Tips for 400 ft pipe run

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sam36

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Howdy,

In the next few months I am going to be moving a mobile home onto some existing property to live next to some aging relatives. I've got everything figured out in order to get the trailer onto the property except for how to run the water service. Or rather, the best way to run the water service.

This is what the property currently looks like: https://i.imgur.com/6OllYOf.png
Basically up front there is a 3/4" water meter that has about 1 ft of iron pipe that runs to an iron tee. Right above the tee is a hose faucet and then somehow it transitions to 1" PVC (haven't dug up that part yet to check for sure). The 1" PVC runs about 80 ft diagonally to a tee which has a line running to a backyard hose faucet, the other end continues to the house.

So the house I am putting on the property will be at the back of the lot and about 300 ft from the water meter. Originally I was just going to re-run everything with Pex and then I found out that 1" pex is not 1" on the inside and for 300+ ft I really needed something with 1 1/4" inside diameter. So basically needed 1 1/2" pex and that stuff is nearly $2 a ft and tools and fittings for that size are hard to find. I've seen recommendations for using poly pipe for water supply runs but it seems once you get diameters above 1" you start getting close to the $1 per foot price range and might as well just stick with PVC. I've also had trouble figuring out the fittings needed for poly pipe as well, seems most insert type fittings are unbranded and probably made in china and I don't want to have any de-zinc problems down the road (although the water quality here is pretty good but that could always change as the county sources water from different lakes and aquifers every year).

So for my latest idea, I figured I'd just try to run a 1 1/4" PVC "trunk" line and tee off from that to either 1" pex or 1" pvc: https://i.imgur.com/QI4sL6E.png I'm leaning towards only having pex transitions from the 1 1/4" PVC as it seems every 5 years or so we already have leaks in the existing PVC anywhere there is a 90* or 45* joint. Not sure if its just because its only buried about a ft deep or just improperly glued but I really don't want to add more PVC to the property. But I feel safe with a single straight run with a tee in the middle to tie into the existing house. Also there will be a new driveway going over the pipe, so I am going to bury that about 2+ ft deep which would mean it would be hard to tie into the existing PVC since it is only 1 ft deep. Seems like with pex, I would not have to worry about making sure everything is lined up just right as you would with connecting new PVC to existing PVC. But then again, having seemingly random runs of pex connecting from new PVC and running to old PVC seems somewhat unorthodox... But I feel like I'd trust some pex with copper crimps better than PVC coupled together at various angles and depths... Either way, for the run to the new house, I'll probably stop the 1 1/4" PVC about 100 ft from it and transition to 1" pex which will run the rest of the way.

As far as transitioning from PVC to Pex, seems the old way was to either use a sharkbite or a brass barb with a FIP socket on one end and then screw a PVC MIP adapter into that. Both ways seem to have their issues and then I found these: https://www.pexuniverse.com/sioux-chief-1-pex-pvc-adapter-lead-free-645x4p a copper fitting with a pressed in PVC socket and pex barb on the other end. Seems like a good product but there is a pressed o-ring internally but I guess it should be reliable, or at least I'd hope.

If I go this route, I'll probably tie into the old 1" PVC a few feet from the water meter with the new 1 1/4" PVC. I'd rather not do that, but I don't want to mess with the 30 year old iron pipe that is already there. At least not yet, I've got enough on my plate. Really not sure the best way to tie into the water meter tail piece anyway, I'd be tempted to just use Pex again and a brass MIP with barb. Probably better than trying to screw a PVC MIP coupling into the meter. Everyone that has PVC running straight into their meters seems to have them break every few years for one...

We are in central Texas so it rarely freezes. The dirt is the Texas "black gumbo" which shrinks a lot in the dry summer and expands a lot in the wet spring. Full of rocks in places too. I'm going to attempt to run everything at least 2ft in the ground. Might go 3 ft but if I ever spring a leak, digging for 3 feet will not be fun. We are not in the city limits and the county only has a few codes to follow.

So I'm fully open to suggestions. Am I somewhat on the right track or way off?? :) All the old timers around here seem to just suggest to run all PVC, but I really don't like that stuff. And I don't like leaks either.....
 

Michael Young

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Howdy,

In the next few months I am going to be moving a mobile home onto some existing property to live next to some aging relatives. I've got everything figured out in order to get the trailer onto the property except for how to run the water service. Or rather, the best way to run the water service.

