bleeder valves and weep holes
- Thread starter Slugboy6000
- Start date
Users who are viewing this thread
Slugboy6000
Member
Huh, I didn't know... I might actually do that. Thanks again.
Sponsor
Paid Advertisement
Slugboy6000
Member
I got my new bleeder orifice installed today, but it's behaving like there's too much pressure and not draining properly.
At 4-1/2' below grade, it's well above what the manufacturer says is typical.
It won't even drain when I pop the pitiless..
It will drain if I reach down into the well and manually unseat the internal ball bearing with a poker.
I'm stumped.
At 4-1/2' below grade, it's well above what the manufacturer says is typical.
It won't even drain when I pop the pitiless..
It will drain if I reach down into the well and manually unseat the internal ball bearing with a poker.
I'm stumped.
When installed, the pitless will be about 4 ft below grade, and the orifice might be 4.5 ft below that.
What is at the pressure tank -- snifter valve with no cap?
Is the pitless up there in your test configuration, and the pipe for your test is horizontal from the pitless? Or in your test, is the pitless up there but open on the side?
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
The image from the Boshart site, specifies their Bleeder valve is to be located 10' minimum, 20' maximum below the well seal.
Perhaps the distance will need to be similar while using a pit less adaptor.
Slugboy6000
Member
My pitless adapter was 1' below grade and the bleeder orifice is now 3.5' below that.
There's a 6-8' horizontal run of 1" poly pipe from the pitless to a 3/4" copper outlet that's runs 5' up my wall. It's wide open, no pressure tank. There's roughly 10' of elevation between the bleeder orifice and the open outlet.
I did test the bleeder orifice valve before I dropped everything back down the well. Restricting the flow at the open pitless joint with my hand closed the bleeder valve and IIRC it did drain properly.
I was concerned about putting the bleeder orifice too deep and having it fail to open due to excess pressure. I should've checked Boshart's recommendations beforehand.
The valve appears to be overly sensitive. Even when I manually open the internal ball mechanism it doesn't readily want to stay open. I've had to give it a second poke.
I did buy a backup bleeder orifice because they weren't easy to find, is it worth trying, or should I try to go deeper?
There's a 6-8' horizontal run of 1" poly pipe from the pitless to a 3/4" copper outlet that's runs 5' up my wall. It's wide open, no pressure tank. There's roughly 10' of elevation between the bleeder orifice and the open outlet.
I did test the bleeder orifice valve before I dropped everything back down the well. Restricting the flow at the open pitless joint with my hand closed the bleeder valve and IIRC it did drain properly.
I was concerned about putting the bleeder orifice too deep and having it fail to open due to excess pressure. I should've checked Boshart's recommendations beforehand.
The valve appears to be overly sensitive. Even when I manually open the internal ball mechanism it doesn't readily want to stay open. I've had to give it a second poke.
I did buy a backup bleeder orifice because they weren't easy to find, is it worth trying, or should I try to go deeper?
Last edited:
Are these open when there is no pressure, as I would expect? I had figured the hole would be held open by a spring when there is minimal pressure.
I had also suspected there was always an intentional small leak. Otherwise, how could you rely on the pressure dropping when the pump turns off.
I guess you could replace that bleeder with a brass plug with a small hole drilled thru it. You would lose some water back down the well while the pump is on.
I had also suspected there was always an intentional small leak. Otherwise, how could you rely on the pressure dropping when the pump turns off.
I guess you could replace that bleeder with a brass plug with a small hole drilled thru it. You would lose some water back down the well while the pump is on.
Slugboy6000
Member
I will ask Boshart about pressure specs for these valves.
The internal ball mechanism is gravity actuated, orientation would be a consideration.
That link you posted shows a snifter valve being used to break the vacuum on a pressurized system.
I mentioned a simple weep hole way back in my first post. It works with manual hand pumps for frost protection. I don't love the idea but I also don't see a big problem with it...
Snifter valves are important to break the vacuum. Make sure you don't put a sealed valve cap on them.
