Water leaking from clear tube

[sartis]

Hello, I have a clear tube that is coming off the cold side of my hot water heater, see attached photo. It runs down to the drain on the floor, it is always leaking a little water.....Can anyone help me understand what it is and if I can stop the flow of water.

Thanks in Advance.

Steve

 

[hj]

Tell us what that tag says first. It is either a "stop and waste" valve, or a built in pressure relief valve, but we would have to know the model # or description.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ImOld]

Look familiar?

Apollo/Conbraco Model Number:EXV

Combination Water Heater Shutoff and Thermal Expansion Relief Valve

 

[Jadnashua]

assuming it is a relief valve, you'd want to install a (temporary) water pressure gauge and see what your system water pressure really is. The tag should tell what pressure the thing is designed to open. It is entirely possible the pressure is reaching that level. The fix is to keep the pressure below that, or if adjustable, adjust it such that it doesn't open. Typically, the real fix is to add an expansion tank If your static pressure is above 80psi, you should also add a PRV to keep it lower (but it still needs an expansion tank to prevent thermal expansion from causing a pressure rise).

 

[Smooky]

I think it is a thermal expansion valve. It use to be considered a cheaper alternative than putting in an expansion tank. It needs to stay unless you do install an expansion tank. An expansion tank is the way to go, it doesn’t leak water and the cost is about the same now.

I think this is the same or a very similar valve:
http://www.grainger.com/product/2ZX...2ZXZ1&ef_id=UmH4pQAABD@1bjML:20131128012750:s

 

[hj]

quote; Typically, the real fix is to add an expansion tank If your static pressure is above 80psi, you should also add a PRV to keep it lower

An expansion tank is useless unless he has a closed system, such as is caused by a pressure reducing valve.

 

[Jadnashua]

quote; Typically, the real fix is to add an expansion tank If your static pressure is above 80psi, you should also add a PRV to keep it lower

An expansion tank is useless unless he has a closed system, such as is caused by a pressure reducing valve.

The fact that the relief valve is opening means one of three things: the static pressure is too high and a PRV is required, or the valve itself is failing, or, it IS a closed system, and it is relieving the thermal expansion.

In many parts of the country, the water utility is gradually upgrading the meters and almost all of them have checkvalves in them, creating a closed system where one may never have been before.

Check your static pressure - that will tell you if it is a thermal expansion issue or the valve has failed, or you have a closed system and it is just doing what it was designed to do! A gauge with a second 'tattle tale' hand to record peak pressure is a better choice, since you should monitor it for not only static pressure, but peak as well over at least a full day.

 

[ekinskofer]

Hi guys,

Reviving this old thread as I have the SAME problem right now with the same part, but my water flow is much more significant at about a cup every 10 seconds. I've check my pressure in my house, it's around 50psi right now. The valve I have is a Conbraco Apollo® 78RV Series Combination Water Heater Isolation Valve, rated for 80psi.

Turning the water on (both hot and cold) did not affect the flow. When I turn the valve off (same as above), the water out of the relief slows down significantly, however turns to hot water after around 5 minutes. I've never checked or replaced the TP valve on the actual hot water tank though and I tested it and it's releasing water fine. The water heat itself is normal.. not to hot or scalding. The tank is 10 years old.

Could you please tell me what I should do to resolve this? Replace the valve? Install an expansion tank? If so how far away from the valve? before or after the valve? Many thanks. I need to get this sorted out as I'm a bit worried.

cheers.
E

 

[Reach4]

Turning the water on (both hot and cold) did not affect the flow. When I turn the valve off (same as above), the water out of the relief slows down significantly, however turns to hot water after around 5 minutes.

What are you saying? Are you saying that the water coming out of the plastic tube is hot?

Could you please tell me what I should do to resolve this? Replace the valve? Install an expansion tank?

What is your water pressure when the water is dribbling?

 

[ekinskofer]

edit - made a mistake below.. meant turns from cold to hot.

Hi Reach4,

Many thanks for responding. Please see my system photos below.

Regarding your questions:

1. What are you saying? Are you saying that the water coming out of the plastic tube is hot?

I'm saying when I turn the valve off (below), the water slows down significantly, however, eventually turns from cold to hot. To me this means that there's pressure forcing the hot water out of the tank and down the clear relief tube. I just wanted to add that as a clue in case that adds value to finding the root problem.

2. What is your water pressure when the water is dribbling?

Good question. I assume you mean when the valve is turned off? I will check later.

If you have any additional thoughts on determining the root cause, please let me know. A couple of my pals think that this is related to the valve and that it might be faulty.

