Pressure tank tee downsized?? is that common??

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Richfromny

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I could use an expert's help. My Well-X-Trol (WX-251) is fine, but the drain on the tank tee is leaking, (and the packing nut is tightened all the way in). I was going to replace just the drain on the tank tee, but all of the plumbing is corroded, and I figured as long as I was going to drain everything down, I would replace it all (except for the tank).
According to the manufacturer, the WX 201 has a 1-1/4" female pipe threaded elbow, so I purchased the 1-1/4 inch version of the tank tee, and all of the accompanying parts are 1-1/4 inch, including the check valve I purchased. I have not done anything yet, except compare the parts that I received-and they appear much larger than what is plumbed right now. The feed out of the tee is 1 inch, which feeds into my water softener and house.
I will know for sure when I drain the tank and cut the copper and flip the tank. If I see a reducer from the tank to the tee, I will know they went down to 1 inch. I am not in the business so It's difficult for me to easily tell whether the tee/check valve etc are 1" or 1-1/4".
My question is this: I would like to know before I start whether I should return everything I bought at 1-1/4 and use 1" (which I think is there now). Is there any benefit to using 1-1/4 since the main to my house after the tank is only 1"? (note, the poly pipe through my foundation is 1").
I would basically be coming into the house at 1', converting to 1-1/4 to go into and out of the WX-201, and then reducing back to 1" after the tank. Seems silly.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
 
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Richfromny

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Did you look closely at the tank Tee? They often have a larger male thread and a smaller female thread on the same end so you don't have to do everything with 1-1/4" fittings.
Yes, the tee that is in place used the outer (larger) threads for the fittings, and those are still smaller than what I purchased. The tee I have does in fact have internal threads that are 1 inch, but that would still be down-sizing compared to the 1-1/4 on the tank. I could definitely make what I have work, Im just not sure it is worth the extra cost and I am not sure it is necessary. Thanks for your post
 

Reach4

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WX-205 and larger have 1.25 connection.
WX-201, and WX-203 and smaller have 1 inch NTP, and need the 1 inch tank tees, which typically have 1" MPT and 3/4" FPT connections.

You need a bigger tank, or a smaller tank tee.
 
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Richfromny

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WX-205 and larger have 1.25 connection.
WX-201, and WX-203 and smaller have 1 inch NTP, and need the 1 inch tank tees, which typically have 1" MPT and 3/4" FPT connections.

You need a bigger tank, or a smaller tank tee.
Oops. What a dope I am. It’s the wx 251, 62 gallon, not the 201 I originally wrote. I did check the specs first, it’s 1.25. Sorry, I’m gonna change the initial post, but thanks for keeping me honest.
 

Reach4

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Yes, the tee that is in place used the outer (larger) threads for the fittings, and those are still smaller than what I purchased. The tee I have does in fact have internal threads that are 1 inch, but that would still be down-sizing compared to the 1-1/4 on the tank. I could definitely make what I have work, Im just not sure it is worth the extra cost and I am not sure it is necessary.
You want a minimum- resistance connection between the pressure switch and pressure tank. That is accomplished, even tho you are using 1 inch pipe in and out. However if you are really wanting to connect to a 1-1/4 inch pipe, use a 1-1/4 coupling.
 

Richfromny

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You want a minimum- resistance connection between the pressure switch and pressure tank. That is accomplished, even tho you are using 1 inch pipe in and out. However if you are really wanting to connect to a 1-1/4 inch pipe, use a 1-1/4 coupling.
Thanks. No, im not looking to change the 1 inch in and out of the tee, just whether the downsized tee from the 1-1/4 tank was acceptable and if when i redo the tee, i go back to 1-1/4.

Thanks
 

Richfromny

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BTW, why is there a check valve at the Tee? It is illegal is some states.
Really??? I was just replacing what was there. The poly comes into my basement, makes a 90, and goes into a check valve attached to the inlet of the tank tee. Im in NY.
 

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LLigetfa

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I don't know what the codes are in NY, but here's a bit of light reading on the topic. Even if code required it, I would install it with the innards removed to fool the inspector.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/submersible-pumps-and-multiple-check-valves.26301/

In the above article, Cary said "These check valves actually work better if they handle the entire load by themselves." which is very true. The more pressure exerted against it, the better it seals. I have a grundfos pump with no additional check valves. I do have a ball valve at the tank inlet so that I can service the micronizer without draining the tank and I found that if I close that ball valve, the pressure in the line will drop and the micronizer will start to suck air so the absence of pressure is causing the check valve in the pump to leak or I have a leak elsewhere. If it is a leak outside the well casing, I will have to dig down 8 feet to get to it.

I had a former boss that had a leak between the well and the house but it went unnoticed until the leak grew so large that he had poor pressure and the pump would never shut off. The leak had gone on for months and his electricity bills were getting bigger each month until they doubled.

If you are concerned that there might be a leak that the check valve is masking, you could remove the innards and install the body only. That gives you a "quick fix" where you could put back the innards until you get to the root of the problem and do a proper fix.
 

Richfromny

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There has to be someone out there that does these installs on a regular basis. Still didn’t get an answer either way.......is it common or in any way a problem that someone reduced the 1-1/4 outlet from my pressure tank down to 1” before the tank tee?
It’s been working fine for years. Just want to know if it is done occasionally would you recommend a new set up be plumbed at 1-1/4 until AFTER the tee.
Thanks
 

LLigetfa

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If the line coming in is 1" and the pressure switch installed on the Tee, there is no problem to reduce the tank inlet to 1". The problem usually is with the inlet getting constricted over time from rust/hard water which then can cause the switch to pulse. Having an 1-1/4" Tee gives you a safety margin provided the tank inlet is also 1-1/4". There is no point or need to up-size beyond the inlet and/or outlet since the 1" runs are probably long.
 

Richfromny

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You have to reduce 1 1/4' down to 1" when the tank has a 1" opening. Yes it is very common.
Thanks but my situation is exactly opposite. The tank opening is 1-1/4. My house plumbing is 1", as is the poly from the well. Someone came out of the tank (1-1/4) and used a reducing coupling down to 1" . Then the tee is 1".

Does that change your assessment? By the way, thanks for your expertise.
 

Valveman

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Thanks but my situation is exactly opposite. The tank opening is 1-1/4. My house plumbing is 1", as is the poly from the well. Someone came out of the tank (1-1/4) and used a reducing coupling down to 1" . Then the tee is 1".

Does that change your assessment? By the way, thanks for your expertise.

Also very common.
 
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