Cracked PVC 90 undergound

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Daryle Lewis

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Hello all, I am needing some advice. First let say I am very familiar with plumbing. Grew up doing it with my dad. However, I fortunately do no have to make many repairs, but today is the first of this kind for me. My fiance came outside her house and water was bubbling up out of the ground. After 30min of digging the most heavy/saturated clay I've ever dug I find the for NO apparent reason the 90 of her 1" pvc waterline had split at the seam. The problem I have is it is 3ft away from where it goes into the foundation on 1 side the elbow and 4 feet from where it goes under the driveway on the other side. So needless to say I have no flex at all in either pipe. I really don't want to do the 90 up, 90 over, 90 down method unless I have to and I really don't like the thoughts of using a compression fitting underground. Am I stuck with only those 2 options? Any adivse you guys could give would be great! Thanks, Daryle
 

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Reach4

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The triple 90 still gives some added flex for thermal expansion too. Maybe consider it an upgrade from the original install. Use some sand around the new pipe, and you could make things a bit more flexible.

Schedule 80 PVC couplings would be stronger and compatible, although that seem unnecessary.
 
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Daryle Lewis

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Thanks for the replys guys! So I guess I will just go with the 90 method. At least I know that will work instead of (like Terry said) struggling with it for and hour and end up doing the 90 method anyway! I just didn't want to do that to later find out there some "magic coupling" out there that would keep it all horizontal AND be easier.
 

Daryle Lewis

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On that note I am going to ask a very stupid question, only because I have never worked with sch 80 before. If I did replace this section with 80, is there anything that would be done differently? Can 80 be cut with the ratcheting cutters? Is it completely compatible with sch40 size wise? Sorry, probably dumb questions, but just want to make sure as I have never had any experience with 80 aside from replacing galvanized with it in my well. Thanks again!
 

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The OD of schedule 80 pipe and inside of sockets is the same as with schedule 40. The inside of schedule 80 pipe is slightly smaller due to increased wall thickness. You could use the 80 fittings with 40 pipe.

Regarding cutters, I imagine that varies with the cutter. I would be cutting the short pieces with a table or miter saw for easier measurements and square ends, because I am less practiced. I would think a ratchet cutter would be less square, no? I would cut the existing pipe with the ratchet cutter due to accessibility.
 
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Jadnashua

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Make sure your PVC pipe is rated for pressure and not as DVW pipe. FWIW, every extra 90 you put in there, you increase internal friction. Static supply pressure won't change, but dynamic (while using water) will.

Was there any obvious reason why it split? You don't want it to happen again! TN may not have a deep frost line, but you should find out what yours is, and ensure that the line is deep enough so that does not become an issue, especially when throwing in a loop. FWIW, clay is not all that forgiving, and swells and shrinks with moisture content through the seasons. That movement can be problematic.
 
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