Advice on Flange modification

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AhToilet!

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This what I have. Doesn't say CST but it is a 776. I don't know. I don't see anything about DYNAMAX though.
 

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AhToilet!

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Reach! Good morning.

Alright so gotta say you were right. Posting some photos of what is going on. As you can see it created a pretty good original seal with maybe a little leaking on the top there but nothing on the tile.

Not sure what size that case iron is. Pretty rough regardless and it would take a lot of effort to put in those twist and seals and plus they would be high.

Biggest issues seem to be that the bracket itself bent up with the tank bolts being installed. So I need a more secure way to fasten. I used stainless steel in those anchors because that was what was there and plus the anchors gave it some height.

Any suggestions? Concrete screws with spacers for height? Will concrete screws corrode? The SS held up really well.

It seems what happened with the seal is that I put in a wax ring with a horn and that horn fit exactly in the “void” we have been discussing, but it did get pulled up a little due to the flange bolts bending the bracket. I think I got lucky with this one.

I bought plenty of rings. Should I remove a horn from a new one and insert it in the gap or should I just put it on the flange and “hope” it sets?

Thank you!
 

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AhToilet!

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And thank you Terry for the reply and this whole site! Yes these toilets are great except I did have two defective bowls with trips to the store. But Toto was more than helpful with the issues.
 

Reach4

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These are new pictures? You removed the repair ring, because it was not as strong as it looked, right?
If yes to both, I would consider a Danco HydroSeat with wax beneath. Yes, it has the wax, but you can see the wax seal go in before you drop the toilet. The HydroSeat has screw holes on the legs, and it has holes more interior... use whichever works better for you.

For screws, I would be looking at stainless steel Tapcons. With those, make sure the hole is drilled deeper than the screw point will be, and blow out the debris.

Some use lead anchors. That seems like it would take more skill to get into the right place.
 

AhToilet!

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These are new pictures? You removed the repair ring, because it was not as strong as it looked, right?
If yes to both, I would consider a Danco HydroSeat with wax beneath. Yes, it has the wax, but you can see the wax seal go in before you drop the toilet. The HydroSeat has screw holes on the legs, and it has holes more interior... use whichever works better for you.

For screws, I would be looking at stainless steel Tapcons. With those, make sure the hole is drilled deeper than the screw point will be, and blow out the debris.

Some use lead anchors. That seems like it would take more skill to get into the right place.
Hi Reach.

Yes these are the pics of today. I removed the repair bracket because 1) I didn't screw in one hole where the left toilet bolt goes and it bent up and then 2) the other side also removed itself from the anchor. Plus it was quite corroded.

The stainless steel screws that I installed in 2018 held up really well so I got more of those.

After investigation, whoever installed this fix first drill 1/4" holes in concrete with those plastic anchors and that was it. No epoxy no glue no nothing.

So I went to the store before I talked to you and Ace and Dixieline here in SoCal didn't have any Tapcons larger than 1/4, which my holes are 1/4 so I would need a little bit bigger screw.

Of the six holes of the repair flanges 4 held well. It was just the place where the toilet flange bolt lifted the anchor.

I wasn't sure how to proceed but as usual figured I was overthinking it. I got new anchors, same, and then some epoxy.

Cleaned out holes and did my best to get epoxy in there. Waiting for it to dry and then I'll try mounting the bracket.

If that doesn't work I am interesting in the Hydro Seat option. Seems that it would work I would have to just check holes.

Because the previous wax horn fit precisely into the cast iron flange
would it be better to cut a horn out of wax and insert it or to simply put a horned ring in and let it set.? As you can see in this picture after I removed wax it just by luck set itself in there. I was wondering if I should be more deliberate?
 

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Reach4

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Regarding the holes, I was thinking the existing holes were not going to line up anyway. But if your new device has holes that match up, yes, anchors would be nice.

I was unaware of HydroCap.
 

AhToilet!

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Well its on.

Thanks for your help Jeff and Reach.

I ended up just cleaning the holes, applying epoxy, then anchors and then secured ring. The real test is when I bolted on the toilet. I do believe it failed in the same spot, nut would just never get tight on the left side and I could feel the anchor slowly pulling out.

So not as tight as I want but it works...

I am not worried about a leak. I took a horn out of a ring, took the spare wax and smeared and sealed and pushed the horn tight against the cast iron. Then put a regular ring no horn on the repair flange. No caulk of the void or nothing.

I am not worried about leaks, just know it could be better.
 

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AhToilet!

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And then...!

I found myself at Lowes for something and swung by the hardware aisle just to see what is there Tapcon wise... a 5/16 perhaps.

And then I found this!!!!!! Pic below.

This would have totally worked on at least the holes of the repair bracket at the 9 and 3 o'clock.

Should I pull the working toilet just to do it even more secure......

I don't think so. Live and learn but at least I hope this post helps someone in the future.

Damn sleeve anchors... I knew I had that in my head but never came to realization. You would think both hardware store guys would said, "why don't you use a sleeve anchor"

Thanks
 

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Reach4

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3/16 tapcons are fine with new holes. So where you think your ring needs another hold-down, I am thinking

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tapcon-...-Head-Concrete-Anchors-8-Pack-26130/202097032

Except you would seek out a smaller pack, maybe a single screw.. Use their drill, but not for drilling the steel. Then after drilling the right size and depth into the concrete, expand the hole thru the steel a bit for clearance.
 
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