It's the housing that sees the pressure. The filter element does not see that pressure across it; it only sees the differential, which would be low.Do you think 200 PSI would survive? Any filters you’ve used for this application in the past?
I would put a pressure gauges around the element to see if it is clogging at all.
I haven’t checked the static level since the well was drilled, but we did it and our driller did it with us and we got the same number.Again, if you are sure about the static level, the filter will only see 140 PSI.
You could momentarily deadhead the pump into a 200 psi pressure gauge, if you can undo connections easily enough. That should give a worst case pressure.I haven’t checked the static level since the well was drilled, but we did it and our driller did it with us and we got the same number.
I would think 2 seconds, but 5 should give some margin and time for the gauge to settle. Looks like there is plenty of time margin both ways, to me.Fair enough! It does make sense that it's less strain than pushing 10gpm 400' up. I take it this is a wise thing to do now before it's all plumbed to know the maximum PSI the system can put out? Is 60 seconds how long it will take to build that pressure or will say 30 seconds work?
On another note, what wire/conduit is generally run from the well house sub-panel=>pressure switch=>pump controller? Looks like a lot of folks just run UF cable, others run what I assume is THWN in FMC/liquidtight conduit. I also have plenty of flat 8awg well wire left, but I don't think it will fit in the 1/2 pressure switch knockout.
This is awkward, but...
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