Many thanks!
E

 

[Reach4]

2. What is your water pressure when the water is dribbling?

Good question. I assume you mean when the valve is turned off? I will check later

I mean in normal operating condition.

The question is, is the device releasing water at too low a pressure, or is it doing its intended job. It's job is to limit the pressure as the water heater heats and expands water. Any time the WH flame (or electric) is on, and all water faucets are off, it is normal for that device to release water. If the WH is not heating or there is a slightly open faucet, it is normal to not be releasing water.

If you are in a water shortage area, you should put in an air-charged thermal expansion tank to handle the expansion without releasing water.

The other question is whether the pressure coming in from the city is too high.

 

[ekinskofer]

Water pressure at the laundry room tap directly above this room when using a faucet guage is about 50psi. Not sure what the city pressure is, but I think that the main shut off takes care of reducing this to 50psi? The water heater comes after this. I can take pics of this later if that helps.

 

[Reach4]

Water pressure at the laundry room tap directly above this room when using a faucet guage is about 50psi. Not sure what the city pressure is, but I think that the main shut off takes care of reducing this to 50psi? The water heater comes after this. I can take pics of this later if that helps.

A device that reduces city water pressure is called a PRV (pressure reducing valve).

So measure the pressure with valves at normal, and watch the rise to see what the peak is.

 

[Jadnashua]

If the valve releases water constantly, and you're reading 50psi on a gauge (assuming the gauge is accurate), the valve is shot. If it runs while the WH is running, then it's likely doing its job and it's thermal expansion. If it's thermal expansion, your gauge should rise until the valve opens. Wasting water is not a great idea, which is why an expansion tank was designed, which also helps to keep the pressure where you set it without peaks after the WH runs. Mineral deposits can make a valve fail to reseat along without a weak spring.

 

[ekinskofer]

Great thanks for the responses guys, much appreciated. The valve is constantly flowing water out right now as described.. it doesn't matter that the WH is on or not.

I think that the easiest fix is to try and replace that valve where the clear hose is coming out. Is that possible? Otherwise, I'll have to get a whole new replacement valve and take out the old one. My next question is, if I need to replace it, I might as well install an expansion tank and do this right.

So thinking something like below.

Pressure Reducing Valve-->Pressure gauge-->Shut off valve-->Expansion tank-->shut off valve-->vaccum relief-->WH

Thoughts?

Many thanks to all you guys.

 

[Reach4]

Thoughts?

Pressure gauge. Garden hose thread. Can go on laundry tap or water heater drain temporarily. These things are not expensive. They are usually available locally, but can be ordered. Under $20, and often under $10, in the US.

Probably a bad valve as you propose, but what if that valve is doing its job??? So you replace the valve and ask "what now?". Don't troubleshoot by replacing components until the problem stops. Even if you are an auto mechanic, try diagnosing before replacing.

 

[ekinskofer]

Roger that. That's why I'm hitting up this thread. I'm trying to understand why things are happening in this system.

Agreed, I'll replace the valve first and then see what happens. Will report back once I'm done with results for other readers that stumble across this thread.

cheers.
E

 

[Reach4]

Agreed, I'll replace the valve first and then see what happens. Will report back once I'm done with results for other readers that stumble across this thread.

We can agree that you are going to do what you are going to do.

 

[ekinskofer]

haha.. ok Reach4, I re-read your comments to see if I missed something. Apparently I did. I agree, try to diagnose the problem before solutioning.

Re your previous comments (can't find the quote option):

"The question is, is the device releasing water at too low a pressure, or is it doing its intended job. It's job is to limit the pressure as the water heater heats and expands water. Any time the WH flame (or electric) is on, and all water faucets are off, it is normal for that device to release water. If the WH is not heating or there is a slightly open faucet, it is normal to not be releasing water. "

and

"Pressure gauge. Garden hose thread. Can go on laundry tap or water heater drain temporarily."

So what you are saying is:

1. Install faucet gauges on the laundry tap and water heater drain.. preferably one with a taddle-tail.
2. Run system as normal.
3. check to see what peak pressure is at normal and flame on to determine if it is in fact exceeding 80psi.

Is that right?

Sorry for missing stuff.. I tend to (like everyone else apparently) want to jump to the conclusion. Apologies. I am humble and want to genuinely learn while trying to fix this issue.

Many thanks for taking the time to explain this and help me out.

cheers.
E

 

[Reach4]

So what you are saying is:

1. Install faucet gauges on the laundry tap and water heater drain.. preferably one with a taddle-tail.
2. Run system as normal.
3. check to see what peak pressure is at normal and flame on to determine if it is in fact exceeding 80psi.

Is that right?

Yes, except just one gauge one place or another.