distressed
Member
So the 1/2 inch inlet is the inner diameter?
Can you suggest escutcheons? A quick search doesnt show any at the local hardware stores.
How to replace with this with a stop valve
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Can you suggest escutcheons? A quick search doesnt show any at the local hardware stores.
Your proposed valve is straight.
I cannot picture how a deep socket would help pull a ferrule. Take a look through this thread: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....off-valves-locked-up-solid-need-advice.90196/
Since you seem to have a lot of pipe between the wall and the existing valve, cutting that pipe could make sense. And again, it is possible that you can leave the current ferrule and nut in place, thought the nut will not look as pretty.
https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/mini-ball-valves.php can maybe let you see some other alternatives. If you put plastic tubing into a metal compression valve, you need an insert and a plastic ferrule. So the push-in connection is certainly simpler.
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distressed
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So the 1/2 inch is the inner diameter? The copper pipes measure 5/8 inches OD.
would this work as Escutcheon?
Yes. https://keeneymfg.com/system/cad_drawings/1342/original/K20112.pdf makes that clear. "(0.5-in-ID)" seemed to be a strange way to say it. "1/2 inch copper pipe" has an actual ID that is bigger than 0.5 inch.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
Plumbers measure copper by i.d.
Refrigeration measure by o.d. except 1/4" and 3/8" plumbers and refrigeration use the same sizing
Refrigeration tubing comes in 1/2" o.d. 5/8" o.d. 3/4" o.d. 7/8" o.d. 1 1/8 o.d.
Refrigeration either hard or soft tubing is L copper printing on tubing ACR and is clean, dry and plugged.
John Gayewski
In the Trades
Do you have enough pipe to cut and start over? You only need about an inch.
What does plugged mean in this context?
distressed
Member
Got it. Went to Lowes to pick up the stuff. An associate told me that the stop valve you suggested would not fit on a pipe with outer diameter of 0.62 inches. Went back in with my caliper and measured the 1/2 inch pipe and OD was 0.62 in Lowes as well.
Purchased the stuff and now ready to install it this evening. Got the Ferrule puller as well as Reamer for cleaning the pipe surfaces, will be opened if needed.
distressed
Member
I have 1.5 inches between the nut and the wall. Hope that I dont have to get into cutting the pipe. However, if I have to, then what is the correct tool for a clean cut?
Also how do I add the escutcheon? The area around the pipe has been sealed with caulk/foam or whatever.
Fine blade hacksaw, or cutoff wheel on an angle grinder. If you can undo the existing nut, and push it toward the wall, you can cut closer to the ferrule.
Cut the foam/caulk close to the wall to clear the escutcheon.
distressed
Member
The photo shows the cold line. There is a weird contraption on the hot line. A tee connection copper pipe is soldered to the pipe coming out from the wall. Two stop valves have been soldered onto the tee pipe structure, one goes to dishwasher and the other to the faucet. Want to cut this stuff out and replace it with this stop valve.
Do I need a de-burring tool if I do end up doing this as well?
BTW, a helpful tip. Post #13 in this thread was very important and you should emphasize it to all noobies like me.
Fitter30
Well-Known Member
distressed
Member
Before I did the one in the kitchen I replaced one under the bathroom sink. Ran into a few hurdles
- Had to view Youtube video on using the compression sleeve removal. Instructions on the package were horrendous
- P-trap was in the way of tool. Had to remove it.
- compression sleeve got stuck on the removal tool
- While Youtube videos talk about half a turn with wrenches after hand tightening, I had to go more than 1.5 turns before it started biting on the copper pipe.
- turned water supply back on and had a small leak, a drop every 20-25 seconds. Tightened the nut a bit more and left it for overnight observation with a pan underneath.
A couple of questions -
1) How do I remove the ferrule from the tool bit? Same as what is shown @2.46 in this video
2) Do I use telfon tape on the 3/8 inch side?
Thanks for all the guidance and tolerating my ignorance and silly questions.
- Had to view Youtube video on using the compression sleeve removal. Instructions on the package were horrendous
- P-trap was in the way of tool. Had to remove it.
- compression sleeve got stuck on the removal tool
- While Youtube videos talk about half a turn with wrenches after hand tightening, I had to go more than 1.5 turns before it started biting on the copper pipe.
- turned water supply back on and had a small leak, a drop every 20-25 seconds. Tightened the nut a bit more and left it for overnight observation with a pan underneath.
A couple of questions -
1) How do I remove the ferrule from the tool bit? Same as what is shown @2.46 in this video
2) Do I use telfon tape on the 3/8 inch side?
Thanks for all the guidance and tolerating my ignorance and silly questions.
No tape! Do use pipe dope or silicone grease or olive oil on the ferrule and threads. It makes the wrenching easier. People usually worry too much about crushing the pipe. If you have long wrenches, you maybe could, but with your 5 or 6 inch long wrenches in the somewhat awkward access under a lavatory, I think that is unlikely.
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distressed
Member
The ferrule I removed yesterday is stuck on the tool rendering it useless further jobs and it not budging. Any ideas on how to remove it and keep it from happening in future?
Can you put a 1/2 inch open end wrench above the ferrule, and tap the wrench?
Is the brass part of the tool screwed as far down as it goes? Maybe you could raise the brass, put a stack of open end wrenches in place, screw to move the brass down pushing on the wrenches. Maybe the top and bottom wrenches would be 1/2 inch, and some middle ones could be bigger.
Is the brass part of the tool screwed as far down as it goes? Maybe you could raise the brass, put a stack of open end wrenches in place, screw to move the brass down pushing on the wrenches. Maybe the top and bottom wrenches would be 1/2 inch, and some middle ones could be bigger.
Another idea.
Make a split tube, or maybe one can be bought. Screw the brass high. Put the split tube above the ferrule, and hold with a curved-jaw ViceGrip. Screw the brass down, which shoves the ferrule off. For a single use, buying a new tool is cheaper/easier. Maybe the next tool would be a different design.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176195871529?_skw=split+collar&itmmeta=01JD82MDPR6G8P0Y0CSQ2CZ3RX offers 5/8 ID split collars. Four for $18. Other quantities available.
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distressed
Member
Filed it off using the edge of the file. Once I was through the ferrule, it just popped off.
Doing the upstairs bathroom, The ferrule removal tool just kept on spinning, with the ferrule just at the edge of the copper pipe. Same treatment filed it off.
I have problem with upstairs bathroom. The 1/2 pipe has been extended with a small extension. The ID of the extension is 0.49 inches but the OD is o.56 inches, substantially less than 0.61/0.62 for the original pipe. The push-in valve just popped off when I turned the water supply on. I had a bucket to catch the water.
What are my options? A compression type valve? Will it hold? The original was a compression style valve.
Doing the upstairs bathroom, The ferrule removal tool just kept on spinning, with the ferrule just at the edge of the copper pipe. Same treatment filed it off.
I have problem with upstairs bathroom. The 1/2 pipe has been extended with a small extension. The ID of the extension is 0.49 inches but the OD is o.56 inches, substantially less than 0.61/0.62 for the original pipe. The push-in valve just popped off when I turned the water supply on. I had a bucket to catch the water.
What are my options? A compression type valve? Will it hold? The original was a compression style valve.
How about a photo of this extension, and the pipe to the wall?
Solder has some gap filling ability.
distressed
Member
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