Constant pressure Grundfos system question

[Brucebrown2]

A bad check valve should have nothing to do with a pump running all the time. A bad check valve will cause the pump to come right back on and it has shut off, but won't keep it from shutting off.

That is a very common problem with the SQE/CU301 type system. They use the same wires the power goes down to the motor to send a radio signal back up to the controller. It is constantly losing the radio connection to the controller. Generation 1,2,3,4 all moved up the number of signal loss events before it even shows a fault. I think the new generation 8 or 9 versions now let it cycle 1000 times like a regular pressure switch before they even show a fault for loss of signal connection.

Those SQE pumps will work fine without the CU301 controller. We just use a Cycle Stop Valve to make them deliver constant pressure and replace the CU301 with a normal 40/60 pressure switch. Like in upper drawing of this link.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/csv-vs-vfd_1.html

I have a bad Cu301 controller that controlled my 22SQE-190 pump. I have been running the pump for a couple of years without the CU301 controller, but I'm having a problem with the torque from the start-up tearing the pipe apart close to the pump. Any solutions? With the 301 controller, it didn't start at full throttle but now using the standard pressure switch you can see the pipe jerk each time it turns on. I guess it is starting at full speed? I am looking at the
CS1PH1-2HP230V. CYCLE SENSOR w/ NEMA ENCLOSURE and the
CSV1A CYCLE STOP VALVE.
I have a unique system. It was already installed when I purchased the home. I have a three-foot diameter bored well approx. 300ft. from the home. 85 ft. deep with the water level about 10-15 ft below the top of the well. Plenty of water. The well is also about 45 ft. below the grade of the home. 1-1/2 pipe from the pump to the home. The controls are located uphill close to the house I took out the black pipe and installed sch. 40 PVC. I am about to install sch. 80 PVC. ?? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Reach4]

I cannot help with the too-fast start, but in a big dug well you should have a flow inducer. I can provide construction data on that if you like.

You don't have a check valve above the water, do you?

I don't think the CSV would have much effect on that start-up action.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Brucebrown2]

I cannot help with the too-fast start, but in a big dug well you should have a flow inducer. I can provide construction data on that if you like.

You don't have a check valve above the water, do you?

I don't think the CSV would have much effect on that start-up action.

Brass check valve mounted on top of the pump. Info about the flow inducer would be great. Thanks for your time.

 

[Reach4]

I was afraid you had added a check valve up top.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/lets-talk-inducer-sleeves.78342/#post-570428 is one of the threads that describes flow inducer construction. There are more choices, and putting "inducer" into the search box will turn up more.

For 3 inch pipe selection, see https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/franklin-c1-cistern-pump-mated-with-csv.95826/ #18 and #5

 

[Valveman]

The SQ pump should still have the 5 seconds slow start even without the CU301. However, using the little 2.2 gallon size tank without the CU301 or a Cycle Stop Valve will cause a tremendous amount of cycling on and off. Even with a soft start the sheer number of starts can torque the pipe and other things. Sch 40 is not good for hanging a pump anyway. You will have much better luck with sch 80 or 120 and metal couplings.

Adding the Cycle Sensor will protect your pump from a dry well condition or rapid cycling. Adding a CSV1A Cycle Stop Valve will stop the repetitive cycling on/off that causes most problems to begin with, and give you much stronger constant pressure.