Toilet Flange Help

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Dean135

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I'm about to put cement board down on my subfloor before tiling and I noticed that my PVC toilet flange had a crack on the top. This crack is where the bolt would go to bolt the toilet to the ground. It doesn't feel like it's going to break off presently but I suppose it might in the future. The crack does NOT extend down into the flange so I believe I'd get a good seal with my wax ring.

I'm new to plumbing so I'm going to describe my situation but might not use the proper terms. The present flange appears to be solvent welded on the outside of the spigot end of a 3" - 90 degree street elbow. I really don't want to open up the subfloor to change out the plumbing because I spent a lot of time making it flat for tiling and I'd likely have to re-do a lot of work. I don't have access from below without opening up the ceiling. I'm trying to decide between two options (unless I'm advised that I should do something else): (1) install a metal repair ring or (2) cut off the current flange flush with the spigot end of the elbow (leaving the portion of the flange that wraps around the pipe) and install an inside fit 3" toilet flange. I've heard that these inside fit flanges can be tricky so I wanted some advice. I generally prefer replacing rather than repairing but I don't want to create new problems for myself. Current flange is at least 20 years old.

This is part of a bathroom remodel and I haven't purchased a toilet yet.
 
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Tommy123

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I'm also thinking about putting in a 3" inside fit closet flange. I'm only marginally worried about the smaller dimension. In another post, Terry indicated that the outflow from most toilets is between 2 1/8 - 2 3/8 inches. The Oatey inside fit flange has an ID of 2.77 inches so that doesn't seem to cut the flow much and seems to be adequate for most low-flow toilets but I'm not terribly experienced in these matters so I posted the question.
 

Reach4

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Repair ring. There are various choices.
 
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