I successfully replaced a stop valve!

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Flapper

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After seeing Terry's advice to always replace corrugated supply lines, and the info about sleeve pullers, I thought I'd replace the one on the downstairs toilet where I replaced the fill valve but not the supply line. It wasn't leaking and it worked fine so I took a good look at it. I discovered that if I push against the tube next to the nut & seal, water sprays out, so I thought, "Hell yeah I'm replacing this!"

Here's the old supply & valve:

corrugated-shutoff-terrylove-4.jpg


At the store I did a quick look on how to replace a stop valve but I didn't really find what I was looking for, but I did find that the sleeve can be removed without a sleeve puller. I got a sleeve puller anyway just in case.

After removing the valve, first I tried just pulling at it but it wouldn't budge, so second I tried using the sleeve puller but there was a problem. The insert thing that goes into the pipe, didn't fit into the pex pipe with the ferrule. So lastly I removed it by cutting it with a hacksaw until it broke.

I put the new one on and after tightening it, it still was able to rotate.

There were no leaks when I turned the water back on! Even with the water on, I was still able to rotate the valve. Are compression-fitting valves supposed to be able to rotate when attached? The old one didn't.

I used a PEX supply line to connect to the toilet because they were on sale for 27¢. :D

To connect the line to the toilet valve, I used the old nut from the corrugated line, just removed the seal and washer.

After trying to figure out where to cut it and how to orientate it, I decided instead to loop around and connect to the valve from below (no cutting needed). I rotated the valve 180˚ with the water pressure on :D

After turning it on, there was a little tiny bit of leaking at the connection to the valve but after a few tightenings it was stopped.

Everything's hunky-dory now! :D

Pics:

The finished product :D :

push-connect-01.jpg



push-connect-02.jpg



How is the job? Is the installation good?
For the PEX to valve connection, I used the plastic sleeve supplied with the tube, and the valve's nut. The valve came with a brass sleeve which I think is for copper lines, but it can be used for PEX lines too, but the PEX needs an insert, right? What happens if I connect the PEX using the brass sleeve without an insert? The plastic sleeve seems to work the same as a brass sleeve but it doesn't use an insert.
Are compression fittings supposed to be able to rotate even with the water pressure on?
What do you do if you cut your stub-out too short?
(may have more questions that I can't think of right now)

Thanks to Terry for suggesting to replace corrugated lines and for telling that crimp sleeves can be removed. This is my second stop valve replacement and this time it came out well. The first time I replaced a stop valve (for the upstairs toilet) it didn't come out well. First I tried using a new compression valve with the old nut and sleeve (I think we did that with the backyard spigot and it worked fine) but it leaked so I had to use my first plan (the push-fit valve).
I did not know that the sleeve could be removed, I thought it was permanently attached, so I cut it off, and ended up with a shorter stub-out. I used a push-fit valve. The pipe was not cut very squarely and it was kinda rough from the old nut and flange thing and stuff, so I was worried it would leak. Luckily it didn't leak, but unfortunately the flange thing didn't fit.
 
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hj

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1. I do not think you used the 'stiffener" sleeve that goes into the PEX before you install the valve
2. I would NEVER trust a compression joint that rotates after being tightened
3. That 27 cent supply line is worth just that much, and I would never use one.
 

Flapper

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1. I do not think you used the 'stiffener" sleeve that goes into the PEX before you install the valve
I used the same insert that was used for the previous valve.

2. I would NEVER trust a compression joint that rotates after being tightened
You mean it's not supposed to be able to rotate? Why is my valve able to rotate?? :confused:

3. That 27 cent supply line is worth just that much, and I would never use one.
I think the 27¢ is closer to their value than their regular $2.50 or whatever; why wouldn't you use them?
 

Reach4

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You mean it's not supposed to be able to rotate? Why is my valve able to rotate?? :confused:
Usually with a compression fitting there is a hex nut that you rotate with one wrench while you hold the valve body with another.

I don't see a hex nut in your photo.

angle_stop.jpg


https://www.keeneymfg.com/catalogs/KeeneyWaterSupply.pdf seems to show your valve at the top of page 1, but I don't see it represented in the line drawings.

img_4.JPG
 
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Flapper

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Usually with a compression fitting there is a hex nut that you rotate with one wrench while you hold the valve body with another.

I don't see a hex nut in your photo.
https://www.keeneymfg.com/catalogs/KeeneyWaterSupply.pdf seems to show your valve at the top of page 1, but I don't see it represented in the line drawings.
No the last image in my post is the image of my first valve replacement; that valve is a push-fit valve. The second valve replacement, which this thread is about, is in picture 2 & 3:

push-connect-01.jpg


push-connect-02.jpg


This valve is a compression valve with the nut and sleeve. I can rotate this valve even with the pressure on.
 

Flapper

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Is it normal to be able to rotate a compression fitting even with the water pressure on?
 

Flapper

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What #2, #4, and #7 said is valid.

Not only did you screw up the install, but you used piss-poor materials.

Point the valve UPWARDS so the supply line is straight to the toilet. I have no idea why you pointed it downwards, only to bend it 180 back up.

I would never use such low quality materials for clients, I want them calling me back for a new job, not to re-repair a previous one.

Dahlvalve does make Sharkbite/compression/sweat ball valves, depending on how you choose to handle this. By the way, they don't cost $0.27 nor $2.50, try a lot more, and for a reason. Dahlvalve isn't for cheapskates.

Google is your friend.
 

Flapper

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Not only did you screw up the install, but you used piss-poor materials.
Please elaborate how I "screwed up the install".

Point the valve UPWARDS so the supply line is straight to the toilet. I have no idea why you pointed it downwards, only to bend it 180 back up.
Why must it be upwards? If you have actually read my post, you would know why I pointed it downward. It was hard to determine how to route and where to cut the PEX line to have to go straight to the valve, so instead of cutting it and risking messing up, I choose to use the full length and just loop around.
 

Flapper

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I would never use such low quality materials for clients, I want them calling me back for a new job, not to re-repair a previous one.
I am not a professional.

Dahlvalve does make Sharkbite/compression/sweat ball valves, depending on how you choose to handle this. By the way, they don't cost $0.27 nor $2.50, try a lot more, and for a reason. Dahlvalve isn't for cheapskates.
It's already been "handled".
 
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Never heard of a drip loop?;)
Yes, required when using stainless braided supply lines that cannot be cut. In fact, it is normal practice to obtain stainless braided supply lines that are really longer than needed, so they can be looped without stress.

When using PVC or chrome-copper supply lines, the installer is expected to cut to desired length. Neither mentioned can withstand severe stress from over-bending, which is pictured here.
 

Flapper

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When using PVC or chrome-copper supply lines, the installer is expected to cut to desired length. Neither mentioned can withstand severe stress from over-bending.
You mean PEX supply lines, not PVC; PVC supply lines are just like braided lines and they cannot be cut.
Is my PEX line over-bent?
 
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