New water line 1000 feet long

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Jamy

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Running a 1000 feet of new water line (pvc]. The meter has been installed but with the recent rain, is under water due to the hole that was dug. My question is, since I can't see the connections; what do I need to connect this pvc line to the installed meter?

Not A Plumber ......
 
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The meter has been installed but with the recent rain, is under water due to the hole that was dug. My question is, since I can't see the connections; what do I need to connect this pvc line to the installed meter?

Not A Plumber ......

I think you either need a good pump, or a way to siphon the water out of the ditch. Are you good at swimming?
Sadly, most PVC glues don't like being used below water. They are kind of picky that way.
 

Jamy

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I think you either need a good pump, or a way to siphon the water out of the ditch. Are you good at swimming?
Sadly, most PVC glues don't like being used below water. They are kind of picky that way.
Hoping the water will have drained off by Tuesday, which is my planned date yo start. The soil is usually well drained because of the high content of "pebbles" and small rock just at about a foot down. I have never connected to a meter so I am curious as to how it works. I keep reading about back flow meters and thermal bla bla. Thoughts?
 

Terry

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Most residential meters are 3/4" and then you use a larger pipe for long distance to deal with the friction loss.
1,000 feet is a long ways.
 

Reach4

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Running a 1000 feet of new water line (pvc]. The meter has been installed but with the recent rain, is under water due to the hole that was dug. My question is, since I can't see the connections; what do I need to connect this pvc line to the installed meter?
If you have not yet run the 1000 ft, you may want to reconsider some things.
 

Reach4

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Running poly instead of PVC, considering the effects of thermal expansion and contraction, especially if you go with PVC. Making sure the pipe you run will not have too much pressure drop. poly pipe is usually used for running water from wells to houses, and often down the well. You would probably ASTM D2239 where IPS ID is held and OD varies with pressure rating. This allows the same size barbs to be used with more than one pressure rating.

Regarding how to hook up to the meter? I would think you would ask the city water department what it takes to hook to their meter.

I don't have experience with any of this. I found this article of interest: http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=782 --in particular, the discussion of thermal expansion and contraction. They seemed to only be worried about it for when the cement was not totally hardened, but I wonder if some consideration would make sense for long runs over the long term.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/black-poly-tubing-for-potable-water.54313/

https://plasticpipe.org/pdf/chapter07.pdf
https://hdpe.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/tr-21_thermal_expansion_contraction_plastic_pipe.pdf
 
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Storm rider

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Previous house that I owned had 3,000 feet of 2" PVC from the meter to the house. We installed a "slip fix" type coupling every couple hundred feet to allow for thermal expansion. Seemed to work, as we never had a leak.
 

Michael Young

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Running a 1000 feet of new water line (pvc]. The meter has been installed but with the recent rain, is under water due to the hole that was dug. My question is, since I can't see the connections; what do I need to connect this pvc line to the installed meter?

Not A Plumber ......
If I was doing this job, I would run it with a 1000' roll of 1" pex.
 

Jadnashua

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A 1" pipe, 1000' long would likely have more pressure drop than you want...larger is your friend. Pressure drop in 1000' of 1" pex at 10gpm would be around 55#! that might be an upper bound, but not if you were trying to also say run a sprinkler system or had to fight a fire. And, depending on the supply pressure, you may not get any water at all, especially if there's an elevation rise.

https://www.pexuniverse.com/pex-tubing-technical-specs
 

LLigetfa

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A lot depends on what PSI is at the curb to start with and what GPM it can provide along with what PSI and GPM are needed at the other end and what elevation change there might be. If I was doing this job, I would hedge my bet and run a 1000' roll of 2" poly.
 

PumpMd

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Since no real plumber wants to show you what your PSI losses are going to be. I will show you what sch40 PVC will be at 1000'. All you need to know is your GPM and PSI feeding into your pipe.

Edit: Elevation PSI losses are every 2.31' is 1PSI LOSS
 

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PumpMd

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It is readable on my picture

at 10gpm with lets say 60psi is what you are working with. Your PSI losses are going to be only ".24" with no elevation losses to add. My velocity inside the pipe is going to be ".96".


With 2" sch 40 PVC pipe

Edit: ".24" per 100', so 2.4PSI

No need for a booster pump setup
 
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Jadnashua

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As I said...bigger is your friend. Friction is real. Static pressure might be fine...dynamic pressure means friction as the fluid moves. The faster it moves, the more friction. A larger pipe at the same gpm means slower velocity, thus less friction...size is your friend...

Throw in an elevation rise, and you may not get any water out the end. OTOH, if it's downhill, you may need a pressure regulation valve, but velocity still is a problem. 1" pipe just won't cut it unless you might be filling a cistern, and then add your own pump system. Much more reliable to let the utility provide the pump when it's an option, and bigger is required.
 

PumpMd

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if it's downhill elevation

Every 2.31' is a 1psi Gain

I don't have a plumbing license either...It's up to the license plumber after the house valve.
 
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