Wrong Toilet for my rough-in?

[Nancy HEiss]

I am doing a bath remodel. The contractor's helper install the toilet yesterday. Before he left, he told me it might leak as it was 'too big' or 'too heavy'. English is not his first language so I am not clear on what he was telling me. It appeared he was trying to say the toilet was too close to the wall. At any rate, it is indeed leaking at the back connection this morning, within the wall as the drywall is wet. Before I call the contractor, does this make any sense?

 

[Helper Dave]

Looks like maybe there wasn't enough pipe left outside the wall for the stop to properly tighten onto, since the skirted toilet doesn't leave much room there.

Hopefully it's just pushed back into the wall a bit, and not cut too short. If there is pipe to play with, they might be able to solder a stop on. Otherwise, a non-skirted toilet might be the answer (dunno if there's a skirted model with more room in back off hand).

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Nancy HEiss]

Looks like maybe there wasn't enough pipe left outside the wall for the stop to properly tighten onto, since the skirted toilet doesn't leave much room there.

Hopefully it's just pushed back into the wall a bit, and not cut too short. If there is pipe to play with, they might be able to solder a stop on. Otherwise, a non-skirted toilet might be the answer (dunno if there's a skirted model with more room in back off hand).

Thank you for the clarification. Did he install it incorrectly? Could he have put in a longer pipe to begin with? I don't want to have to buy another/different new toilet if I can help it.

 

[Reach4]

I think you have a compression valve. Is that valve on copper pipe? Not sure why the leak. If that is copper pipe, I think the more likely problem is that whoever installed the valve did not use enough torque. Also, check that the valve is fully operable, and rotation is not impeded by the toilet.

If I am correct in all those things, the remedy would be to pull the toilet for access. Then loosen the nut and pull the valve, giving access to the ferrule. Lube the ferrule and threads with pipe dope or other suitable lube. Then tighten the valve back in place with two fairly long wrenches. This is not the job for stubby wrenches or weak hands.

It seems unlikely that the problem was that the pipe was too short. If that were the case, he could have used a shallower escutcheon, or even omitted the escutcheon letting you put on a thin split escutcheon later.

If the valve is not readily operable, a different approach is needed. I am not a plumber.

That leak problem is not the toilet. As to what he should have done, if copper pipe, I think he could have made the valve more accessible. See https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/shut-off-valve-is-blocking-new-toilet-installation.75038/ #3

 

[Terry]

It looks like he could have removed the stop, cut the pipe back shorter and reinstalled closer to the wall.
Even better would be to put a 90 on there and move the shutoff over to the side of the bowl
There is some room there behind the bowl

 

[Nancy HEiss]

The contractor is telling me that the new toilet drain didn't line up with the original toilet drain as the new toilet is further from the wall. Seems like this could have and should have been addressed prior to install. He, along with this helper, are recommending I get a different toilet. This does not seem the right thing to do since I bought the toilet I wanted, showed him the spec sheet prior to the quote and had the toilet here (in the box) prior to the beginning of the project. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

What are you trying to accomplish? Just stop the leak, or also making the valve easier to operate?

Is that copper pipe in the wall? There is a tool called a sleeve puller than can let the plumber pull the old compression valve off of a copper pipe, and put something else on.

If you decide wall repair is in order anyway, they could move the valve location within the wall. If not changing things in the wall, consider that valve assembly in https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/shut-off-valve-is-blocking-new-toilet-installation.75038/ #3. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Dahl-E3...ion-Angle-Skirted-Toilet-Kit-Lead-Free-Chrome

 

[Terry]

A standard rough is 12" from the wall to the center of the drain.
They also make bowls that will set at 10" from the wall

 

[Nancy HEiss]

Thank you for your comments. I simply wanted the toilet I bought installed and not leaking. After some back and forth with the contractor, he agreed to have the helper fix it at no charge. If there were issues with the drain pipe or location of the toilet, that should have been brought to my attention prior to installing it incorrectly. He came back out today. I was not here so I don't know what he did. It took several hours so I am assuming he fixed it correctly.