Yar02169
Member
If memory serves me correctly, the name Appolo comes to mind for the brand.
Check valve substitute
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Ballvalve
General Engineering Contractor
About as good as it gets, so I would focus on other faults.
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Yar02169
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Life pushed this aside for a little bit, but now I'm back at it.
I took things apart, and pushed in the valve of the check valve, and it stuck open! A tap with a rod, and it easily enough closed. The operation resumed, so I figured I was all good. Went to the sink and filled the 'upstream' portion of the valve with water, and yup, it pissed it all out the other side. So, I'm back to picking your brains. It's a 1.5" Appollo stainless check valve. The sealing valve seems to be some sort of white material. I'm assuming it shouldn't leak, even at atmospheric pressure, correct? Is there a known way to refurbish the check valve, or is it done and needs replacing? With the silt issue in mind, which type of would be best, a ball or flap, or is there something else? My hope is that you will all agree on a certain type, but I think there will be choices, which is OK, there may be common factors that I will use in determining a replacement.
As always, thanks in advance.
I took things apart, and pushed in the valve of the check valve, and it stuck open! A tap with a rod, and it easily enough closed. The operation resumed, so I figured I was all good. Went to the sink and filled the 'upstream' portion of the valve with water, and yup, it pissed it all out the other side. So, I'm back to picking your brains. It's a 1.5" Appollo stainless check valve. The sealing valve seems to be some sort of white material. I'm assuming it shouldn't leak, even at atmospheric pressure, correct? Is there a known way to refurbish the check valve, or is it done and needs replacing? With the silt issue in mind, which type of would be best, a ball or flap, or is there something else? My hope is that you will all agree on a certain type, but I think there will be choices, which is OK, there may be common factors that I will use in determining a replacement.
As always, thanks in advance.
Not flap!
People have spoken well of Simmons and Flomatic check valves. https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/check-valve-ruptured.66622/
Yar02169
Member
It's a Apollo 1.5" SS ball cone valve.
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Yar02169
Member
Thanks, no flap. Would that also apply for a swing valve? I assume it's just a different term for a similar action, maybe with a metal "flapper" and better internal materials.
Yes, it applies. You want a spring-loaded poppet.
Yar02169
Member
OK, update time. Found the time to rebuild. I got a Simmons check valve, made multiple trips to the local Home Depot, and a few to Lowes for pvc pieces. HD is basically next door, but Lowes has a much better selection of pvc, I hate that.
Anyway, the check valve is now vertical, no loops for an air-lock on the intake side. Initial run, the pressure was low and bouncy, around 20 psi. I then noticed on the 3rd zone that pressure was up (35 psi), and things were running well. When the watering finished, the pump and zone shut off, and the gauge reads almost zero. I then heard the old gurgle sound of water running back down the well. I need to do some more checking though, tonight when i turned the system on, the pipes did release some pressure when the valve opened. The intake side seems to have lost prime, because it takes a minute before water begins to flow. Can one side of the pump be pressurized while the other side isn't? My guess is no
I did find a broken head in zone 1, so tomorrow I'll fix that and should have 35 psi in all zones. Good news is that the silt filter hasn't gotten any additional silt, so lord knows if the check valve is preventing back flow or not.
In the redesign, I did make a provision to add an additional 'silt dump' zone - purge the initial crap, then water the lawn. I have some cleaning of old parts around the pump, but here's a picture of the redesign. I have done a shaving cream check of all joints pre-pump, so the check valve should hold prime, I'll have to do more checking.
As always, you guys rock and have helped me immensely over the years, and for that I Thank You.
Anyway, the check valve is now vertical, no loops for an air-lock on the intake side. Initial run, the pressure was low and bouncy, around 20 psi. I then noticed on the 3rd zone that pressure was up (35 psi), and things were running well. When the watering finished, the pump and zone shut off, and the gauge reads almost zero. I then heard the old gurgle sound of water running back down the well. I need to do some more checking though, tonight when i turned the system on, the pipes did release some pressure when the valve opened. The intake side seems to have lost prime, because it takes a minute before water begins to flow. Can one side of the pump be pressurized while the other side isn't? My guess is no
I did find a broken head in zone 1, so tomorrow I'll fix that and should have 35 psi in all zones. Good news is that the silt filter hasn't gotten any additional silt, so lord knows if the check valve is preventing back flow or not.
In the redesign, I did make a provision to add an additional 'silt dump' zone - purge the initial crap, then water the lawn. I have some cleaning of old parts around the pump, but here's a picture of the redesign. I have done a shaving cream check of all joints pre-pump, so the check valve should hold prime, I'll have to do more checking.
As always, you guys rock and have helped me immensely over the years, and for that I Thank You.
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