Lead pipe to PVC - Mounting Offset Toilet Flange???

[sdkool]

Hello,
I live in Southeast Texas. I am replacing my old toilet with a new one, but ran into an issue when I removed the old toilet. It’s looks as though the original plumber made a makeshift offset flange by bending a thin lead pipe forward, slipping a toilet mounting ring around it, and then bending the metal around the ring to hold it down with minimal solder. The bend in the flange was so great the opening was only about 2 1/2” wide. Probably the cause of several clogs. The lead pipe also had too large cracks where it was bent.

Since I didn’t like how small the hole was or how the toilet mounting ring had become lose, I decide to cut out the bent and cracked parts of the lead pipe.

Now that I eliminated the mess, I don’t know where to go from here. Hopefully I didn’t screw everything up by cutting out the bad part of the pipe.

I have attached several pictures in hopes someone will be able to understand.

Please help... Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Dean


P.s. In some of the photos you can see where the lead ties in to the pvc. You can also so lots of purple primer. How do you bond pvc with lead?

 

[Reach4]

How far below the floor surface (top) is the lead?

I think you are saying that the lead is about 4 inch ID, right?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry]

They also make these for 4" pipe. It pushes into the pipe and then you secure it to the floor.

What is the measurement from the wall to the center of the drain? If it's less than 11" you may need a 10" rough toilet.

 

[sdkool]

How far below the floor surface (top) is the lead?

I think you are saying that the lead is about 4 inch ID, right?

The lead is about 2 3/8 below tile surface.

The lead pipe ID is about 4”, maybe 1/6-1/8” less. It just not prefectly round.

 

[sdkool]

They also make these for 4" pipe. It pushes into the pipe and then you secure it to the floor.

What is the measurement from the wall to the center of the drain? If it's less than 11" you may need a 10" rough toilet.

The measurement to the center of the lead pipe is about 9 1/4”. Unfortunately I already special ordered my toilet and it needs about 10 1/2”. Will need some type of offset flange.

 

[Reach4]

Check this for fit:

http://www.siouxchief.com/docs/defa...s---gasketed-offset-closet-flange---fullflush

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/offset-flange-replacement-nightmare.65728/

 

[Jadnashua]

While it might seal, don't think any of the push-in flanges are designed for use with lead pipe. Good luck.

 

[sdkool]

Thanks for all your replies. I have come down to two methods I would like to run by everyone and get your thoughts.


Method 1- Sioux Chief Gasketed Offset Closet Flange


Get a chipping hammer to break away the slab area in front of or to the side, where ever I need to align the toilet flange. Making sure to chip away enough slab for the offset toilet flange to fit down into the lead pipe. Then dry fit everything making sure I have it flush or sitting on top of the floor. Once I do that put a concrete patching compound around the area I chipped out. Drill and set some concrete fasteners to hold the flange secure to the slab so it does not pull out. Applying some silicone plumbers grease to the gasket to assist with a smooth seal.


Method 2:


The other option is to inset a piece of lead pipe that fits within the existing lead pipe. Chip around the concrete in order to properly install a brass offset flange, silicone caulk well around the pipes, and solder. Also securing the flange to the slab or floor.


Thanks again for any advice.

Dean

 

[Terry]

A 10" rough toilet will install at 9.25" without an offset.
I've used the Push Tite on lead before. The rubber washer is quite giving.

 

[sdkool]

A 10" rough toilet will install at 9.25" without an offset.
I've used the Push Tite on lead before. The rubber washer is quite giving.

Unfortunately I special ordered my toilet and have it already. Can’t return it. It calls for a 12” rough in, but I measured it and 10 1-2” will work, but the only way to get the space needed is some sort of offset.

 

[Reach4]

If I used that PushTite on your irregular surface, would put a non-hardening lube/sealant on the flaps. I would probably use Molykote 111 because I have it, but some other compound could be better. The point would to lubricate the flap flow into position easily and to fill any small gap due to an irregularity. The lube/sealant is probably not needed, but I would do it myself. I am not a plumber.

If you get that 889-GPOM, tell us what that distance below the flange to the red gasket is.

You may need to add something if your flooring does not reach the flange enough places. A repair flange that has ears could do that, or you could add concrete. Superior Model # 21015 repair ring has mounting tabs outside. PASCO 21013 is similar in red.

We like success photos.

 

[sdkool]

If I used that PushTite on your irregular surface, would put a non-hardening lube/sealant on the flaps. I would probably use Molykote 111 because I have it, but some other compound could be better. The point would to lubricate the flap flow into position easily and to fill any small gap due to an irregularity. The lube/sealant is probably not needed, but I would do it myself. I am not a plumber.

If you get that 889-GPOM, tell us what that distance below the flange to the red gasket is.

You may need to add something if your flooring does not reach the flange enough places. A repair flange that has ears could do that, or you could add concrete. Superior Model # 21015 repair ring has mounting tabs outside. PASCO 21013 is similar in red.

We like success photos.

Hello,
I finally received the 889-GPOM and will finish the install after work tomorrow. I was hoping you could give me some tips on the best way to install it.

So far I have chipped out the slap and have done a dry fit. The only problem I see is that the tile floor isn’t level. The front of the flange is about an 1/8”-3/16” lower than the back.

Questions:

1. Should I be worried about the flange being out of level and try to shim it to level it out or should I just worry about it when I install the toilet?
2. Should I fill in any gaps from when I chipped out the slab with patching compound or some kind of silicone before bolting it down? If so what kind of filler would you recommend?
3. Are there any special tricks to keep the holes from blowing out when drilling for tapcon screws? Some are pretty close to the edge. I can’t put any screws in the back of the flange.
4. When I am ready to do the final install should I apply silicone or anything to the gasket to insure a good seal?

Thanks again everyone for all the advice.