Now I am wondering if this happens with Kohler, Delta, or Brizo, etc products?
Moen 1" chrome extension: https://www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Handle-Extension-Kit-96945/202998731Does omen make anything similar? Where can I purchase this trim kit? We're having this same issue after replacing fiberglass surround with tile
I usually always dryfit my trim to see how its going look when finished. Specially with moen, not so much the delta roughView attachment 54199 View attachment 54200
I have learned a lot from all the pros on this site and I think I might be able to finally contribute something back. I just installed a Moentrol Valve and I am getting ready to trim out the shower. Anyhow, I had read this thread a while ago and I tried to take precautions on how far back I would need to install the valve. Before the installation, I had my 3 variables identified:
1. Where to install the valve... Documentation wasn't helpful.
2. Wall assembly (tile) defined. In my case, a 3/8" tile PLUS a 1/2" Kerdi board substrate.
3. Trim package (design and color and... I bought it so it was in my hand)
Ok, now I had all the pieces more or less figured out. Now I started the install. I decided to keep the plaster ground about 7/8" from the face of my studs. If I added 1/4" to the 7/8", I would get around 1 1/8" which would basically be equal to the 3/8" tile plus the substrate plus the thinset (1/8"). The next thing I did was assemble and loosely install the trim package (without the tile in place). This step was more or less the recommendation of Jim D (jadnashua)... Essentially, mock it up. The main issue of course is that one would install the valve and trim but NOT be able to shut off the water because the handle would bottom out on the escutcheon. So during the mockup, I definitely made sure that the trim handle would absolutely shut off the valve (by pushing it all the way in) and not bottom out. The other thing I want to mention is that I chose a dark (oil rubbed bronze) finish and that definitely makes the assembly look better. Here are a couple pictures. One is the gap I'll get (where the escutcheon will land) and the other is what the valve looks like in the "off" position (pushed in). I hope this helps... Like I said, I took a lot of the recommendations here and hopefully I'll get a good result.
I also find great information and tips here. I'm glad you solved your issuesMoen 82496
My plumber just replaced an old Delta single handle shower/tub fixture and installed a Moen 82496bn. I chose this Moen because it had a spout that didn't protrude too much and a smaller shower head. The handle sticks out about 3.75 inches+ from the finished wall ( the gap between the handle cover and the wall plate is about 1 1/4 inch. It is not aesthetically pleasing at all, but I have an older house and I'm only willing to do repairs without remodeling or tearing out walls. The plumber and I didn't want to break the tile and open the wall beyond the existing 6 inch diameter opening. The wall tiles are not thick but the mudded wall behind it is about 1 inch thick. Is there any adjustment that can be made to reduce the gap? Thanks to everyone for all the information. Jim's link to the Moen specification website was very helpful as well as Terry's information on Moen's tolerance for installation.
As long as you are within the min/max in the instructions, the trim will fit. SO, put it where you want, but if you get it too deep in the wall if you didn't figure your finished wall thickness properly, you'll lose that layout, and not every valve has an extension kit for it.
The min/max is just an indication that it will fit, not necessarily that you'll prefer that location. That's why it is important to mock it up. You don't want your fingers getting jammed, or the handle rubbing on something, or the screws not long enough to attach the trim...those are the factors for the min/max, not aesthetics.