Pipe Size From Well Head to Water Softener

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1971RT

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While we have never had great water flow in our house, it is now slowly degrading to a point where it needs to be addressed. Consequently, I am having the plumbing from my well head to my water softener replaced. It is a very old set up (50+ years). Currently, in the well pit, there is 1 inch PE tubing run from the well pump to 1 inch galvanized fittings which create a makeshift pressure tank Tee (1 inch in, 1 inch out). The output from the pressure tank is connected to a 1 inch galvanized pipe that runs about 14 feet to get into my basement. Once inside the house, the galvanized transitions to 3/4 inch copper. This copper runs through a whole house filter, then a Kinetico iron filter, then the Kinetico water softener, before branching to supply all of the fixtures in the house.

I am tired of crawling into the well pit to make repairs (Pressure switch three times, tank once). The location of the pressure tank is going to be moved into the basement, and the size of tank is going to be increased to something more appropriate for the number of fixtures in the house. All piping from the pressure tank to the water softener is going to be increased to 1 inch copper.

I realize that the majority of the pressure/flow issues we have been experiencing are likely caused by constriction in a 50+ year old galvanized supply line to the house, however, the fitting on the bottom of the new, larger tank is 11/4 inch. Is there anything to be gained by increasing the pipe size from the well head to the pressure tank (including the Tee) to 11/4 inch, or should I just have them use a 11/4 to 1 inch bushing on the well tank and do everything in 1 inch pipe?
 
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Valveman

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Well, actually increasing the tank size will cause the pressure to stay low for longer. The 1" poly coming in should be large enough. But yes, the old galvanized pipe is causing a restriction. Probably not as much as all the filters and softeners. But added together I can see why shower pressure is dismal. With a 40/60 switch and a big tank, the pressure will linger low and close to 40 for a long time before the pump comes on. Once the pump starts and the tank fills to 60, there will be 33% more pressure for a short time until the tank gets low and pressure lingers close to 40 for a while. With a big tank you get an average of 50 PSI, but pressure will be lower than 50 most of the time.

With filters and softeners I use a 50/70 switch setting. If the house is also more than one story, I up that to 60/80. Then using a small pressure tank and a Cycle Stop Valve to deliver strong constant 60 or 70 PSI respectively, there is no longer any need for soap in the shower. Lol.

See if you can return the large tank and get a PK1A set for 50/70/60C with a 4.5 gallon size tank, or 20 gal tank at most, the shower will be as strong as a car wash wand. :)

CSV1A with 20 gallon tank cross.png

Sub Well with PK1A.png
 
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