Removing Stiffener and Compression Ring from PEX Pipe

[Calypso699]

Hi Everyone!

I’d like to replace the valve behind my toilet but need some help. The existing valve has a stiffener and compression nut installed onto the PEX piping. I don’t have a lot of length to work with so what I’d really like to do is remove the existing fittings (compression nut and stiffening sleeve) versus cutting right behind them. Is that even possible? Thank you for any suggestions.

 

[Jadnashua]

They make a puller for removing compression rings. That should get it off of the pipe. It's easy to overtighten the compression nut with PEX and really compress the plastic tubing. PEX does have pretty good memory, so once it's off, unless things get scratched or gouged in the process, it should be okay. They come in various configurations. YOu'd need to leave the internal stiffener in place to have something to then push against while removing the ring.

It would be really tight if you had to cut it instead as you really do want to fully insert the tubing into the stop in the valve. It might fit. You'd be able to get a little more length if you undid the nut, then cut immediately behind the compression ring. If you have something like a Dremel tool, if you were really careful, you could probably cut through the ring and either pry it off, or cut in multiple places to then let if come off on its own.

 

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[Calypso699]

They make a puller for removing compression rings. That should get it off of the pipe. It's easy to overtighten the compression nut with PEX and really compress the plastic tubing. PEX does have pretty good memory, so once it's off, unless things get scratched or gouged in the process, it should be okay. They come in various configurations. YOu'd need to leave the internal stiffener in place to have something to then push against while removing the ring.

It would be really tight if you had to cut it instead as you really do want to fully insert the tubing into the stop in the valve. It might fit. You'd be able to get a little more length if you undid the nut, then cut immediately behind the compression ring. If you have something like a Dremel tool, if you were really careful, you could probably cut through the ring and either pry it off, or cut in multiple places to then let if come off on its own.

Thank you for the suggestions and advice. I do have a Dremel tool so cutting the ring might be an option. I also like the idea of using a puller to get the compression ring off as it would still provide me with more length to work with and seems less risky. Thank you again for the suggestions.

 

[Plumber69]

You sure thats not poly b? is it grey or white. If its grey(poly b) What are you going replace it with

 

[Calypso699]

You sure thats not poly b? is it grey or white. If its grey(poly b) What are you going replace it with

It's not really gray but I wouldn't say its white either. If I shine a flashlight on it it's actually somewhat transparent. My home was built in 2003 if that helps. Sorry I'm not super knowledgeable on this stuff. Thanks for the help.

 

[Jeff H Young]

you can put a new stop and re use the nut and ferule without disturbing . Didn't think there was a puller for ferrules on PEX?

 

[Calypso699]

You can put a new stop and re use the nut and ferule without disturbing . Didn't think there was a puller for ferrules on PEX?

Oh really!? That almost seems too easy. I really hope that works because that would definitely make my life so much easier. Thank you for the suggestion.

 

[Reach4]

you can put a new stop and re use the nut and ferule without disturbing . didnt think there was a puller for ferrules on pex?

Good suggestion on trying to reuse the nut.

There are ferrule/sleeve pullers, but I think only for copper. Two primary types that I know of. One has fingers to pull the ferrule, and other screws into the nut, and pulls the nut, letting that force the ferrule off.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....on-vs-soldered-stop-valves.60517/#post-449787

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-shut-off-valve-from-photo.58499/#post-433244

https://www.zoro.com/superior-tool-compression-sleeve-puller-pipe-12-in-3943/i/G0953994/

 

[Calypso699]

Good suggestion on trying to reuse the nut.

There are ferrule/sleeve pullers, but I think only for copper. Two primary types that I know of. One has fingers to pull the ferrule, and other screws into the nut, and pulls the nut, letting that force the ferrule off.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....on-vs-soldered-stop-valves.60517/#post-449787

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-shut-off-valve-from-photo.58499/#post-433244

Good to know they are specifically for copper. So, my options at this point are try to reuse the ferule and nut, attempt to cut the ferule off with a Dremel, or as a last resort cut the pipe behind the nut and hope I have enough pipe to connect a new valve. I'm really hoping the option to reuse the nut works. I suppose I can try that and the worst that happens is it drips and I continue to other more invasive options.

 

[Jeff H Young]

Ive done it on PEX, CPVC and copper many times. If the anglestops are differant can be a problem but generaly fine! Wouldnt a dremel nick the pipe?

