Replacing Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve - Water supply is solid copper...how much can I flex that?

[saabturbodrivr]

Hi folks,

My dishwasher has a slow leak, even when it is not being used. I took a look under there, and it is clearly the water inlet valve (WD15X10014). I watched some videos...seems like something I can easily replace myself. part is cheap enough.

I noticed that the water supply going into it , which is diverted off of the sink (luckily it has its own shut off), is copper (like thin copper, and it is curved to get to the input. All of the videos I see have a water supply line that's braided stainless steel and flexible. How careful do I need to be with this line when I unhook it from the elbow that goes into the water inlet valve. This is the only thing giving me some pause. Ideally I'd like to be able to take apart/hook everything back up with the dishwasher pulled out/tilted for easy access...but I presume I will have to do it in place?

Thanks!

 

[saabturbodrivr]

I guess if the existing copper is no good or a pain to deal with, something like this would be appropriate?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-8-...yfJCos3bzfEJEpvWB4px3_V8S2RrU5_xoCWogQAvD_BwE

Guessing I'd disconnect the copper from the shut off and run the braided line to the inlet valve...seems simple.

But I really want to just replace the inlet valve and repair this leak...so if it's easier to leave the copper in place I'd just do that. Looks like I'd have to do some cutting to remove it cleanly as it runs into basement for a few feet and then back up through the floor to the dishwasher inlet.

 

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[Dj2]

Copper tubing was popular in the past, flex like the Eastman flex are popular.
The leak you have is most likely the result of a worn out sleeve. When you disconnect the copper tubing you'll see the sleeve around the tubing inside the nut.
Get a new nut and sleeve and you will be able to stop the leak, assuming that your copper tubing is fine.
Don't handle the tubing too much, don't change the curves back and forth.

 

[Jadnashua]

If the inlet valve body is plastic, it may have a slight crack in it. But, regardless, all it may take to stop the slow leak is an 1/8-1/4 turn of the compression nut on what you have. I'd try that first before I tried to replace it.

If it wasn't torqued properly when new, the expansion/contraction over time of the dissimilar materials can cause the nut to loosen.

The disadvantage to copper is that it's more expensive, and, once installed, doesn't bend a lot if you need to move things around on a DW replacement. Otherwise, it will last longer with less issues over a hose. With a hose, you might be able to pull the thing out then remove the hose. That may not work with copper. I have copper on my refrigerator, but there's probably a 10' or more loop behind it so it can be pulled out/pushed back in without stressing the connection, or risking crimping the line. That loop acts like a huge spring.

 

[Terry]

We used to hook up dishwashers with soft copper. At first I was using 1/2" OD and then later switched to 3/8" OD soft L copper.
You can really only bend copper one time without kinking it. You may get a little bend but don't count on much. Cutting back and using a new sleeve works most of the time.