cdherman
Member
I have a perfect spot for a utility room sink (left side), washer (middle) and dryer to the right. I'll be bringing over 3" schedule 40 pipe under the floor in a crawl space. Pex lines for hot cold. Crawl space is not heated and could possibly freeze even when the rooms above it are heated. If that happens, might have to resort to wrapping some heat tape around it. Plan is to run the pex right on the 3" drain pipe so that if I need to wrap with heat tape down the road, I can kill 2 birds at once. I am planning a switched outlet in the crawlspace while I am pulling wires just for that purpose.
In the room, I am planning to build a stub wall up to right under a window. I will leave the existing exterior wall untouched to reduce the risk of freezing. And opening up the old plaster lath wall would be a nightmare -- may as well take the whole wall out. Has blown in insulation so a mess. Into the stub wall I can do electrical and plumbing and then cover with drywall. On top, will go a nice shelf, integrated into the window sill which faces south and a great place for plants (in the event the house become inhabited year around)
Into the stub wall I figured to run 2" pipe to a drain hookup for the utility sink, and then above that, an air admittance valve. I'll run the pipe to the admittance valve in the wall well above the level of the drain of the utility sink, probably behind an access panel to make it look reasonably neat. A proper vent is not really an option, or at least not a pretty one, though I could potentially run a vent pipe into the attic via a pantry that is to the left of the utility room. Would have to be exposed pipe, but that room is nothing pretty anyhow.....
Properly, I would run a 2" down pipe and a trap for the washer as well. But here is where I am getting worried. Everyone that uses the house pretty much knows the routine to winterize. Pour RV antifreeze in the drains and toilet tank/bowl. But a hidden trap behind drywall behind a washer is going to get forgotten. And pouring the antifreeze into the washer hookup is not going to be easy.
So I am inclined to go old school and just drain the washer into the utility sink. Won't be as pretty, but more secure in the long run.
I could of course plumb things correctly with a down pipe and trap, and then fill the trap with RV antifreeze and NOT USE IT. That way if someone inhabits the house year round someday, they could switch over to the standard solution......
The house has a basement which is NOT under the utility room. Basement is frost free. Has a Manabloc system so the utility room can be also excluded independent of the kitchen, bath etc. Currently, when we leave, we shut off the water at the pressure tank in the basement, and there is a drain on the manabloc, and at the pressure tank. Those pretty much allow all the water to exit, especially if we open the faucets. But I worry about water in the washing machine hot/cold lines. I have a Samsung front loader with the front accessible drain. So the pump side of the washer will be drainable. However the hot and cold lines leading to the solenoid valves will not drain. Should I be worried?
There is no such thing out there as code, so whatever will work and be functional is the idea. Are my thoughts sane?
In the room, I am planning to build a stub wall up to right under a window. I will leave the existing exterior wall untouched to reduce the risk of freezing. And opening up the old plaster lath wall would be a nightmare -- may as well take the whole wall out. Has blown in insulation so a mess. Into the stub wall I can do electrical and plumbing and then cover with drywall. On top, will go a nice shelf, integrated into the window sill which faces south and a great place for plants (in the event the house become inhabited year around)
Into the stub wall I figured to run 2" pipe to a drain hookup for the utility sink, and then above that, an air admittance valve. I'll run the pipe to the admittance valve in the wall well above the level of the drain of the utility sink, probably behind an access panel to make it look reasonably neat. A proper vent is not really an option, or at least not a pretty one, though I could potentially run a vent pipe into the attic via a pantry that is to the left of the utility room. Would have to be exposed pipe, but that room is nothing pretty anyhow.....
Properly, I would run a 2" down pipe and a trap for the washer as well. But here is where I am getting worried. Everyone that uses the house pretty much knows the routine to winterize. Pour RV antifreeze in the drains and toilet tank/bowl. But a hidden trap behind drywall behind a washer is going to get forgotten. And pouring the antifreeze into the washer hookup is not going to be easy.
So I am inclined to go old school and just drain the washer into the utility sink. Won't be as pretty, but more secure in the long run.
I could of course plumb things correctly with a down pipe and trap, and then fill the trap with RV antifreeze and NOT USE IT. That way if someone inhabits the house year round someday, they could switch over to the standard solution......
The house has a basement which is NOT under the utility room. Basement is frost free. Has a Manabloc system so the utility room can be also excluded independent of the kitchen, bath etc. Currently, when we leave, we shut off the water at the pressure tank in the basement, and there is a drain on the manabloc, and at the pressure tank. Those pretty much allow all the water to exit, especially if we open the faucets. But I worry about water in the washing machine hot/cold lines. I have a Samsung front loader with the front accessible drain. So the pump side of the washer will be drainable. However the hot and cold lines leading to the solenoid valves will not drain. Should I be worried?
There is no such thing out there as code, so whatever will work and be functional is the idea. Are my thoughts sane?
