Need help correcting an angled shower drain riser

[maui pat]

I'm tiling a shower and running into some issues, here's the situation:
Cast iron drain pipe is coming up at an angle. There's an 8" x 14" cutout in the slab around it. I can move it slightly by pushing on it, but not enough to make it plumb. I'd like to avoid getting down into the ground and so would like some opinions on using a flexible banded coupling- recommended or no? Also, what do y'all recommend in terms of filling in the cutout? Can I use sand/gravel or do I need to pour cement? If the latter is the case, then what do I wrap the pipe and coupling with to prevent corrosion?
All opinions much appreciated.

 

[Dj2]

A shielded flex coupling will help (Frenco is one brand). You can also work with a riser that is not 100% plumbed.

You can fill the hole with the dirt you brought out. Compact it, pour 3-1/2" concrete and smooth it. You can wrap the drain riser where it meets the concrete. Concrete is not a barrier, you will need a water barrier before tiling. Make sure you finish the barrier around the drain riser.
In the west coast we use hot mop (hot tar). You can also use a liner. I don't know what they use in your state.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

You may be able to go back to where it's attached, and if it's a no-hub coupling, loosen the bands, rotate to vertical and then tighten.
Or cut the pipe behind the p-trap and use a shielded coupling to reinstall.

 

[maui pat]

So a shielded flex coupling will allow me to adjust my drain so that its level? That's the result I am going for here, not sure if that was clear or not. I'm doing a pre-slope and using a pvc liner for the barrier.

I'm hoping to not have to dig out down to where it's attached, but rather attach my drain to the angled riser using some kind of coupling that allows me to flex and tilt the drain to level.

 

[Jadnashua]

How old is the house? Cast iron components DO rust out. Have you looked at your p-trap? It would be a pain to build a new shower and next year, have the trap leaking...draws carpenter ants and termites. Terry's suggestion of possibly removing (and replacing it) would allow you to resolve your issue. A banded coupling doesn't have a lot of flex once tightened, but you can achieve some. Being buried underground, you could use a rubber coupling, which would have more flex (it needs to be packed carefully when reinstalling the fill around the pipe to keep the two ends aligned - a banded coupler, the banding does that job).

You didn't say how far off it was, that might influence any decisions on how to fix it. Note, you really shouldn't be moving a leaded connection around...it can loosen it up and allow it to start leaking.