PEX connections

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Hi, I am trying to figure out from all the past posts what is the best and most reliable method of connecting PEX. There are a lot of opinions.

I have used sharkbite push connectors to which I have access. I also have used the Cinch stainless steel connectors behind walls. I am about to do some work around my well tank, with some 1 Inch pipe, so want to pick up what I need

I see Push connectors, Cinch rings, Clamp rings, Sleeve and Expand rings. What should I be using for reliability? I can buy whatever tool I need.

In addition to this, I believe my house is plumbed with PEX B - I cannot see it labeled as such, but it does say the max pressure is 100 PSI, I believe Pex A is 500? This pex is 12 years old. Should I continue with this PEX B for consistency, or change any new work to PEX A? or can I mix and match

Naturally, I want to use one type of connection method going forward

Thanks for your input
 

John Gayewski

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I'd switch to expansion rings and pex A. More flow and easier. Your can pull push connect fittings off when connected to pex so they aren't my favorite.
 
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@John Gayewski That's what I am leaning toward, My one concern is I am not sure what type of pex is existing in the home. When I am interfacing with the existing piping, which I will be, I don't believe I can use the expansion rings correct? For example, one pipe is Pex A the other is, I am assuming 12-year-old Pex B. How would you tie in?
 

Jeff H Young

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Pex A can be joined with any of the methods you mentioned
SOME Pex B can be joined with any of the methods you mentioned some Pex B perhaps most is not approoved for expansion.
This is My understanding therefore not a good idea to expand unknown piping
 

JohnCT

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Can I get connectors that one side will work with the expansion tool, and the other end will work with the cinch clamp?

If your connection from old to new will be in an unfinished basement, you might consider a push to connect fitting like Sharkbite - they do make several adapter types. Done properly, a bite will probably last decades and at worst will most likely seep a bit at the end of its life - not blow out.

Regarding your original PEX, *some* PEX B is certified for F1960 expansion, but if that's your plan, I would contact the manufacturer and clarify that with them if you want to expand the B to match your new A or new B pipe. But -

My concern however would be expanding 12 year old PEX even if it was certified to do so. I have no idea if that's good or bad but it seems that older PEX would be ever so slightly less pliable than it was when it was new, so I would crimp the old B and use expansion on the new pipes.

John
 

Eman85

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I have used sharkbite push connectors to which I have access. I also have used the Cinch stainless steel connectors behind walls. I am about to do some work around my well tank, with some 1 Inch pipe, so want to pick up what I need
I'm not a plumber, just a homeowner handyman. I have the crimp and cinch tools so that's what I use. I've not seen any problems with those methods, the only knock is smaller fittings and reduced flow. I've repiped 2 houses with PEX B and flow hasn't been an issue for us. For 1" I guess I'd use cinch rings as it would be the same tool as the others.
 

Slomoola

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PEX is so cheap, if done by you, that one can do the job cheaply and easily. Do a lot of reading and go for it. It ain't the space program LOL.

I would install Sioux Chief PEX A and stainless steel Boshart fittings. That is the best recipe I've found. Far as manifolds go, Sioux Chief copper is better for longevity. But plastic won't transfer cold as fast as copper in winter (can/will still freeze). Talking about freezing pipes. You must INSULATE both hot and cold lines and manifolds if used.

As the others have said, PEX A has way better flow and volume. Stay away from hard PEX B 90 degree fittings be it in brass or plastic. Boshart has sweeping PEX A stainless 90's that are the cats meow. PEX A being flexible can save on 90's too. Get a manual PEX A expander tool and go for it. Good luck on the project.
 
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Thanks, everyone. I am going to do the new work with expansion, and just interface to the old work with crimp rings. Last question on this, I promise..:cool:.... Is a manual crimper easy/reliable to use, or should I pick up an electric one? I will not have a whole lot of work to do, but I have read that they can be tough to use..but are they really that hard? I will have to crimp a couple of 1" connections where I interface to the old work. I get using a battery-operated if you are using it all day... thoughts?
 
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Hi folks. I picked up the Apollo crimp tool today. Easy to use. Question is on go-no-go check. I noticed in a couple tests, it stops at the "go line" if you test 90 deg away from where Jaws close. If you test where Jaws close, where the copper is kind of indented from the Jaws, it slides in to the "no go". Not necessarily that the ring was ovaled, more the copper was marked from the Jaws.. What is the correct way to confirm the crimp, should it be the same result anywhere you test on the ring?
 
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