Identify Threaded or compression shut-off valve from photo?

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JasonM

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I am a novice DIY in plumbing.

I need to replace at least 30 years old shut-off value in the bathroom sink shut-off valve. I showed the attached photo to my friend who is good at plumbing and to one of the Home Depot staff. My friend said it is threaded, and HD staff said it is compression ring shut-off valve. I am confused. I think for the compression ring valve the exposed thread is too long, but for threaded valve, the female nut is absent.

Could you tell which one is correct from the photo? Thank you very much.

20131116_150432.jpg
 

Caduceus

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It is a compression valve. I recommend removing the old nut as well as the old compression ring. It may not be easy, but there is a tool at HD that removes faucet handles and has an adapter for pulling compression rings, too. Removing and replacing the escutcheon would be a plus since you could use the extra room on the pipe for the new valve.
 

JasonM

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Caduceus, I really appreciate your answer.

If it is a compression ring shut off valve, I am kind of leery of doing it myself because I am afraid of of the water leaks after installing the shut-off valve. I may have to call professional plumber.

Thank you very much.
 

JasonM

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By the way, Caduceus, the reason I need to replace the shut off valve is because I can not turn the knob to shut off the water. I think it is at least 5 years or more since I turned the valve, and I think water mineral deposited and hardened.

I guess replacing the valve is the best solution for this problem.

Thank you.
 

Caduceus

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Your welcome. There is no shame in calling a professional to take care of the problem. That's why we're here.
 

Smooky

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You may be able to loosen the compression nut and remove the valve. Discard the old valve and install a new valve but keep the old compression nut.

Here is how to get the compression nut and ring off the pipe:
 
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hj

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Actually, you should be replacing that valve, and any others like it, (with the attached corrugated supply line), because they develop cracks between the corrugations and can start leaking at any time. The first indication MAY BE a green coating on the supply tube.
 

JasonM

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Smooky. Thank you very much for the very useful tutorials. It looks easy to do when watching but in actuality, many times, it is not going the way it should due to my lack of experience. So, I will call the professional plumber. Thank you anyway. In the future, when I have more confidence and experience, this tutorial will come in very handy.

hj, thank you. As you said, I am replacing the shut-off valve and the supply line.
 

hj

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If you have one on the toilet, you probably also have many more on the faucets in the house. Check them for green stains on the outside and if you find any with it, replace them all because it is only a matter of time before they fail.
 

JasonM

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Can I ask some more questions?

First off, I contacted a local reputable plumber to replace 5 or 6 shut off valves, and I got the estimate by email. Since I thought the estimate is reasonable, I asked if he could do this based on the estimate. But, then I have not heard since, and I am thinking that he is busy with big jobs, and this is too small job for him.

So, I am thinking of doing it myself. I have some experience with plumbing replacing kitchen and bathroom sink faucets, installing dish washer myself. I also dabbled in copper soldering in the open area about 8 years ago to practice. But I never replaced the shutoff valve because of the fear that the water may leak after I replace it. And that fear is the only thing that keeps me from doing it myself.
My house is about 35 years old and has the copper pipes.

My question may sound really really silly, but how likely is it to have a leak after shutoff valve replacement?
Is my fear reasonable?

Thank you.
 

Koa

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You can buy a compression ring removal tool. I bought a Pasco4661 for about $20.00 from a local plumbing supply house. Sell it on Craigslist when you're done. I just replaced about 15 valves. A few dripped at first and needed a bit of tightening. A little grease or Teflon paste on threads helps. It's really pretty easy.
 
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JasonM

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Koa, thank you very much for introducing the tool. Home Depot does not seem to carry this, so I am going to order this ($34)

What else tool do you think I may be needing while doing this?
Is there any danger that water may leak inside the wall connecting this copper piece to the main stem due to the impact of pulling and installing the shut off vale?

Also, do you apply a little grease or Teflon paste on threads first time or only when it leaks?

Thank you.
 
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Dj2

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If you hate to buy specialty tools for a once in a lifetime use, consider this:

Saw off the sleeve, but work slowly not to damage the copper nipple.
 

Terry

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I seldom remove the nut and ring when I replace the valves.

We almost always pull the nut and sleeve, and replace the old escutcheon plate.
It's rare that we would leave the old stuff on.

Most hardware stores carry the puller. Though most plumbers haven't caught on to this.

sleeve_puller_3.jpg
 
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JasonM

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dj2, hj, Terry, thank you very much for the comments.
If I do this myself, I will replace the nut and sleeve and escutcheon plate. I ordered the Pasco sleeve puller.

The reason that I am afraid of doing it myself is that about 20 years ago, after I opened the shut off valve after working on the toilet, the water started leaking, and I ended up calling the professional plumber as an emergency. After that, I have a fear of working with the shut off valve.

Thank you.
 

Koa

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Koa, thank you very much for introducing the tool. Home Depot does not seem to carry this, so I am going to order this ($34) .

What else tool do you think I may be needing while doing this?
Is there any danger that water may leak inside the wall connecting this copper piece to the main stem due to the impact of pulling and installing the shut off vale?

Also, do you apply a little grease or Teflon paste on threads first time or only when it leaks?

Thank you.
You just need a couple of crescent wrenches. I put a little grease or paste on the thread of the nut and where the nut rides on the compression ring. It just helps it not bind when you start to tighten. After removing the old nut and compression ring slide on the new escutcheon plate, nut, compression ring, and valve. Slide the valve over the pipe until it bottoms out, hand tighten the nut, line up the direction you want the valve and tighten the nut while holding the valve stationary with the wrenches. You don't want to tighten the nut by rotating the valve.
 
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Koa

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The puller shouldn't impact what's inside the wall. To me, sawing on the pipe with a hack saw moves the pipe around more. All mine slid off pretty easily. They were between 10 and 25 years old. Check your valves for the first few days to make sure you don't have a tiny leak. Tighten a bit more if you do.
 

JerryR

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Koa's instructions were good. A drop of oil on the threads of the new stop is what I use.

I replaced 21 Angle Stops in my 1996 home last year. I used the Pasco puller which made it easy to remove the compression rings and nuts without damaging the pipe. Not one leak.

Reusing the rings may be an option but no always.

I used a 13/16" and 15/16" open end wrenches.

Here is a picture of the tools I use to replace stops.

FullSizeRender.jpg
 
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