Water Heater Connection Options

Users who are viewing this thread

BrandonInIdaho

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
CDA, ID
Hi All,

I have 1" PEX that I need to connect a water heater to. I know there are some push to connect options for this but I am running into a length issue with those. For the cold water I need about a 24" length and about a 36" for the hot. The water heater has a 3/4" NPT which I think is pretty standard.

I am thinking of going with one of these for the valve
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-pex-x-mpt-threaded-ball-valve-lead-free
https://www.pexuniverse.com/1-pex-threaded-brass-ball-valve-lead-free

Now here is where I get a little more unsure. I was wanting to use FALCON connecters and there are lots of options.

Option 1.
I think I could use an FF-24 (or 36). This is 3/4" FIP on both sides, so I think I would have to use a 1"NPT to 3/4"NPT nipple at the valve.

Option 2.
I use SWC1-24 (or 36). This is a 1"FIP on both sides, so I think I would have to use a 1"NPT to 3/4"NPT reducer/bushing at the hot water heater.

I like Option 2 as I think it would be a 'cleaner' looking installation and the restriction happens as close to the water heater as possible, but I am worried that I might get a leak with the bushing connection? FALCON hose is stainless, the bushing is probably brass, and the water heater is probably a galvanized pipe? Will the dissimilar materials cause a problem right at the water heater?

I think those hoses normally have a rubber seal in them that makes the connection water tight, with the reducer bushing I would have to use teflon tape from the water heater 3/4" NPT to the bushing and then the hose would seal on the bushing, will this work? Or is Option 1 the better option.... or is there a different way I should be doing it altogether?

Thanks,
Brandon
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,892
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
IMO, running 1 inch PEX to your valve, optionally more PEX, and running 18-inch 3/4 Falcon connectors to your WH would be very good. Also, tee off for your thermal expansion tank, unless you have a well.

I would not run pex right to the WH, even if rules in your area allowed that. I am not a plumber.

1" SharkBite x 1" FNPT Ball Valve could be useful. Maybe you would find something that fit your needs better.
 
Last edited:

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,892
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
You could use that bushing, but the Falcon 3/4 is plenty big inside IMO. That bushing idea would seem helpful if you were using a connector with smaller diameter.

If you think about what will be involved when you change that WH in 20 years, moving the bushing (or getting a new bushing) seems like an extra step or so.

If the WH is new, I would try loosening the anode while the WH is new if you think you will ever want to pull the anode. They put those things much tighter than needed, and time+deposits tighten it even more. I would use PTFE tape on the reinstall, and only torque to maybe 15 or 20 ft-lb...
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Is the WH gas or electric? In general, you can't run PEX to a gas WH. Some don't want you to run it to an electric one. You need a length of approved material piping to transition that will act as a radiator in case the WH overheats. PEX is good for up to about 180-degrees. The T&P valve doesn't open until 210-degrees. Obviously, normal operations, it should never approach the PEX limits. On a gas WH, though, the exhaust to the flue can get pretty warm, which is why it can't be used there.
 

BrandonInIdaho

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
CDA, ID
It is a gas water heater. I plan on using FALCON hose connectors in a length of 24" for the incoming cold and 36" for the hot. I think the PEX can't be closer than 18" so I should be good there. Really I am just trying to decide if I use a 1" hose with a 1" valve and reduce to 3/4" right at the water heater, or use a 3/4" hose with a 3/4" valve and reduce just before the valve... Or some combination of that.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks