Changed Flapper - Toilet tank still losing water - any ideas why?

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fsrph

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In this photo, it looks like the water fell to about the height of the original seat, and not to the bottom of the tank. That seems to me to suggest the sealant between the new black piece and the original seat is leaking. It could be that waiting longer would have made the water level drop further. In that case the problem would be the tank to bowl seal. But if the water stays as it is in this photo, I suspect the sealant was ineffective.
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That's was very observant of you. There was a small amount of water in the tank this morning - right up to the bottom edge of the flush valve. I kept the toilet water supply off most of the day and the tank water level did not decline further.

Francis
 

Flapper

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That's was very observant of you. There was a small amount of water in the tank this morning - right up to the bottom edge of the flush valve. I kept the toilet water supply off most of the day and the tank water level did not decline further.

Francis
It could either be leaking through the silicone sealant or the flapper.
 

fsrph

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An update.
Still didn't fix the problem yet but getting closer. Tried soaking the flapper (Korky red flapper) in hot water and that helped slow the water loss. Then I tried an experiment. After a flush when the tank was filled I shut off the water supply. Placed a 1 lb stone on top of the flapper. No loss of any water in 36 hours.
So where does that leave me? Should I try a different brand flapper or try weighting down the present one. In another thread someone suggested muranic acid (spelling may be off) in the drain tube to create better suction. Should I try this? Thanks for everyone's help.
Francis
 

Reach4

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Then I tried an experiment. After a flush when the tank was filled I shut off the water supply. Placed a 1 lb stone on top of the flapper. No loss of any water in 36 hours.
So where does that leave me? Should I try a different brand flapper or try weighting down the present one.
That does not fully vindicate the new seat glue seal, but would tend to point that way.

Feel the flush valve seat for any roughness. Non-standard, but you could put a very thin layer of plumber's silicone grease on the seat face. A new flapper with a softer material may do it. Make sure there is some slack in the chain, but not so much slack that there is any chance that the chain could get under the closing flapper. About one link or two of slack is usually about right.

If there is more than one hole in the actuator arm, see if a different hole gets the flapper to be pulled and released straighter. If the arm pulls the flapper off-center on its seat, you could bend the arm.
 

BarbaraE

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After trying all these suggestions, what worked for me is a small rubber band where the flapper attached to the flush valve. Even if the chain was placed correctly and flapper looked seated, the flapper would still move side to side and end up leaking after flushing. The rubber band keeps the flapper from moving horizontally without ruining the vertical motion. I used clear rubber bands from my daughter's braces. I needed one on each side for this toilet and only one on one side for the upstairs. It worked for me. Hope it works for someone else.

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Reach4

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Nice information. In case some did not see the little clear rubber band, as I did not initially, I put a red box around a section of your photo to emphasize the band.

For those getting things from a hardware store, I think a little O-ring would do that job too.
 

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