Stuck Well Pump / Cut Well Casing / Broken Riser Pipe / Rust

[Brian Mils]

Long time lurker, first time poster. What a mess, I'm not sure where to start. We are expecting our 2nd child and will have to pay out of pocket for the birth because of insurance BS. So I was trying to save some money by replacing the well pump myself. I'm very handy and didn't think it would take more than a day.....max.

4 days later......no water and a stuck pump.

Central Indiana
4" steel well casing
Unknown well depth but believed to be around 50'
Submersible pump approximately 21 years old
No safety rope

The problems started with rust. The 4" casing is sloughing off rust from the ID. I had to ShopVac out about 10-12" of rust from the top of the pitless just to see it. I'm sure there is a lot more rust chunks in the water and on top of the pump.

The circa 1973 pitless adapter would not release it's locking bar, I may have sheered the bolt that releases the locking bar, IDK. Had to dig a pit about 48" deep to get down to cut off the well casing below the pitless. Once, more likely before when we were pulling on the pipe, the casing was cut I found the water riser pipe to be broken (1" PVC) at one of the couplings. Luckily the pump didn't fall deeper in the well and I do have the electrical wires and can get a rope around the PVC.

I tried raising the pump with the wires and rope around the PVC with an engine hoist but get no real vertical movement and just managed to snap another coupler off the PVC. I'm afraid to pull too much harder with the hoist and breaking more of the pipe or worst yet the wire.

What are my options besides calling in the pros? I'm considering blowing out the well with air or using acid or a combination of both.

A couple of specific questions.

- Is a 120psi Craftsman air compressor with 1/4" adapters, 3/8" hose adapted to 1" poly enough to blow out a 50'ish well?
- If I use muriatic acid or hydrochloric acid how do I neutralize it in the well?
- Since I had to dig a 48" deep pit how do I get the sludge out of the hole and dispose of it safely?

I've researched these questions but have not been able to find useful answers. I'm not afraid to put in the work but an a little beyond stressed at this point, any help you can offer would be very appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[Reach4]

Is a 120psi Craftsman air compressor with 1/4" adapters, 3/8" hose adapted to 1" poly enough to blow out a 50'ish well?

No. They use a big compressor, such as a 175 CFM or bigger usually. It's CFM and not PSI.

A smaller compressor can often operate an air lift pump. Search for that. See Youtube videos. https://terrylove.com/forums/index....dvice-please-borehole-supply-in-the-uk.61806/ shows successful use of an air lift pump to lift fine sand.

If I use muriatic acid or hydrochloric acid how do I neutralize it in the well?

I am thinking you don't want to do that, but if you did, sodium hydroxide would be good. Don't breath what comes off. Baking soda is milder, but that might make a precipitate.

Since I had to dig a 48" deep pit how do I get the sludge out of the hole and dispose of it safely?

The sludge you speak of is not hazardous until you add your hydrochloric or other strong chemical. So put it into a pile to let it drain out, and then put it in a garbage bag, or maybe bury it in another hole.

I am not a pro.

There are things that are worth borrowing money for. A new car is not usually one of them. A new well probably is.

I was told of somebody who would intentionally postpone going to the hospital, and the paramedics were free. I am not suggesting that.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Craigpump]

The casing is 4" ID the pump motor is 3.875 OD. At this point enough of the rust sloughing off has the pump jammed in there tight. A well service company can come in and may be able to retrieve the pump, pipe and wire but at what cost? What if they are not able to save the well but have burned up your cash?

If you were my customer I'd advise you to drill a well.

Btw, a rope would do you no good at all. If you think you need a saftey rope, you should buy better pipe.

 

[Valveman]

I don't know why anyone would use 4" casing, especially steel. There is such little room between the casing and pump that it doesn't take much sluffing off to lock the pump in the well. Even 4" PVC can swell or contract and lock the pump in the well. I would use at least 5" PVC casing. And like Craingpump says, just as well drill a new one and fill in the money pit. It would be a lot easier to do the pump yourself if the well wasn't giving such problems.

 

[Reach4]

The other thing that is often done is to replace the pump with a "3 inch" (2.9 inch) pump. I worry that the speed of over 10000 RPM might not hold up, but a lot of people use them.

 

[Craigpump]

The other thing that is often done is to replace the pump with a "3 inch" (2.9 inch) pump. I worry that the speed of over 10000 RPM might not hold up, but a lot of people use them.

They wet ends hold up better than you would think. It isn't a reciprocating engine with a rotating mass, keep it lubed and pump clean water the wet end will last forever. Not sure about the motors.

 

[Brian Mils]

After messing around with it some more I have decided to abandon the well and have a new one drilled. Timing sucks but tis life.