GregN31
New Member
Hello,
I bought a Fluidmaster Toilet Tank Flush Valve, bolts, and gasket set because my flush valve was leaking. The stem of the overflow tube was cracked and water was leaking down the drain constantly. You could actually move the stemp back and forth it was so loose.
By the way, this is a house built in 1999 that we bought recently and the toilet says "Crane Plumbing" on it.
So, yesterday I attempted to install the new flush valve thinking it would be very easy as I've done this stuff before. Wrong, very wrong.
It came apart fine. I did notice that the installer (I think the previous homeowner) had used caulk on both sides of the spud/sponge gasket and also had used caulk on the tank bolts (there was caulk in the holes of the tank where the bolts go through. I thought that was a bit odd, I didn't think if you did it right you needed any caulk. I spent a good deal of time cleaning up the old caulk to get smooth surfaces. However, there is some residue left so there are some bumpy spots, which may be problematic.
I tried installing the flush valve per directions. Put it on, put the plastic washer on the bottom, hand tightened it and gave it another turn or two with a big wrench. That seems tight. Then I followed the directions. Rubber washer on both tank bolts, put them through tank holes, then put a brass washer and but underneath and tighten (we haven't put tank on base yet). Then put spud/sponge gasket on plastic stem underneath. Fine, pressed it on no problem. Then I put tank on base, put bolts through holes in base. Then I put another rubber washer, brass washer and hex nut on the tank bolts and hand tightened them pretty tight.
Then I turn on the water. Whether I flush or not, I can see with a flashlight in between the tank and base where the tank bolts come through the tank there is a drip coming out from where the brass washer and nut are (between the tank and the base). This continues and pools of water form on the floor.
I've tried lots of things, I've taken it apart and put it back together several times, and no matter what I do both of the tank bolts won't stop leaking.
Heck, I even tried caulk which I didn't think was a good thing to do (seems like I'm masking the problem) and that didn't seem to help.
So, any hints on how to go about this to get it right?
My main concerns:
1. How tight do you tighten those tank bolts (when you have the tank off the base and your just tightening the bolts to the tank? Once I hand tighten them snug, then how far do you go? I kind of wonder if I'm cranking them too tight? Depending on how I have it, I can have the rubber washers in the tank starting to curl up in the corners, leading me to believe I've gone to tight, so I've tried backing it off, to no avail. Whats the rule of thumb?
2. How tight do you need to turn that plastic washer on the underside of the tank where your tightening down the actual flush valve? I've got it pretty tight, don't think its leaking there.
3. Any reason I should have to caulk between the spud gasket and stem of the flush valve or between spud gasket and the hole on the base of the toilet? By the way, the hole on the base of toilet has old caulk residue. I cleaned as best I can, but still its bumpy from the little left over.
4. When I put the rubber washer on the underside of the toilet base, then brass washer and hex nut how far do you need to crank those. I've gone "very hand tight".
I'm thinking either a. there was some issue before and the reason the last person caulked was to hide it and/or b. I'm doing something wrong, most likely I'm cranking the heck out of those tank bolts when maybe it just needs finesse.
Any guidance here? I've tried lots of things and now I have the toilet tank on the floor and no toilet. If I hook it up, it will work, I'll just have the steady drip drip and pools on the floor on either side of the toilet from around those tank bolts. If it matters, when I took the toilet apart it had a different arrangement, where it only had the rubber washer on the tank bolts in the tank, then the bolts went through the base and on the underside of the base was a washer and but (both brass). That's it. So this fluidmaster has given me some pieces, in between tank and base, but I would think if anything that would help. Should I add an additional rubber washer on the underside of the tank before the brass washer and nut (that will all sit between tank and base).
Caulk anything?
I'm just perplexed and the plumber can't come until Wednesday if I want to throw in the towel.
Thanks,
Greg
I bought a Fluidmaster Toilet Tank Flush Valve, bolts, and gasket set because my flush valve was leaking. The stem of the overflow tube was cracked and water was leaking down the drain constantly. You could actually move the stemp back and forth it was so loose.
By the way, this is a house built in 1999 that we bought recently and the toilet says "Crane Plumbing" on it.
So, yesterday I attempted to install the new flush valve thinking it would be very easy as I've done this stuff before. Wrong, very wrong.
It came apart fine. I did notice that the installer (I think the previous homeowner) had used caulk on both sides of the spud/sponge gasket and also had used caulk on the tank bolts (there was caulk in the holes of the tank where the bolts go through. I thought that was a bit odd, I didn't think if you did it right you needed any caulk. I spent a good deal of time cleaning up the old caulk to get smooth surfaces. However, there is some residue left so there are some bumpy spots, which may be problematic.
I tried installing the flush valve per directions. Put it on, put the plastic washer on the bottom, hand tightened it and gave it another turn or two with a big wrench. That seems tight. Then I followed the directions. Rubber washer on both tank bolts, put them through tank holes, then put a brass washer and but underneath and tighten (we haven't put tank on base yet). Then put spud/sponge gasket on plastic stem underneath. Fine, pressed it on no problem. Then I put tank on base, put bolts through holes in base. Then I put another rubber washer, brass washer and hex nut on the tank bolts and hand tightened them pretty tight.
Then I turn on the water. Whether I flush or not, I can see with a flashlight in between the tank and base where the tank bolts come through the tank there is a drip coming out from where the brass washer and nut are (between the tank and the base). This continues and pools of water form on the floor.
I've tried lots of things, I've taken it apart and put it back together several times, and no matter what I do both of the tank bolts won't stop leaking.
Heck, I even tried caulk which I didn't think was a good thing to do (seems like I'm masking the problem) and that didn't seem to help.
So, any hints on how to go about this to get it right?
My main concerns:
1. How tight do you tighten those tank bolts (when you have the tank off the base and your just tightening the bolts to the tank? Once I hand tighten them snug, then how far do you go? I kind of wonder if I'm cranking them too tight? Depending on how I have it, I can have the rubber washers in the tank starting to curl up in the corners, leading me to believe I've gone to tight, so I've tried backing it off, to no avail. Whats the rule of thumb?
2. How tight do you need to turn that plastic washer on the underside of the tank where your tightening down the actual flush valve? I've got it pretty tight, don't think its leaking there.
3. Any reason I should have to caulk between the spud gasket and stem of the flush valve or between spud gasket and the hole on the base of the toilet? By the way, the hole on the base of toilet has old caulk residue. I cleaned as best I can, but still its bumpy from the little left over.
4. When I put the rubber washer on the underside of the toilet base, then brass washer and hex nut how far do you need to crank those. I've gone "very hand tight".
I'm thinking either a. there was some issue before and the reason the last person caulked was to hide it and/or b. I'm doing something wrong, most likely I'm cranking the heck out of those tank bolts when maybe it just needs finesse.
Any guidance here? I've tried lots of things and now I have the toilet tank on the floor and no toilet. If I hook it up, it will work, I'll just have the steady drip drip and pools on the floor on either side of the toilet from around those tank bolts. If it matters, when I took the toilet apart it had a different arrangement, where it only had the rubber washer on the tank bolts in the tank, then the bolts went through the base and on the underside of the base was a washer and but (both brass). That's it. So this fluidmaster has given me some pieces, in between tank and base, but I would think if anything that would help. Should I add an additional rubber washer on the underside of the tank before the brass washer and nut (that will all sit between tank and base).
Caulk anything?
I'm just perplexed and the plumber can't come until Wednesday if I want to throw in the towel.
Thanks,
Greg