 

[Calypso699]

Ive done it on pex cpvc and copper many times. If the anglestops are differant can be a problem but generaly fine! Wouldnt a dremel nick the pipe?

Thanks, that is reassuring. You're right, using a Dremel could damage the pipe. It's an option, but a risky one.

 

[Jadnashua]

Many of the pullers rely on the rigid end of the pipe to pull against. But, I think that the stiffener insert would act in the same way.

If you use a cutoff wheel with a Dremel, you don't need to go quite all the way through, but close. YOu should be able to break it away once you've got it thin. The puller is safer.

I saw that your valve and nut appeared somewhat corroded, so I didn't mention that you MIGHT be able to just reuse the nut and ring without removing it. I figured you wanted to replace it. They often end up using the same threads, but there's no standard there as it's an internal thing. Now, the outlet portion is standard, and to keep from having two different tools, it's probably the same but no guarantees.

 

[Calypso699]

Many of the pullers rely on the rigid end of the pipe to pull against. But, I think that the stiffener insert would act in the same way.

If you use a cutoff wheel with a Dremel, you don't need to go quite all the way through, but close. YOu should be able to break it away once you've got it thin. The puller is safer.

I saw that your valve and nut appeared somewhat corroded, so I didn't mention that you MIGHT be able to just reuse the nut and ring without removing it. I figured you wanted to replace it. They often end up using the same threads, but there's no standard there as it's an internal thing. Now, the outlet portion is standard, and to keep from having two different tools, it's probably the same but no guarantees.

Your assumption about my preference of changing out the entire valve is correct. However, I feel that the path of least resistance is my best option which means reusing that old nut unfortunately. Once I get into the project I'll assess which route I'll go but thanks to you and everyone else on here I now feel like I have some options. Thank you for the tips.

 

[Reach4]

While I have not done it, it seems to me that pulling the stiffener first might make pulling the ferrule/sleeve/olive easier.

 

[Calypso699]

While I have not done it, it seems to me that pulling the stiffener first might make pulling the ferrule/sleeve/olive easier.

I’ll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Jadnashua]

The end of the pex won't be very stable if you try to use a puller without the stiffener, thus the suggestion to leave it in place. But, it won't hurt to try to remove it and see if pulling it will work with it out of there. Most of the pullers are designed to rely on the rigid copper pipe to push against. Keep in mind that during the tightening of the nut, it will have compressed the nut into the plastic some. Releasing the nut will allow it to recover some, but I don't know how fast or how far...it's been on there for years. It might just slide off with no resistance at all! When used on copper, the ring is slightly compressed into the copper, so it doesn't slide easily...the pex is smoother, softer, and recovers.

 

[Calypso699]

The end of the pex won't be very stable if you try to use a puller without the stiffener, thus the suggestion to leave it in place. But, it won't hurt to try to remove it and see if pulling it will work with it out of there. Most of the pullers are designed to rely on the rigid copper pipe to push against. Keep in mind that during the tightening of the nut, it will have compressed the nut into the plastic some. Releasing the nut will allow it to recover some, but I don't know how fast or how far...it's been on there for years. It might just slide off with no resistance at all! When used on copper, the ring is slightly compressed into the copper, so it doesn't slide easily...the pex is smoother, softer, and recovers.

Thank you for the detailed explanation. Fingers crossed I’m able to get it to slide off with no resistance! Thanks again for all your help. I really do appreciate your time and effort helping me understand the situation at hand.

 

[Jeff H Young]

I would expect the ferrule to shave the o.d. of the pex as you pull it . but never tried some good ideas here but no one seems to actually done it, dremmel tools , pullers okdo they work? If someone knows let me know? I havent failed my way, One way I did a cpvc anglestop It was glued on . was I cut it off close to wall and put a shark bite x 1/2inch mip adapter and a threaded anglestop. Not a fan of shark bites but didnt want to glue and wait or put a compression fitting over 25 year old possibly brittle plastic. pex isnt brittle so not an issue.

 

[Reach4]

I havent failed my way,

Is your sleeve puller similar to the Pasco 1661, or does your have the two arms?

Do you leave the pex insert in place?

 

[Jeff H Young]

Is your sleeve puller similar to the Pasco 1661, or does your have the two arms?

Do you leave the pex insert in place?