Another Broken toilet flange thread!
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Sorry for the delay. Been busy. Went to the big box stores and could only find this. One is the closet flange which looks like its 4x3, next is the street elbow, and the last one I know is wrong. I wanted to use a 4" pipe going into the waste line just so that there are no clogs. Could I use the one with the street elbow? The thing is that the flange is goes on the outside instead of sitting on the inside.
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MACPLUMB
In the Trades
That is what that 4"x3" elbow is for making a closet flange !
found an old thread on what HJ said:
"If something will go through the 2", or so, passage of the toilet, it will not have a problem with the 3" closet bend. You either have a toilet problem, or a drain line problem, but not a closet bend problem. "
guess that answers my question!
"If something will go through the 2", or so, passage of the toilet, it will not have a problem with the 3" closet bend. You either have a toilet problem, or a drain line problem, but not a closet bend problem. "
guess that answers my question!
Do you even have enough vertical for your 4" 90?
That's why I use the 4x3 spigot closet bend.
The trapway on a toilet is 2"
Nothing ever clogs in a 3" pipe unless the tile guy used your toilet drain for a garbage can, seen that done.
I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.
That's why I use the 4x3 spigot closet bend.
The trapway on a toilet is 2"
Nothing ever clogs in a 3" pipe unless the tile guy used your toilet drain for a garbage can, seen that done.
I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.
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Progress here and questions:
Question #1. Does the donut lip have to be all the way in? Do i have to tap it in with a block?
Question #2. I know that the rough in must be 12 inches for my toilet. Supposedly this is the sheetrock, and tile (might change the tile). I want a bit of 'wiggle' room in case the tile I choose is a bit thicker but not much. Can I have a bit of wiggle room and is this correct?
Question #1. Does the donut lip have to be all the way in? Do i have to tap it in with a block?
Question #2. I know that the rough in must be 12 inches for my toilet. Supposedly this is the sheetrock, and tile (might change the tile). I want a bit of 'wiggle' room in case the tile I choose is a bit thicker but not much. Can I have a bit of wiggle room and is this correct?
Redwood
Master Plumber
The lip on the donut should land against the cast iron, by what I see it looks good. Is it a snug fit both into the cast and on the PVC?
The rough should be 12" from the surface of the finished wall to the center of the flange. The actual need for a fudge factor depends on the toilet you select now and in the future. Some toilets have a fudge factor built into their design while others don't. The Toto Drake for instance has 1 1/8" to play with.
The rough should be 12" from the surface of the finished wall to the center of the flange. The actual need for a fudge factor depends on the toilet you select now and in the future. Some toilets have a fudge factor built into their design while others don't. The Toto Drake for instance has 1 1/8" to play with.
yes, its snug. But I can wiggle the donut out of the cast iron with LOTS of force. I can tap it in just for good measure.
The toilet I purchased was a Toto Promende CST424SFG. Instructions call for 12" rough in. I think actually its a 12.5" rough in when I measured it. I can make it a 13 inch rough in. Hopefully the 1 inch would give me some play. Let me know and I'll glue the PVC in tonight. =)
Thank you again.
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wireless999
New Member
Help with this same issue
Hello folks, this is my first post. I have done the same thing as my closet pipe was lead and ripping up my floor revealed 2 holes in it which would have eventually been a huge issue.
As the picture below I have the same setup but testing the new donut with a PVC pipe attached I see leaks at the bottom of the donut. What can I do about this? Are there any other alternatives? I feel at a loss as I need to get this resolved. Thanks so much.
Hello folks, this is my first post. I have done the same thing as my closet pipe was lead and ripping up my floor revealed 2 holes in it which would have eventually been a huge issue.
As the picture below I have the same setup but testing the new donut with a PVC pipe attached I see leaks at the bottom of the donut. What can I do about this? Are there any other alternatives? I feel at a loss as I need to get this resolved. Thanks so much.
Do you even have enough vertical for your 4" 90?
That's why I use the 4x3 spigot closet bend.
