Toilet Flange won't go all the way in drain pipe

[J Van]

I'm installing a toilet in a bathroom basement. The drain pipe is 4" and the flange is designed to fit inside it. I cut the drain pipe flush with the floor. I dry fit the flange about half way, pulled it out and primed/glued it back in only it wouldn't go all the way down. It sat about 1/2" off the floor and I couldn't get it to go any farther. I managed to get the first one out and went and got another one to try again and the same thing happened only this one bonded and i had to chisel it out.

What are my options to get this in and now that its primed and glued already do i sand that out and/or clean it up before I try again? Can I cut the end of the flange off a little? It seems like the drain pipe narrows a little bit farther in.

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

They have non-glue flanges. Got clearance for an outside compression flange?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[J Van]

They have non-glue flanges. Got clearance for an outside compression flange?

No clearance, its set in concrete.

 

[Reach4]

No clearance, its set in concrete.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/sioux-chief-887-gpm-pushtite.89287 goes inside.

Oatey PVC Twist-n-Set Flange would work if a plastic ring is acceptable. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oatey-PVC-Twist-n-Set-Open-Flange-436512/100062268

 

[Jadnashua]

Sorry if these are obvious questions, but is the flange specified for an inside fit? And, are you sure you got the cement coating all the way necessary on both the pipe and the fitting? The fitting is designed to be an interference fit...meaning, that it will not allow the two to come together until the solvent in the cement literally melts the plastic. If your cement is getting old and thick, it won't have as much solvent in it, and that could be part of the issue as well. If you did not use the primer, and then apply the cement within the recommended time frame, that can be an issue, too. The primer cleans AND softens the pipe, then the cement can get a better bite into the plastic with no dirt or crud to contaminate it. If you wait too long between application of the primer and the cement, the plastic will reharden, making it harder for the cement to do its job.

 

[J Van]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/sioux-chief-887-gpm-pushtite.89287 goes inside.

Oatey PVC Twist-n-Set Flange would work if a plastic ring is acceptable. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-Oatey-PVC-Twist-n-Set-Open-Flange-436512/100062268

I may give that a try tomorrow if I can't get it in tonight.

 

[Reach4]

I may give that a try tomorrow if I can't get it in tonight.

You don't want to keep gluing stuff in, and then somehow ripping it back out. How can that happen anyway?

1. How far in does your 4 inch pipe go without curving?
2. Could it be that the flange won't sit flat on a floor, and requires the upper part of the pipe to be cleared out to make clearance for the flange?

 

[J Van]

Sorry if these are obvious questions, but is the flange specified for an inside fit? And, are you sure you got the cement coating all the way necessary on both the pipe and the fitting? The fitting is designed to be an interference fit...meaning, that it will not allow the two to come together until the solvent in the cement literally melts the plastic. If your cement is getting old and thick, it won't have as much solvent in it, and that could be part of the issue as well. If you did not use the primer, and then apply the cement within the recommended time frame, that can be an issue, too. The primer cleans AND softens the pipe, then the cement can get a better bite into the plastic with no dirt or crud to contaminate it. If you wait too long between application of the primer and the cement, the plastic will reharden, making it harder for the cement to do its job.

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) I know - It behaved as expected until the very end when it got stuck.
4) The cement didn't seem to be old and thick. That being said, its a year old or more.
5) I immediately pushed it in once the primer/cement were on.

I feel like if i cut 1/2" off the bottom of the flange it will go in all the way. Is this something I could do or not so much?

 

[J Van]

You don't want to keep gluing stuff in, and then somehow ripping it back out. How can that happen anyway?

1. How far in does your 4 inch pipe go without curving?
2. Could it be that the flange won't sit flat on a floor, and requires the upper part of the pipe to be cleared out to make clearance for the flange?

I didn't measure it but probably 8-12"

It should sit flat, it looks like its designed to. I could cut the top of the drain pipe out a little but if the problem is further down the pipe it will still get stuck.

 

[Helper Dave]

If it goes down that far before the bend:

Prime it
Glue it
Push it in
Stomp on it

Don't worry, you won't hurt it. Stand on it for 20 seconds or so just to make sure it stays put.

 

[Terry H]

If someone has replaced the flange before it might be a tight fit. It should slide in though. Make sure it’s a 4x3 flange. Over 3 inside 4.

I have nothing useful, here to watch.

 

[J Van]

If it goes down that far before the bend:

Prime it
Glue it
Push it in
Stomp on it

Don't worry, you won't hurt it. Stand on it for 20 seconds or so just to make sure it stays put.

I tried those things, also tried hammering, sitting on it and jumping on it. Couldn't get it to move. Also elected to try again again after sanding out the inside a little and now its worse, still not all the way down only this time its not even remotely level. I've decided to just call a plumber to get it done right. Should I get the one stuck in there out or leave it for him to deal with?