Need advice on replacing toilet flange

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Sluggo

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My neighbor asked me to help him because he was getting water damage to the ceiling beneath an upstairs bathroom. I cut out some sheetrock and could see a couple of ounces of water run down the outside of the toilet drain when the toilet was flushed. I pulled the toilet and found that the ABS flange was glued in 90 degrees from the normal position, that it was somewhat deformed where the two bolts had been installed in the wrong holes, and that the flange was about 3/8" below floor level due to a tiling remodel years earlier. It had a wax ring with a horn that went down into the drain, but it looked like it was not sealing well because of the poor flange installation. Here is a picture of what it looked like after I removed the wax ring:

IMG_0476.JPG


I'm looking for advice on how best to fix this. My first inclination was to cut the flange out using an internal pipe cutter, and glue in a new one at the proper height, but the flange is glued in to a sweep that starts immediately below the bottom end of the flange. My next thought was to leave the old flange in place and get a Pushtite type of flange like this:

Fl.JPG



I would just screw this down over and through the old flange and into the wood floor (which seems sound). This would also mean that the top of the new flange would be about flush with the floor, but I would be willing to add an extender to get it 1/4" higher.

I would appreciate any input into this approach, or alternatives that might be a better solution.
 

Terry

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Normally I make sure the closet bolts are firm and holding.
I put one regular wax ring down, and then I stack a second ring over that with a horn.

Or you can use something like a Sani-Seal there.
Either way, you will want to brush off the flange to make a smooth finish for the wax or Sani-Seal to seal to.
One regular sized wax ring won't do a recessed flange. They also make thick rings, which could work there.

I have used the push-in repair flange to raise the flange, and those need to be secured too.

oatey-twist-n-set-terrylove-1.jpg
 
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hj

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It may be YOUR impression that the flange was installed improperly, but since MANY flanges have 2 "notches" at the 90 degree points that may be what they used. If the bolts are "secure" there is no reason to change the flange. Just use a thicker wax seal.
 

Jadnashua

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Most plumbers, given a choice, would not use an all-plastic flange...they prefer one with a SS ring that won't rust and is stronger (won't crack like a plastic ring will).

When setting the toilet with new wax ring(s), do NOT use the bolts to pull it down to the floor...use your body weight to push the toilet into the wax. Then, lightly tighten the bolts, and especially on a tiled floor, you need to caulk around the base (generally leaving the back open) to seal things, but it also does a good job of helping to hold the toilet in place. IOW, if you rely on trying to clamp it in place with the bolts, you risk breaking either or both the flange or the toilet. They're there to help with alignment more than holding it in place.

As HJ mentioned, many flanges have single, narrow slots designed to hold the bolts that must be slid in from the outside verses through the longer, T-slot. If you use the narrow slots, they're actually stronger.

new-closet-flange-terrylove-01.jpg
 

Atomic1

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If the closet bolts are holding, look at a Danco Perfect seal. I have had good experience with it on low flanges because it has height adjustment, and is more robust than other options. Aka, you're not going to blow the sides of the danco out by plunging like you would with an extended wax ring or other.
 

Terry

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new-closet-flange-terrylove-02.jpg


A new closet flange being glued into the 90 below the floor.

new-closet-flange-terrylove-03.jpg


Sioux Chief TKO closet flange.

new-closet-flange-terrylove-04.jpg


new-closet-flange-terrylove-05.jpg


And a TOTO Drake dropped down.
CST744E-01
Terry Love
 
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