Did this ever work 'right'?
Make sure that there is nobody using water in the house. Look at the water meter. See if the thing is indicating water is being used (sometimes, you can hear it, but not always). If it is, shut the inlet to the WH and see if it stops the counter on the water meter. If that happens, you have a hot water leak somewhere.
Another reason why your hot may be limited is if there's a cross-over in one of the fixtures. NOte, if you have a shower, have a valve on the showerhead, and do not actually close the valve on the wall...you've created a cross-over that will then mix cold into the hot line. Some single handle faucets can have an internal cross-over, so you could shut the cold supply valve off and see if that 'fixes' it. If you can isolate which one(s) is causing the problem, then you can replace or repair that valve. Some people put a T on their washing machine hoses to force it to always get warm water...that creates a cross-over between the H and C. Because water will take the path of least resistance, some valves may see hot and cold, but others may only see warm and cold. It's possible a washing machine itself may have a cross-over if it has a defective check valve or shutoff.
Do you have a hot water recycling system installed? If its checkvalve has failed, that would allow the hot line to be drawing from both the top and bottom of the tank. Initially, both of those would be hot, but quickly the bottom of the WH would become cold as you use hot water that will go towards the top.
If you've replaced the shower valve (assuming it's the shower), you generally need to adjust the high temp limit stop in the valve...the typical default setting won't allow the outlet to get all that hot. I put a post in the tutorial section that helps explain this, and how to fix it. That's a critical setup step in any modern shower valve that people tend to ignore until they find it doesn't work as expected.