Toilet Flange too high

[Maxxfusion]

I am finally getting around to remodeling my mater bathroom. It still had the original tile floor from being built in 77. Now the toilet flange sits too high. I had to remove and replace most of the sub floor as it was damaged. So i have access to all pipes. I did cut the toilet ABS and add a coupler and new 90 street.

From the pics attached you can see here that when i put my level next to the toilet flange they are level. My level measures 2 1/8" thick. Once i add my subfloor that only takes away 3/4". So i am still 1 3/8" over the sub floor.

My question is can i cut the 90 street down some and also cut the abs flange? The new flange will sit over the 3" elbow. the problem is i cant cut too much because it will bottom out on the curve.

Should i have gone with a 3 to 4 closet elbow and had the toilet flange sit inside the 4" elbow?

What is my best option?

 

[Reach4]

The flange usually sits atop the top of the finished floor.

So what is it that you have? A 3-inch bend with a hub? Your last picture shows a piece of unglued 3 in pipe in that hub for illustration purposes? I think a 3 inch ABS spigot hub would be good for gluing into the hub. I would prefer one with a stainless steel ring.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Breplum]

Frankly, as you know, the tee is too high. We only use cast iron above first floor. I 100 per cent agree: Stainless steel ring on closet flange, NOT an ABS ring.

 

[Maxxfusion]

Yes i just wanted to include all pics. Nothing is glued yet.

The last pic is the elbow sticking out of the sub floor. I wanted to show an up close pic to see how high it extends up.

This is what i got from HD for the elbow. 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Spigot Street Elbow Fitting

I was looking for a stainless steel ring but coudnt find one locally.

Since the pipe is so short i dont have much room. It seems that my only option to lower is cut about 1" off the elbow and probaly will also need to cut 1" off the flange. Otherwise i dont think it sit low enough on the elbow before hitting the angle.

I just wanted to confirm that its ok to do this and my best option?

 

[Reach4]

The last pic is the elbow sticking out of the sub floor. I wanted to show an up close pic to see how high it extends up.

This is what i got from HD for the elbow. 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Spigot Street Elbow Fitting

I was looking for a stainless steel ring but coudnt find one locally.

Since the pipe is so short i dont have much room. It seems that my only option to lower is cut about 1" off the elbow and probaly will also need to cut 1" off the flange. Otherwise i dont think it sit low enough on the elbow before hitting the angle.

I just wanted to confirm that its ok to do this and my best option?

I thought Ohio was more PVC than ABS...

Enough depth after the finished floor is in for this one?

JONES STEPHENS 3 in. x 2 in. No Caulk Code Blue Cast Iron Water Closet (Toilet) Flange for Cast Iron or Plastic Pipe C40-320 - The Home Depot

Jones Stephens has built its reputation over the years as a leader in the plumbing industry, providing the market with thousands of products to complete any project. If you need it, we got it. The No Caulk Code Blue Closet Flange makes installment quick and clean with no caulking involved and...

www.homedepot.com

The Brooklyn, OH HD has these in stock: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-F...Cap-and-Stainless-Steel-Ring-435912/305248438

Add finished flooring stuff to your measuring mockup.

 

[Maxxfusion]

I thought Ohio was more PVC than ABS...

Enough depth after the finished floor is in for this one?

JONES STEPHENS 3 in. x 2 in. No Caulk Code Blue Cast Iron Water Closet (Toilet) Flange for Cast Iron or Plastic Pipe C40-320 - The Home Depot

Jones Stephens has built its reputation over the years as a leader in the plumbing industry, providing the market with thousands of products to complete any project. If you need it, we got it. The No Caulk Code Blue Closet Flange makes installment quick and clean with no caulking involved and...

www.homedepot.com

The Brooklyn, OH HD has these in stock: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-F...Cap-and-Stainless-Steel-Ring-435912/305248438

Add finished flooring stuff to your measuring mockup.

What is the first part you linked? I did see that store has an abs flange with stainless ring.

My house was but in the 70s and they used abs. I think everything has converted to pvc a while ago.

 

[Reach4]

Functionally both ABS and PVC work similarly. You normally continue with whatever the existing plumbing is.

That Code Blue flange is an outside compression flange. It would seal to a 3 inch pipe by compression. Compression flanges can be removed and reinstalled, but with glue you have to get it right the first time. But I don't know the dimensions. If you buy one, tell us the dimensions that would affect fit. Your street bend has the same size as a 3-inch pipe on the part that will stick up. Is that enough info to explain the code blue? You would have to saw out clearance in your subfloor and floor. Whether you could use that would depend on how thick your flooring is. It seems unlikely there would be enough clearance.

I wonder how a flange with a 45 degree output would fit. Sounds tight. Why is your toilet drain line so high?

