Can I plumb a toilet like this? What toilet?

[Kreemoweet]

What I meant about the tank: when they say they have a tank which "requires" a 2x6 wall, it may be they just mean it would take
a 2x6 wall to "hide" the dang thing, not that it couldn't be installed in a 2x4 wall, or modified 2x4 wall.

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

Ahhh okay yes, I see what you mean. Sorry, in my own mind I've gone back to a tank toilet. The problem with the back of the wall is that although I'd be able to box out pipes along the floor, it is going to be a closet with a large closet organizer - so having to make part of the wall 2x6 would mean an odd protrusion that would make the organizer difficult to install. And if I've got to build the wall "out" on the bathroom side, well the reason I was doing that was to save toilet depth; if I've got to add a couple inches because of the wall, well then I'm only 2 or so inches shorter than a regular toilet, except I've done a lot more work with wall framing and installing the tank, etc. Lazy ftw!

 

[Sponsor]

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

Well I've narrowed down to one wall-hung toilet, the Toto Aquia with in-wall carrier for 2x4 walls:

And one rear-outlet, standing toilet, the Happy D. 017009:

http://www.duravit.us/website/homepage/products/product_overview/series/happy_d.us-en.html/p-92891

Does anyone see any problem with existing either of those toilets as we're attempting to do? The Toto Aquia in particular seems to show the exit elbow flowing straight down into the subfloor.....I'm just not sure why it could not be angled instead...?

Many thanks guys, great advice and things to consider here.

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

Also, Signature Hardware has a number of "European rear-outlet" toilets listed for sale - not sure of the quality, but it's tough to find a bunch of these in one spot.

http://www.signaturehardware.com/class1661

 

[Jadnashua]

The carrier may not have room to run the pipe to the side...would need a different view to tell.

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

From the elbow joint, you mean? That's my problem as well - the elbow (and installation) shows it going straight down into the subfloor, between the carrier legs. I would have to go out for about 4 inches (to get around the carrier), and then angle off to the side along the wall.

Without seeing the thing it's tough to say....

 

[Terry]

a 3" pipe takes up all the space in a 2x4 wall. It's fine if you are dropping vertically.

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

Yes, we would have to go through the wall and then angle across. Like I said, cannot drop vertically below the floor level until about 30" to the side of the toilet.

 

[Terry]

Well.............depending on your wall mount, that will determine how thick that wall is going to be. To hang a bowl on a wall, the wall has to be strong enough to support the water in the tank, the bowl, and a 250 pound user. At the least you need that much. I have relatives and friends that would need a 400 pound support.

Many of the wall hung bowls done in the 60's, used a 2x8 wall.
A 2x6 wall could be done, but it was pretty minimal. And that was with doubled studs, done floor to ceiling.
In commercial buildings, I could use a cast iron support that I secured to the concrete floor, as the walls in those bathrooms were metal studs, and they don't hang any weight.

 

[shortcuttomoncton]

Yes, I agree Terry - I think we're going to go with a floor mount rear-outlet such as this one from Signature Hardware. It would have been questionable to have a 2x6 wall and then attempt to exit straight to the other side of it before starting to angle down....