This is what the property currently looks like: https://i.imgur.com/6OllYOf.png
Basically up front there is a 3/4" water meter that has about 1 ft of iron pipe that runs to an iron tee. Right above the tee is a hose faucet and then somehow it transitions to 1" PVC (haven't dug up that part yet to check for sure). The 1" PVC runs about 80 ft diagonally to a tee which has a line running to a backyard hose faucet, the other end continues to the house.

So the house I am putting on the property will be at the back of the lot and about 300 ft from the water meter. Originally I was just going to re-run everything with Pex and then I found out that 1" pex is not 1" on the inside and for 300+ ft I really needed something with 1 1/4" inside diameter. So basically needed 1 1/2" pex and that stuff is nearly $2 a ft and tools and fittings for that size are hard to find. I've seen recommendations for using poly pipe for water supply runs but it seems once you get diameters above 1" you start getting close to the $1 per foot price range and might as well just stick with PVC. I've also had trouble figuring out the fittings needed for poly pipe as well, seems most insert type fittings are unbranded and probably made in china and I don't want to have any de-zinc problems down the road (although the water quality here is pretty good but that could always change as the county sources water from different lakes and aquifers every year).

So for my latest idea, I figured I'd just try to run a 1 1/4" PVC "trunk" line and tee off from that to either 1" pex or 1" pvc: https://i.imgur.com/QI4sL6E.png I'm leaning towards only having pex transitions from the 1 1/4" PVC as it seems every 5 years or so we already have leaks in the existing PVC anywhere there is a 90* or 45* joint. Not sure if its just because its only buried about a ft deep or just improperly glued but I really don't want to add more PVC to the property. But I feel safe with a single straight run with a tee in the middle to tie into the existing house. Also there will be a new driveway going over the pipe, so I am going to bury that about 2+ ft deep which would mean it would be hard to tie into the existing PVC since it is only 1 ft deep. Seems like with pex, I would not have to worry about making sure everything is lined up just right as you would with connecting new PVC to existing PVC. But then again, having seemingly random runs of pex connecting from new PVC and running to old PVC seems somewhat unorthodox... But I feel like I'd trust some pex with copper crimps better than PVC coupled together at various angles and depths... Either way, for the run to the new house, I'll probably stop the 1 1/4" PVC about 100 ft from it and transition to 1" pex which will run the rest of the way.

As far as transitioning from PVC to Pex, seems the old way was to either use a sharkbite or a brass barb with a FIP socket on one end and then screw a PVC MIP adapter into that. Both ways seem to have their issues and then I found these: https://www.pexuniverse.com/sioux-chief-1-pex-pvc-adapter-lead-free-645x4p a copper fitting with a pressed in PVC socket and pex barb on the other end. Seems like a good product but there is a pressed o-ring internally but I guess it should be reliable, or at least I'd hope.

If I go this route, I'll probably tie into the old 1" PVC a few feet from the water meter with the new 1 1/4" PVC. I'd rather not do that, but I don't want to mess with the 30 year old iron pipe that is already there. At least not yet, I've got enough on my plate. Really not sure the best way to tie into the water meter tail piece anyway, I'd be tempted to just use Pex again and a brass MIP with barb. Probably better than trying to screw a PVC MIP coupling into the meter. Everyone that has PVC running straight into their meters seems to have them break every few years for one...

We are in central Texas so it rarely freezes. The dirt is the Texas "black gumbo" which shrinks a lot in the dry summer and expands a lot in the wet spring. Full of rocks in places too. I'm going to attempt to run everything at least 2ft in the ground. Might go 3 ft but if I ever spring a leak, digging for 3 feet will not be fun. We are not in the city limits and the county only has a few codes to follow.

So I'm fully open to suggestions. Am I somewhat on the right track or way off?? :) All the old timers around here seem to just suggest to run all PVC, but I really don't like that stuff. And I don't like leaks either.....

Just go with the 1" PEX the whole way. You'll be fine. The only question I didn't see answered was HOW MANY BATHROOMS you have in that house. But honestly, if you're worried about spending $1/foot on a 300 foot run, and you're doing this job yourself, you're not living in 2 million dollar home with eight bathrooms.

Go with the 1" pex. Buy a 500 foot coil so you have no joints underground.

Get the ground marked for underground utilities. Rent a stand-on trencher (do not rent the the little tiller-type trencher). If you're not STANDING on a little platform on the back or sitting in a seat - DON'T RENT IT!!! I'm 250-lbs and I do powerlifting for fun. TRUST ME ON THIS - SPEND THE EXTRA $$$ on the better trencher. Set your depth at 2-feet and just drive. Get your helper to roll the line in the bottom of the trench working about 10-feet behind you. Have him WALK on the pipe and rake dirt to hold the pipe down about every 3-feet.curl up and extra 3-feet on each end so you have plenty of extra. You don't want any couplings or joints underground.

