OK, good sleuthing! The high current suggests locked rotor followed by thermal trip.
Hmmm, but what would be locking the rotor up tat much that 40 amps could break it free, but a few seconds later it works normal???
BRB... have to vacuum/ clean for company tonight, the wife is hard at work
The 40 amps will not break the motor free. Your breaker feeding your pump must be over sized or would need reset. What size is your breaker ?
If you are using a auto-range meter, check the scale that it is on, when you think that you are reading 40 amps.
A Cycle Stop Valve may have let your pump down, and maybe should not be used on that brand and model of pump, If it is truly smoked and drawing 40 amps at 230V.
A 40 Amp reading may be a short between the headset, or wiring.
The pump is on 2, 20 amp breakers.
The CSV was on before the pump was installed. Didn't realize that certain pumps should be used with them, will have to talk to them and see what they recommend, if thats the case it would be nice if they stated that on their website, wouldn't you think?
I am using a auto range meter, I think I tested it on both the 40 amp and the 400 amp range.
I am not sure why this only happens when there is low pressure , when the pressure is up it seems to work fine.
I am kind of shying away from the wiring, when I drop this new pump in the well , we made sure that the wire was secured well. probably over did it if anything.
You still haven't determined if the pump is running the second the pressure switch closes.
. . .
If the amps dopn't immediatly come up to normal, the pump is not started.
I believe it has been demonstrated that the amps go very high and don't come DOWN to normal, suggesting a locked rotor.
There is debate as to the validity of the measurements and why it does not trip the breaker. Breakers are not fast acting and can absorb high start current above their rating. I believe the thermal protection in the pump opens before the breaker has time to react.
DonL is off in left field to say that a pump has to be compatible with a CSV or to suggest a faulty CSV. Even if the CSV were to completely close, it would not prevent the pump from starting. Starting against a closed valve would lower the current draw, not increase it. The current draw is commensurate with GPM moved. A fully open CSV will cause the pump to draw more current but no more than if there was no CSV at all.
I do have 1 question, this has a valve built into the pump, so after reading here I am thinking that would be the only check valve I need ??? Seems to be a hot topic.
This is awkward, but...
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