Toto Entrada fill valve issues

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by Gregg G, Jan 25, 2021.

  1. Gregg G

    Gregg G Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2017
    Location:
    Harstine Island , WA
    After doing a lot of research and reading a lot about Terry's opinions/testing/experience,
    I installed 2 Toto Entrada toilets in our new home about 2-1/2 years ago. I think they
    are fabulous. Very efficient, and very good performance. Someone does a "double-flush"
    only about 1 in 50 (so mostly operator error, LOL!).

    Anyway, 1 of the toilets is used about 75% of the time (maybe 12-16 flushes per day),
    and the second toilet is used only 25% of the time (maybe 4-5 flushes per day).

    Recently, the second toilet started acting up. When you trip the lever the bowl flushes,
    but the valve appears not to start flowing any water at all for 10-12 seconds. It flushes
    and is then "quiet" for 10-12 seconds when it "suddenly" starts to allow water to flow.
    After it starts, it seems to fill normally, but is louder than normal. I haven't found a
    thread with a similar problem, so thought I would post about it.

    This afternoon, I'll take the cap off and see if there is something interfering with the
    float, etc. I noticed in some older threads, that Terry recommends "only" replacing
    the cap, if possible. Now there's a bit of alphabet soup over the last several years.
    528T, 528MPK, 528PRO, 528GT, R528, etc.

    Lowe's has the 528MPK fill valve (for only $9.98), the 528X (for $14.98) and
    "online only" they'll sell you the TSU99A.X (for $30.01). Curiously, the R528
    "cap only" repair is not available in store or online at Lowe's any more.
    R528 is available at a couple of the True Value stores nearby for around $4,99
    (and in stock). Online, SupplyHouse has the R528 in stock for $1.69 (but
    shipping is $4.95). Ferguson's has the 528PRO in stock for about $21 (if they'll
    sell to me retail - I think they will).

    Anyway, if I can't fix the problem by removing/cleaning the cap/float, I'd like
    to know what is recommended for repair procedure. Simply try and replace the
    "cap", or replace the whole shebang. And if I replace the entire fill valve,
    what the heck is the difference between all the models and which is the
    currently recommended unit? I'm assuming that there is some difference
    between the models, but it sure is crazy that there are now about a dozen
    different "models" with 528 in the spec.

    Kindest regards,
    Gregg G.
     
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2004
    Occupation:
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    Location:
    New England
    That is a symptom of the rubber in the cap getting hard. Depending on your water quality, it can last anywhere from a year to over 10. As the rubber in the flexible seal ages and stiffens, it is slow to react, and eventually, will crack, and then it won't shut off. From my experience with four Toto toilets over the last 20-years, the cap replacement will resolve your problem. Note too, that if the water quality is such that that happens after a shorter interval, you may want to pick up some spare flapper valves, too. When new, the outer rim runs straight out. As the rubber ages, that flat becomes more like a cone. Eventually, it will sink into the seat enough, where it won't seal properly. When you take the cap off, you'll see that it has been molded to the grid. WHen new, it's a smooth surface. OVer time, it gets shaped through pressure against the stop, and that can also cause it to stick a little, giving you the delayed start to the refill. Ace Hardware carries it. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/toilets/toilet-repair-parts/4064531 HD used to, as did Lowes, but I don't see it on their websites any more. You can order it through Walmart, but it costs more than at Ace, where you should be able to pick it up, also, any decent plumbing supply shop should have them as well.

    [​IMG]

    The cap seal will also fail quicker if your water pressure is high. You may want to pick up a gauge if you don't have one, and check yours. You can buy one with a hose bib fitting on it, and you could then install it temporarily on say a washing machine feed, an outdoor hose bib, or the drain of the WH (careful, it will get hot!). If your pressure exceeds 80psi, you should get a pressure reduction valve and an expansion tank to drop it down. I prefer to get a gauge with a second, tattle-tale hand and leave it attached for 24-hours at least to see if the pressure spikes any time during that period. Depending on how your water is delivered, over night, they may raise the pressure to refill any water towers in the area, so what you see during the day may not reflect what is there overnight. watts water pressure gauge with tattle tale hand.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 26, 2021
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  4. Gregg G

    Gregg G Member

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2017
    Location:
    Harstine Island , WA
    Thanks, jadnashua. I was in fact able to purchase the cap at the local Ace store. I replaced the cap (which had molded to the grid pattern as you
    said), and now it work perfectly! Well, almost perfect - the flapper was closing too soon and did seem hard, so I replaced that as well with a
    Korky 3060 that Terry recommends. After that, I was able to get the water spot a little bigger and it works great.

    Thanks again for your reply! And thanks to Terry for the forum and all his advice!

    Gregg G.
     
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