Best way to transition from 2" waterline to 1" waterline

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by Markus_AR, Jul 14, 2020.

  1. Markus_AR

    Markus_AR New Member

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    Post Falls
    I have a 2" waterline coming to the house. At the house I have a 1" waterline. Same material. What is the best way to transition? I am already having GPM issues (water pressure is fine 65+ psi (edited)).

    Let's focus on that first but here is the history.

    I have 23 GPM at the street after the water meter. A 350' run to the house, maybe an incline of 5' over that length. Out of the main in the house I am getting 6 GPM, if I am lucky. I am hoping that part of the problem is the turbulence from the current connection transition.

    -Markus

    [​IMG]

    chart added by Terry Love
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 14, 2020
  2. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

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    I don't think it's the coupling unless something got in the line somewhere. while the pipe was being installed.
     
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  4. fitter30

    fitter30 Active Member

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    At 23 gpm @35lbs at the street 2" pipe would have very little pressure drop 3 lbs. Think that 2x1 needs to be taken apart and a check flow there then you'll know if it's the 2" or 1" . That 1" line looks like the bend is pretty tight could it be kinked?
     
  5. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    What is between the 1 inch to the house and the first tee inside of the house? PRV? Filter? Valve, obviously.

    What faucet are you getting the 6 gpm at? What happens to that flow if you open an outdoor spigot a the same time?
     
  6. Markus_AR

    Markus_AR New Member

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    It just looks that way. It isn't actually bending right there, it is dirt (I just went outside to check).

    Yes, next week we are taking it apart (for a tee to a sprinkler system off the 2") and doing the GPM test. That may answer some questions.

    This is a good chance to change out that connection if there is a better way.
     
  7. Markus_AR

    Markus_AR New Member

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    inhouse.jpg
    Any faucet... We even unhooked the main inside that house and measured from there. All outdoor spigots go from the house. If I open a spigot one more time while my wife is taking a shower I may see divorce papers. ;) Water barely flows in the house if the outdoor spigot is open.

    No PRV.
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2020
  8. Sylvan

    Sylvan Still learning

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    plumbing - fire suppression - boiler inspector
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    New York
    When you can remove the galvanized strap and use copper or atleast place duct tape or some other insulatopr
     
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

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    Dynamic water pressure (differs from static) will vary depending on the size of the pipe, it's ID, the number of fittings along the way, the volume you're trying to draw, and the length. Friction throughout all of that will lower the pressure at the outlet when water is flowing (dynamic pressure)...the more volume, the faster it tries to flow, the more pressure drop from the increased friction. 35-psi isn't a huge amount to start with. Then, you may need to take into account any elevation changes. For example, what you may have in the basement where the water might come in will not be the same at a second (or higher!) story shower. The pressure will drop just from elevation change by approximately 0.43#/foot change. Most shower and faucet valves flow rates are based on like 60-psi, so you're starting off with maybe less than half of that depending on the dynamic and elevation effects.

    Are sprinkler heads being designed for 35-psi? You will need more of them, or a booster pump to get decent coverage if your pressure is 35-psi versus say 60.
     
  10. Markus_AR

    Markus_AR New Member

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    My apologies, my pressure is 68 mid day.
     
  11. Markus_AR

    Markus_AR New Member

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    Thanks all...... Are you ready for the conclusion?

    inpipe.jpg

    This is what we found in the pipe. either from the 1" at the street or the 1" into the house. It is a 1" temp pipe cap.

    So putting in a bell reducer solved our problem ;) (in that we found what was obstructing the flow)
     
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  12. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Nice. In retrospect, an electrical snake pushed up the pipe could have measured where the obstacle was.

    So the blockage was in the area of the post #6 or #1 photo?
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2020
  13. fitter30

    fitter30 Active Member

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    That ball valve where pipe transition to house piping either needs to be a full port or up size the valve to 1 1/4" .
     
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