The trapway on a toilet is 2"
Nothing ever clogs in a 3" pipe unless the tile guy used your toilet drain for a garbage can, seen that done.
I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.
Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
4" cast iron hubs are not all the same size. It is likely that you either did not get the inside of the hub clean enough or you need a different sized donut. The I.D. of the hub should be measured and the donut matched from the fernco catalog. Some sizes can only be ordered direct as they are not regular stock.
wireless999
New Member
Follow up
Okay thanks. I did clean the inside out and it does fit even bettr than the pictures of the previous poster. My goes flush and "tight". However even though it's tight when I tested it, some waters out of the bottom.
Is there any other type of gasket or glue/solvent I can use?
Thanks so much for replying.
Okay thanks. I did clean the inside out and it does fit even bettr than the pictures of the previous poster. My goes flush and "tight". However even though it's tight when I tested it, some waters out of the bottom.
Is there any other type of gasket or glue/solvent I can use?
Thanks so much for replying.
Can you show us your setup? The donut and everything? That would help alot.
wireless999
New Member
Will try and get it tomorrow but it's identical to what I posted except miy donut goes flush to the cast iron. Thanks
Ok back at this again. Had some family issues and health issues so I'm back on track and almost done.
Have a few questions though. At first I placed the flange on top of the spigot and it was a nice snug fit. To get it to the floor so I can anchor it, the flange dips foward and leaves a 1/4 or less in the back. But as you can see from the pictures, horizontally, its somewhat ok. This is all dry fitting.
I also read on here that the flange has a tapered fit. So when I place the cement on it should soften things up making it easier for me to push this all the way down.
so here are the questions.
1. I have a piece of wood going under the elbow so the entire trap doesn't flex while pushing this down. This makes things somewhat even but still leaves that 1/4 gap. Should I take it out before glueing it?
2. when priming and putting the cement on, do I have to do the entire end of the toilet flange? or will it be ok for me to push it down into the spigot? Will it dry before pushing it all the way down to get a flush fit to the floor?
Have a few questions though. At first I placed the flange on top of the spigot and it was a nice snug fit. To get it to the floor so I can anchor it, the flange dips foward and leaves a 1/4 or less in the back. But as you can see from the pictures, horizontally, its somewhat ok. This is all dry fitting.
I also read on here that the flange has a tapered fit. So when I place the cement on it should soften things up making it easier for me to push this all the way down.
so here are the questions.
1. I have a piece of wood going under the elbow so the entire trap doesn't flex while pushing this down. This makes things somewhat even but still leaves that 1/4 gap. Should I take it out before glueing it?
2. when priming and putting the cement on, do I have to do the entire end of the toilet flange? or will it be ok for me to push it down into the spigot? Will it dry before pushing it all the way down to get a flush fit to the floor?
lgndu42nv
New Member
I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.
I hate to bump an old thread, but I'm about to do a similar repair job and have one question for you Terry. Do you use any type of glue or caulk between the 4x3 flush brush and the rubber donut? What about between the donut and the CI tee? Thanks
hj
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Who opened this almost 5 year old posting, and why? I am sure the person has got it fixed by now.
lgndu42nv
New Member
hj - I opened this almost 5 year old thread. Why? Because I need to replace a lead closet bend, I googled "how to replace a lead closet bend", found this thread, and it has some good information. Isn't that the point of a forum?? I even said in my post "I hate to bump an old thread......" But shit, I thought bumping an old thread with a specific question would be better than making yet ANOTHER thread on the same topic that has been discussed before. Maybe not. Would you like me to start my own thread? Seems like a waste of time......
Anyways, if there is someone that would actually like to help me rather than bitch, my original question was "Do you use any type of glue or caulk between the 4x3 flush brush and the rubber donut? What about between the donut and the CI tee? Thanks"
Anyways, if there is someone that would actually like to help me rather than bitch, my original question was "Do you use any type of glue or caulk between the 4x3 flush brush and the rubber donut? What about between the donut and the CI tee? Thanks"