Get it inspected. bury it up. If you're not getting it inspected, then flip the trencher around and use the blade to bury every bit of it. you're 2-feet down (deeper than code requires) and there are NO JOINTS TO INSPECT. There's not much to inspect. But a municipal inspection now is cheap and won't bite you in the ass down the road if you ever want to sell the house.
 

Reach4

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https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-4-sidr-7-excel-250-psi/p-1444431559434.htm
is stronger than necessary and is offered in different lengths including 400ft.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...053-c-8570.htm?tid=3309979544444546506&ipos=2 is 1-1/2 inch and is offered in various lengths including 400ft.

SIDR stands for Standard Inside Dimension Ratio. The barbed fittings fit various pressure pipe because the inside dimension is fixed for a given nominal size. In tables, you might see the barbed fitting end called "insert". The other end would be NPT OR MNPT. These in stainless or brass are used in well a lot to connect pumps to poly. They are also available in plastic which I presume is good for your use. Female threads should be brass or stainless, but plastic male threads are good.
 

Terry

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ipc_water_size_50.jpg


An IPC chart for PEX which is smaller than copper.
A 3/4" meter with 1" PEX at 400 feet is 9.5 units
A 3/4" meter with 1.25" PEX at 400 feet is 29 units
A one bath home needs 19 units. You need at least 1.25" PEX and something like poly or PVC gives you even more volume at the end of the friction restricted 400 foot run. A 3/4" meter puts out 32 units in the beginning, but friction loss over distance plays a huge part.
For instance, on my mothers lot measuring about 500 feet deep, until I replaced the main line coming in with 1.5" PVC, the irrigation on the hill wouldn't pop the heads out of the ground. The new line fixed that.

pipe_size_1.jpg
 

sam36

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https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-4-sidr-7-excel-250-psi/p-1444431559434.htm
is stronger than necessary and is offered in different lengths including 400ft.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...053-c-8570.htm?tid=3309979544444546506&ipos=2 is 1-1/2 inch and is offered in various lengths including 400ft.

SIDR stands for Standard Inside Dimension Ratio. The barbed fittings fit various pressure pipe because the inside dimension is fixed for a given nominal size. In tables, you might see the barbed fitting end called "insert". The other end would be NPT OR MNPT. These in stainless or brass are used in well a lot to connect pumps to poly. They are also available in plastic which I presume is good for your use. Female threads should be brass or stainless, but plastic male threads are good.


Yea the only place I could really find any large selection of ploy was menards. At a local hardware store all of their offerings were only 100psi for irrigation runs.

I guess my aversion to poly is due to the fact that I have never messed with it before. Looks like for any application above 200psi is supposed to use compression or pack fittings which can get pricey. But my main issue with poly is how to transition it to other materials. If I make a run straight from the water meter, I'd have to put a tee of some sort in to run to a hose faucet that is about 2 feet from the meter (which that section is currently iron pipe). And then about 100 ft from the meter I'd have to tee off to make a run to the PVC that runs to the existing house and the only way to transition poly to PVC is with threads it seems (which threads and PVC seem to be a no no).

And then finally at the end of the run, transition to pex for the new house. So it just seems to me since one house is PVC and another is Pex, that I might as well try to limit my self to just using those two materials. Everyone I've talked to "in real life" seems to suggest only PVC for everything while all the online folks seem to push poly for everything outside. Any idea to the aversion to PVC? I personally feel it is too brittle, especially in 90 degree bends that seem to leak after 5-10 years, and not easy to splice in a new section if a leak develops. But I feel safe with my idea of limiting the PVC run in this case to a single straight 300ft run (with one or two tees somewhere in there). I guess I'm curious if this is an "OK" idea or just a terrible one :D
 

MACPLUMB

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GO with the poly pipe with "BRASS" insert fittings, throw in a brass tee when you tee off, come straight off the Meter to get max flow, the reason that the PVC fittings start to leak is because of thrust from the water flowing though them !
google thrust from water to see what I mean, pm me your contact info and I will call you I am in Houston
 

Storm rider

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Previous house that I owned had 3,000 feet of 2" PVC from the meter to the house. We installed a "slip fix" type coupling every couple hundred feet to allow for thermal expansion. In your case, just put them at the T's and 90's. Or use poly, as has been suggested by others.
 
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