There are check valves that are tapped to hold a snifter valve. Some are double-tapped, and even triple-tapped, so I presume the pressure tank-side hole is for the pressure switch and/or pressure gauge.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/wellpart.html#checkvalve
There are check valves that are tapped to hold a snifter valve. Some are double-tapped, and even triple-tapped, so I presume the pressure tank-side hole is for the pressure switch and/or pressure gauge.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/wellpart.html#checkvalve
Last edited:
:Looks like it should work. Don't know why it would work when you tested it but not after installing the pitless. You can use two or more bleeders when necessary. The top one takes the pressure off the lower one and lets it open. There are also bleeders with a spring instead of a ball that hold higher pressures. See Flomatic.
Slugboy6000
Member
After a round of testing I'm going to rant a little bit. I'm waiting for a reply from Boshart.
The bleeder does close and open properly if I run the pump with the pitless suspended in the air and I restrict the flow of water with my hand. The force with which the bleeders ball mechanism seats seems to make a difference, which mechanically makes no sense to me.
I tried a second identical bleeder and it also failed.
The spring loaded Flomatic valve got me thinking about drilling out the top of my pitless and installing a bleeder there.
It's within arm's reach, so it would be serviceable and still allow for pump removal. The vertical orientation of the valve would deter sediment obstruction and might even encourage my current valve to work. If not, I'll try Flomatic?
The bleeder does close and open properly if I run the pump with the pitless suspended in the air and I restrict the flow of water with my hand. The force with which the bleeders ball mechanism seats seems to make a difference, which mechanically makes no sense to me.
I tried a second identical bleeder and it also failed.
The spring loaded Flomatic valve got me thinking about drilling out the top of my pitless and installing a bleeder there.
It's within arm's reach, so it would be serviceable and still allow for pump removal. The vertical orientation of the valve would deter sediment obstruction and might even encourage my current valve to work. If not, I'll try Flomatic?
I think you are saying that if the pump feeds thru the normal path, and the pressure rises until cutoff, the ball seems to be jammed into the seat. Even after you break the vacuum by pushing down on the valve stem on the valve stem, the snifter device does not drain without being poked. But if you limit the max pressure to a few PSI, the device drains.
Is that description compatible with what you observe?
Is that description compatible with what you observe?
Slugboy6000
Member
Sorry, I need to clarify that all I have is a manually switched submersible pump with an open outlet. It's dead simple. No tank, snifter, or schrader.
I've been poking at the bleeder ball with a long stick.
I've been poking at the bleeder ball with a long stick.
Last edited:
So if you run the pump without holding your hand there, the space between the pitless (2 ft?) fills with water and stays full until you poke the ball.
Slugboy6000
Member
If I don't restrict the flow with my hand the bleeder valve will leak water.
If I do restrict the flow enough, the bleeder will close and then open automatically when the pressure drops.
Slugboy6000
Member
There must be two issues.
After normal operation, I have to poke the bleeder ball 2-3 times for it to disengage and drain... that's an inability to open at ~4psi.
It must also be jamming or sticking after normal operation because it fails to open at 1.5 psi when I pop the pitless.
After normal operation, I have to poke the bleeder ball 2-3 times for it to disengage and drain... that's an inability to open at ~4psi.
It must also be jamming or sticking after normal operation because it fails to open at 1.5 psi when I pop the pitless.
Last edited:
Your thought that this must be a crap product sounds reasonable to me. Maybe one with a spring forcing the opening would do the job better.
Could a street ell turning the device to make the opening on top put gravity in your favor and make the difference? I have my doubts.
Slugboy6000
Member
An elbow is a good idea. I may have a hard time getting a spring loaded bleeder.
https://support.boshart.com/winterizing-a-water-well-system-using-a-drain-back-valve says it is spring loaded, but I cannot find those parts.
A hole drilled into an NTP plug looking better? Yes, it wastes a little power, but not a lot.
A hole drilled into an NTP plug looking better? Yes, it wastes a little power, but not a lot.
Similar threads
