Shower renovation - trying to install the Delta wall elbow (Model #50570) for a handheld shower wand. The male connection was supposed to be 1/16" to 3/16" past finished wall. It's not. It's barely sub flush with wall. I can't catch any threads when I try to screw on elbow with the black plastic gasket. I can screw the elbow on without the black plastic gasket. Does a short 1/2" MIP x 1/2"FIP bushing or adapter exist? Should I just install the elbow without the black plastic gasket? If I do that, should I put a bead of clear silicone around the elbow where it meets tile? Is there an issue with any options that I've listed? Any other suggestions? Pictures attached.
Wall Elbow for Shower
- Thread starter mschoenn
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Normally you rough those with a threaded female in the wall, that lets you use a brass nipple to install with at trim.
I think you have your work cut out for you.
I think you have your work cut out for you.
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I realize that now. But I'd rather not demo tile, thineset, and kerdiboard to cut out and re-sweat pipe and re-tile. Do you see an issue with installing elbow without the gasket and putting clear silicone around the elbow to seal (basically serving the same function as the absent gasket)?
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
I think you'd be okay without the gasket if you used silicon underneath it, but it would then be very difficult to ever remove it, if required. Are you sure you can get the thing threaded on enough to make a proper seal? You might want to check that first before redoing it with the silicon. Also, if it is not perfectly plumb with the wall, it may not sit flush, a flexible gasket might hide some of that, silicon might not.
Standardairconditioner
HVAC'ker
Your silicone hack will fail, from both any physical movements and the water pressure that may leak thru a weak thread with insufficient turns.
What's on the other side of that wall? If it's not the exterior, then demo the drywall on the other side. Drywall is soft, easy to cut, cheap to replace. I do see the kerdi you got in there. I'd even go as far as cutting thru my exterior on the other side to save any kerdi.
But if you really don't want to open up the drywall on the other side from possible wife reasons, the extension you are looking for is a "radiator extension fitting". The problem is that these are always in BSP as they are used only in the U.K. A good amount of dope may be able to make NPT-BSP do fairly well.
I actually have these on hand that I ordered for a client that I never got a chance to install. I suppose I can test and see how the BSP fairs when connected to NPT.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If you can get a good seal during a trial fitting without the gasket, redoing it with some silicon behind won't change the fact. How many turns into the fitting can you get, and does it get tight, or bottom out against the tile?
Hello! I have a related question. My plumber came and added the 90 degree drop elbow for this hand shower but did not add the nipple as he was unsure of the final finished wall thickness...and he is currently MIA. The wall is finished and I need to screw in the nipple, but with only a 1/16" to 3/16" suggested finished protrusion, a wrench will either not grip well or strip the threads. Can someone suggest what tools can be used to tighten the nipple? An internal pipe wrench or some sort or jerry-rigged extension?
Thanks!
Getting the nipple length right will be hard. I would use both pipe dope and PTFE tape. But if we presume you have the right length nipple, I don't see that you would need a tool-- just turn the wall elbow, and both threads will tighten.
The internal pipe wrench would be needed if you find the nipple is not the right length, and you want to remove the nipple from the wall to go to the next size. I am not a plumber. I have not had good luck with internal pipe wrenches.
Thx!
If you are threading on the shower hose adapter, a screwdriver inserted where the hose attaches allows you to spin the part on without touching any of the exterior. That also works with shower arms.
Thanks Terry! Any suggestions on tightening the nipple to the 90 drop elbow inside the wall.
It all goes together at one time. The nipple threads lightly to the wall elbow and then that threads into the wall.
For a measurement, I use a long nipple, thread up and take off the distance I need and then use the correct length nipple for the final.
Thx!
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Turning the part you can access will tighten the nipple in the middle, too.
Thanks!
I installed my shower this weekend and ran into a Goldilocks issue with the nipple. The 2 1/2" (which was actually 2 7/16") was just a little too long and the 2" was just a little too short. I tried cranking the 2 1/2" a little harder with an internal Husky wrench (which worked well) but I was never going to close that gap. Elsewhere on these forums, some had suggested using large amounts of Teflon tape to seal with a shorter nipple, but being a novice, I was not comfortable with that option.
I did manage to find a 2 1/4" food service nipple and hopefully this one works.
https://www.heritageparts.com/Manufacturers/Henny-Penny/HENNY-PENNY-PIPE-NIPPLE/p/HEP35817
Thank you all for your help in advice and inspiration!
I never tighten just the nipple into the wall. Tighten both at the same time as it gives you a much better chance of stopping where you want it and more leeway as to length. It's much more forgiving. It also means you can skip looking for that tool that isn't even needed for this job.
Terry, that is the plan - to lightly start the shower elbow with the nipple, insert into wall and tighten everything together - I just wanted to get an idea of how deep the nipples would go - so that I grab atleast a few threads per side. Thx!
