Gregg G
Member
After doing a lot of research and reading a lot about Terry's opinions/testing/experience,
I installed 2 Toto Entrada toilets in our new home about 2-1/2 years ago. I think they
are fabulous. Very efficient, and very good performance. Someone does a "double-flush"
only about 1 in 50 (so mostly operator error, LOL!).
Anyway, 1 of the toilets is used about 75% of the time (maybe 12-16 flushes per day),
and the second toilet is used only 25% of the time (maybe 4-5 flushes per day).
Recently, the second toilet started acting up. When you trip the lever the bowl flushes,
but the valve appears not to start flowing any water at all for 10-12 seconds. It flushes
and is then "quiet" for 10-12 seconds when it "suddenly" starts to allow water to flow.
After it starts, it seems to fill normally, but is louder than normal. I haven't found a
thread with a similar problem, so thought I would post about it.
This afternoon, I'll take the cap off and see if there is something interfering with the
float, etc. I noticed in some older threads, that Terry recommends "only" replacing
the cap, if possible. Now there's a bit of alphabet soup over the last several years.
528T, 528MPK, 528PRO, 528GT, R528, etc.
Lowe's has the 528MPK fill valve (for only $9.98), the 528X (for $14.98) and
"online only" they'll sell you the TSU99A.X (for $30.01). Curiously, the R528
"cap only" repair is not available in store or online at Lowe's any more.
R528 is available at a couple of the True Value stores nearby for around $4,99
(and in stock). Online, SupplyHouse has the R528 in stock for $1.69 (but
shipping is $4.95). Ferguson's has the 528PRO in stock for about $21 (if they'll
sell to me retail - I think they will).
Anyway, if I can't fix the problem by removing/cleaning the cap/float, I'd like
to know what is recommended for repair procedure. Simply try and replace the
"cap", or replace the whole shebang. And if I replace the entire fill valve,
what the heck is the difference between all the models and which is the
currently recommended unit? I'm assuming that there is some difference
between the models, but it sure is crazy that there are now about a dozen
different "models" with 528 in the spec.
Kindest regards,
Gregg G.
I installed 2 Toto Entrada toilets in our new home about 2-1/2 years ago. I think they
are fabulous. Very efficient, and very good performance. Someone does a "double-flush"
only about 1 in 50 (so mostly operator error, LOL!).
Anyway, 1 of the toilets is used about 75% of the time (maybe 12-16 flushes per day),
and the second toilet is used only 25% of the time (maybe 4-5 flushes per day).
Recently, the second toilet started acting up. When you trip the lever the bowl flushes,
but the valve appears not to start flowing any water at all for 10-12 seconds. It flushes
and is then "quiet" for 10-12 seconds when it "suddenly" starts to allow water to flow.
After it starts, it seems to fill normally, but is louder than normal. I haven't found a
thread with a similar problem, so thought I would post about it.
This afternoon, I'll take the cap off and see if there is something interfering with the
float, etc. I noticed in some older threads, that Terry recommends "only" replacing
the cap, if possible. Now there's a bit of alphabet soup over the last several years.
528T, 528MPK, 528PRO, 528GT, R528, etc.
Lowe's has the 528MPK fill valve (for only $9.98), the 528X (for $14.98) and
"online only" they'll sell you the TSU99A.X (for $30.01). Curiously, the R528
"cap only" repair is not available in store or online at Lowe's any more.
R528 is available at a couple of the True Value stores nearby for around $4,99
(and in stock). Online, SupplyHouse has the R528 in stock for $1.69 (but
shipping is $4.95). Ferguson's has the 528PRO in stock for about $21 (if they'll
sell to me retail - I think they will).
Anyway, if I can't fix the problem by removing/cleaning the cap/float, I'd like
to know what is recommended for repair procedure. Simply try and replace the
"cap", or replace the whole shebang. And if I replace the entire fill valve,
what the heck is the difference between all the models and which is the
currently recommended unit? I'm assuming that there is some difference
between the models, but it sure is crazy that there are now about a dozen
different "models" with 528 in the spec.
Kindest regards,
Gregg G.