Supply valve too close

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by donnatah, Jun 30, 2013.

  1. donnatah

    donnatah New Member

    Jun 30, 2013
    The supply valve on my toilet is 1" off centerline of the toilet. I am thinking of ordering a new Toto Drake CST744EG (elongated bowl), but concerned the supply valve will hit the trap at the back of the bowl.


    Does anyone know the clearance from the trap at the back of the bowl to the wall. Or conversely, does someone make low profile supply valve.

    Thanks for the help and thanks for the great information in this forum.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 19, 2014
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Sep 2, 2004
    Retired Systems engineer for defense industry.
    New England
    Dahl makes a right-angle shutoff valve, that, should you need one, would solve that issue. I'd try what you have - it may fit. But, it's not a bad idea to change the shutoff and hose when you replace a toilet, especially if the valve is a multi-turn valve verses a 1/4-turn one.
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  4. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Sep 1, 2004
    Yakima WA
    Water supply location specs can be a bit confusing. The recommended location would place the supply directly below the toilet inlet. However, with the use of the right angle valve as Jim describes and a flexible supply line, these specs are not absolutes. If you were going to use a solid supply pipe that has to be custom bent to fit, then you might have a problem.
  5. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Apr 27, 2012
    New York, NY
    The base of the bowl of the original Drake (CST744S or SG in your case) extends just about 10.5" towards the wall from the center of the closet bolts. You get a smidge more as you get higher above the floor as there is a slight angle to the porcelain away from the wall. So if you're on a 12" rough-in, you have about 1.5" between the base and the wall. I can't tell from your photo, but it looks like you might have more than that sticking out right now.

    Here's the brochure for the Dahl valve Jim was talking about.

    It comes in various styles and various attachment methods (i.e. compression, sweat, etc.). If that's a piece of copper pipe coming out of your wall, attaching a compression angle stop like the Dahl valve should be pretty straightforward. Depending on your skill set, you could just put a 90 on there, although the Dahl solution probably looks a little more aesthetically-pleasing.

    Good luck and let us know if we can help.
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