Valveman
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  • Hi.
    I have the CSV 125 1 at 60 psi.

    I have a Grundfos 3/4 HP 10 Sqe 7. 240 at 120 feet.
    Static water at 75 feet.

    Pressure sw. is 50 to 70 psi

    Can you tell me pls the max pressure the pump can build before the CSV.

    The piping before the csv is 20 yr old poly.
    Not sure what type or condition.

    Eyron
    So let’s break this down so my engineering mind can understand it. Let’s say I have the 40 gal tank which holds 10 gal of water and I use 1 gallon of water every hour for 10 hours. The pump will run once right? Maybe twice depending the draw down. Now let’s say I have my PK1A setup and use the same water. My pump will cycle 10 times.
    I’m not sure I understand how, in the following case, a CSV reduces the number of cycles. If I had a 40 gallon pressure tank (maybe 20 gallon water capacity), and I drew water say 5 times at 4 gallons each time, the pump would run once. However, with a CSV and the small PK1A which I have, if I drew water 5 times at 4 gallons each time, the pump would run 5 times.
    Valveman
    Valveman
    First a 40 gallon tank only holds 10 gallons of water. And yes it is counter intuitive, but the CSV with a small tank will cycle the same number of times per day as a system without a CSV and a much larger tank.
    Valveman
    Valveman
    The difference is the CSV doesn't let the pump cycle for long term uses but does cycle for short uses. Without a CSV it is the other way around, and the more long term uses you have the more cycles the CSV saves.
    brass pressure relief valve on my well head started pumping water out it last night. I have heat tapes on all the piping plus insulation & covered as well. I have a storage tank between the well pump and well house where the pressure tank, pump and pressure switch is. Can’t get water to go into tank. Nothing frozen I can see
    I just installed a Scala2 pressure pump to boost my (closed system) municipal water system pressure.It comes in at around 30 pounds and I boosted it to 55psi.The pump cycles constantly and after showers or running my irrigation system it lights up the leak light.Will a CSV stop this problem and keep the leak light from coming on?If so,which CSV should I get? Thanks for any info you can give me on this.
    Only two years old it should come right off. But there is always a chance of something going wrong when you start working on things.
    Thank you. Any chance of stripping the threads or part of it breaking in the tank during the repair?
    Hello. I am female and pipe-challenged. I have a hairline crack around the ball of the brass on-off stem of the drain valve on my 2 year-old AO Smith electric water heater. It is not dripping but wet to the touch with mild corrosion. Rather than go through the costly labor of valve replacement, could the corrosion be sanded away and epoxy carefully pushed into the crack? Thanks
    Valveman
    Valveman
    That probably won't hold. I am afraid you are going to need a new valve.
    I've been unable to post anything. I'm wondering if valve guy banned me for disagreeing with his cycle stop sales pitch. I never said they were crap, I said I had a few in my trash. Cycle stops do work but the best ones are built in Illinois
    Valveman
    Valveman
    Nope wasn't me. And I don't think you have been banned or you wouldn't be able to post here either. I see your posting now, so maybe you figured it out? Who in Illinois makes a CSV?
    PumpMd
    PumpMd
    You were not banned, believe me I know what happens! Maybe, he's talking about a different brand of a constant pressure valve because that has "Sue" writing all over that.
    Valveman
    Valveman
    Even the companies that copy me call their valves a "CSV valve". We have been the leaders in constant pressure for so long CSV has become kind of a generic term.
    I have excavated the run of pipe to the house and have noted no obvious issues with the plastic pipe. Strangely, the well no longer seems to be losing prime, at least in 20 minutes as it has been doing, consistent with my having successfully tested everything prior to burying things initially. I am guessing there is a leak, created or worsened when the pipe is buried. Do you have any insights or suggested next steps?
    I should mention that the pump loses its prime within 15-20 minutes and the pump pulls water from the hot water tank when its prime has been lost, prior to sputtering, losing the stream altogether and finally re-priming. The latter has me puzzled since the water heater is on the pressure side and it doesn't make sense that it should be back-flowing into the pump under any circumstance, should it?
    Valveman
    Valveman
    When you lose prime, if water is flowing backwards it can come out of the water heater as well. But I would think you would need to open a faucet or have a leak in the house to let air in for the water heater to drain backwards. It looks as though it is certain that water is leaking backwards. Finding where it is going is just a process of elimination.
    Valveman, I still have yet to receive a response other than yours regarding my sandpoint well saga. I am at a crossroad right now as to dig up the line from the well pipe to the house or pull the well pipe up. Do you have a feeling for the success of one versus the other? Note that I have checked both ends of the plastic pipe and fittings, so I would just disconnect it and replace it for the second time.
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