Did you understand my "finished floor" references?

 

[Maxxfusion]

Functionally both ABS and PVC work similarly. You normally continue with whatever the existing plumbing is.

That Code Blue flange is an outside compression flange. It would seal to a 3 inch pipe by compression. Compression flanges can be removed and reinstalled, but with glue you have to get it right the first time. But I don't know the dimensions. If you buy one, tell us the dimensions that would affect fit. Your street bend has the same size as a 3-inch pipe on the part that will stick up. Is that enough info to explain the code blue? You would have to saw out clearance in your subfloor and floor. Whether you could use that would depend on how thick your flooring is. It seems unlikely there would be enough clearance.

I wonder how a flange with a 45 degree output would fit. Sounds tight. Why is your toilet drain line so high?

Did you understand my "finished floor" references?

Ya I get it. In my op you see the floor that came out. It's the old school tile with the this mortar base. Has the screen in it on top of tar paper.

On the opposite side of this toilet is my main bath. It's OK there probaly because I used 1/4" hard board and tile. This bathroom is going to get lvp.

My plan is to cut an inch off the elbow pipe that comes up through the floor and cut an inch off the toilet flange and see how it fits together.

My other option is cut off the street elbow I put on and replace with a 4x3 closet elbow. Then my toilet flange will fit inside the 4" pipe.

 

[Reach4]

There are 4-inch inside compression flanges too. However I suspect they would all require more vertical distance.

 

[Maxxfusion]

There are 4-inch inside compression flanges too. However I suspect they would all require more vertical distance.

So do you think my best option is to order the compression fitting you linked to and use that?

Should I cut the elbow even with the sub floor?

 

[Reach4]

The elbow would have to be much lower than the floor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204267268665 has a photo from a different perspective than most. The sealing against the pipe is low. And I fear that you would find there is not enough depth on the spigot (pipe-sized) part.

Jones Stephens C40320 is called a 3x2-inch version. I cannot find a drawing that shows what measures 2 inches. If you do order one, please take dimensions for us. But I really think it likely it would turn out to not fit.

Note that under IPC, which I think applies to you, 3 inch only needs a 1/8 inch per foot slope. So if that let you get more depth, that could help. But that said, 1/4 inch per foot would seem better if you have the room.

Here is a past thread that seems to parallel your situation: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/copper-flange-90-replacement-problem.104300/

 

[Jeff H Young]

did you look at a standard 4 inch spigotx3 inch bend?

 

[Maxxfusion]

The elbow would have to be much lower than the floor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204267268665 has a photo from a different perspective than most. The sealing against the pipe is low. And I fear that you would find there is not enough depth on the spigot (pipe-sized) part.

Jones Stephens C40320 is called a 3x2-inch version. I cannot find a drawing that shows what measures 2 inches. If you do order one, please take dimensions for us. But I really think it likely it would turn out to not fit.

Note that under IPC, which I think applies to you, 3 inch only needs a 1/8 inch per foot slope. So if that let you get more depth, that could help. But that said, 1/4 inch per foot would seem better if you have the room.

Here is a past thread that seems to parallel your situation: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/copper-flange-90-replacement-problem.104300/

Thanks. I will read through that other post later. I am also going to order the part you linked from home depot. I can return of it doesn't work. It wouldn't get here until the 11th though.

I don't think I can change the pitch. If you zoom in on the photo above with the level you see the pipe is only 15" and goes right into the 4 way tee to the main sewer line. I am trying to avoid messing with that tee because it would be a bear to replace or repair.

 

[Maxxfusion]

did you look at a standard 4 inch spigotx3 inch bend?

I thought about this option as well. I was wondering if I could get enough depth in the 4" elbow

 

[Reach4]

I thought about this option as well. I was wondering if I could get enough depth in the 4" elbow

The critical dimension I think is from the underside of the flange, where it meets the finished floor, and the bottom of the ring. That distance will change a bit. It will be bigger when the black gasket can fit over the pipe/spigot, and will get smaller as the bottom ring gets drawn up to tighten the black gasket.

So this dimension will need to clear the bend, while the flange is pressed tight against the finished floor.

The flooring would have to be cut, probably with a jig saw, to clear the pieces.

 

[Maxxfusion]

Here is a past thread that seems to parallel your situation: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/copper-flange-90-replacement-problem.104300/

I read through this thread. Here is some info I was looking for.

**** A typical 4" solvent weld joint uses a hub depth of 1-3/4", so 1-3/4" of overlap would be best if that will fit. 1-1/2" will be fine. 1-1/4", maybe fine? 1" not sure? Those are beyond my experience.

I think that I can cut a little off and be OK. I am going to test and see how it goes. I am going to pickup the stainless abs flange anyway.