Which pump to buy?

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog. Water is life.' started by Blake Faulkner, Jul 29, 2020.

  1. Blake Faulkner

    Blake Faulkner New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Location:
    Arizona
    So I had a well drilled a few months ago which ended up being roughly 165' deep and 6" steel casing with perfs. I am now ready to move forward with installing a submersible but I am having a hard time paying a well company so much money for something that doesn't seem too hard, in my opinion, so I am wanting to do this all myself. The well has not been sounded so I am planning on trying the coke bottle trick to get the depths myself. After this I would like to install a Grundfos pump down into the well but have a few questions first.

    1. .5 vs .75 HP pump? I have heard .75 would be better for direct line to house and .5 would be better with a cistern.
    2. SQ vs SQE? I believe the difference is just that the SQE is constant pressure, correct? Do I need this? I am planning on NOT having a cistern, pending GPM test is around 8-10. This should put me at about a 90 gallon pressure tank in the house.
    3. Do I need a 3" or 4" pump if my well casing is 6"?
    4. Traditional pipe vs Poly pipe? I have been wanting to use poly just because it looks much easier for a two person install without cranes, etc.
    5. I am assuming that a torque arrestor is still needed even with poly?
    6. Check valves. How many and at which locations for 155' set depth?
    Lastly, any recommendations on brands of poly, submersible cable, or any other pieces needed and where to buy them would be amazing. Thank you all for your input, I really appreciate the help.
     
  2. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    "retired" and still building and troubleshooting
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Poly pipe 1", 160 psi, any brand works. Use three USA made hose clamps, not the crap at home -demo https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036R4U6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Use a Grundfos pump head 4", not the constant pressure [=Constant failures] .... Franklin motor or the Grunfos 4" motor. No check valves or torque arrestor. Another good pump head is the all SS Myers with it's pentek motor or a Franklin. Several online sellers with good prices, devote a few hours to the shopping. Any dedicated well wire works, and I have used 12-3 UF cable as well, but some will object. I have a mile of 10g THHN single strand wire and thus have used that inside 1/2" 80 psi poly or utility grade. Others can talk about your pressure vessel and options. Check out You tube for splicing education.
     
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  4. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Even though your pump will be set at 155', it is only lifting from the water level. But if you figure lifting from 155', you will need a 3/4HP in the 10 GPM series to get 7-10 GPM at 50 PSI pressure. Grundfos makes good pumps and 3 wire motors, but not 2 wire motors. A 10S07-12 pump end with a 3/4HP, 3 wire motor, and control box would be best. Meyers and several others make copies of the Stainless Steel Grundfos pump end. Matching any of these SS pumps with a Franklin motor is a good combo, but I don't like the Franklin pump ends.

    An 86 gallon tank only holds 20 gallons of water. If you want good constant pressure, your pump to last longer, and the ability to use a much smaller and less expensive tank you should install a Cycle Stop Valve or better yet one of the complete PK1A kits.

    pk1a-md.jpg
     
  5. Blake Faulkner

    Blake Faulkner New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Location:
    Arizona
    I believe that I will be installing a pk1 kit later down in the process for sure. Does it need to have an SQ or SQE pump, or either to make it work? Also, do you think that installing the pump with poly pipe with an arrestor should be fine? I know the pump has a built in check valve but would it be wise for me to install another one maybe just outside of the well head? Thanks for the input. I will most likely go with the Grundfos 3/4HP, 10GPM, 3 wire pump. Should it be the 3" or 4" model?
     
  6. Blake Faulkner

    Blake Faulkner New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Location:
    Arizona
    Thank you! This may be a stupid question but what exactly is the difference between the pump and the motor? I thought it was all in one? So no check valves or arrestor at all, will it last for many years that way? Also, would you recommend using a barb connector along with the hose clamps?

    I watched this video which is what made me start looking into doing this myself.

     
  7. valveman

    valveman Cary Austin Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Occupation:
    Pump Controls Technician
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Stick with the 4" SP series instead of the 3" SQ when possible. With the kit all you need to do is make sure your pump can't build more pressure than your pipe can handle, which usually isn't a problem.
     
  8. Blake Faulkner

    Blake Faulkner New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2020
    Location:
    Arizona
  9. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    Motor must be submersible.
     
  10. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Occupation:
    "retired" and still building and troubleshooting
    Location:
    northfork, california
    Motor on the same website: https://www.pumpproducts.com/frankl...tor-3-4-hp-230-volts-3-wire-single-phase.html But the 1hp is less money and then you can buy a CRC control box. The pump and motor will cost less preassembled which I think you should use: https://www.pumpproducts.com/grundf...450-rpm-13-72-gpm-max-334-55-ft-max-head.html Not sure this is perfect for your well, I am just showing an example. Her is a Myers from Delavan Wisconsin I believe: https://www.pumpproducts.com/myers-...est-efficiency-flow-stainless-steel-body.html and a 3/4 https://www.pumpproducts.com/myers-...est-efficiency-flow-stainless-steel-body.html control box for 3/4. If using the 1HP I would get a "1 to 1-1/2" hp large size control box https://www.pumpproducts.com/frankl...r-3-wire-motors-indoor-outdoor-enclosure.html Here is the large box, and it seems they are they are rated for 1 AND 1.5 hp pumps. https://www.pumpproducts.com/frankl...r-3-wire-motors-indoor-outdoor-enclosure.html At least the 3 that I run are.
    I would get the stuff ready and get someone to help that has done this before.
     
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