PLEASE HELP DOUBLE KITCHEN SINK CLOGGED

[Flapper]

Where do you insert it at? Under the sink in the pipes past the traps I'm guessing?

You need to find a good place to insert it... I think you should insert it after the thin pipe sink pieces, down into the drain line. In our case there was a clean-out plug outside under the sink that we used to insert the bladder down into the drain line.

 

[MKS]

My thoughts are, if it is coffee grounds, a little help from a household hose may push the clog along. I'm not inclined to tell you to push a hose down the line, do not want to get it stuck and make everything worse. There is a bladder that can be put in the drain and then apply household water pressure. Potentially messy if it gets pushed out under pressure. Probably a job for two.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Medium-Drain-Bladder-BC00332/100586170

And no more coffee grounds

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Flapper]

Where do you insert it at? Under the sink in the pipes past the traps I'm guessing?

I think you'd need to insert it down here.

I am not a professional; someone else should confirm.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

I think you'd need to insert it down here.

I am not a professional; someone else should confirm.

I can't figure out how to get into that though. It looks as though it is glued. Everything else has the compression screw things but those look like they have glue drips and when I try to twist and turn, they don't budge at all. That is where I think the clog is, but I can't figure out how to get into that area....? Thoughts?

 

[Flapper]

Those fittings are glued (solvent-welded) together; you'd probably have to cut in to get the bladder in there. I suppose you can cut into it and after unclogging it, you can repair it with a Y so that you have an access port for future decloggerizations.

 

[Flapper]

I was thinking maybe you can use a flexible wye but I couldn't find flexible wyes at Home Depot so you'd probably have to just use a flexible coupling to repair it (so no clean-out plug)

 

[MKS]

What is on the other side of the wall the angled pipe goes through. Maybe be a place to look for a clean out.
If you take the trap off and gently run the rented tool through as far as you can. Don't force it. Pull it out and note how far you went.

 

[Flapper]

Hmm, if that's a vent that goes to the roof, then maybe you can insert the bladder through the vent in the roof. You'd have to go deep enough, though, because if you're before the sink, then you'll overflow the sink.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

I was thinking maybe you can use a flexible wye but I couldn't find flexible wyes at Home Depot so you'd probably have to just use a flexible coupling to repair it (so no clean-out plug)

I just poured boiling water down the drain so now I believe I definitely know where the clog is. If I'm right, it is just inside the sink where the parts are glued together. It sucks because we don't have any tools to cut into the pipe so I'll have to buy some BUT that means it is easy to reach. The hot pipes stop suddenly after a certain distance (and it isn't from the water cooling down, it goes from hot pipes to nothing at all very quickly).

 

[Flapper]

Oh!!
So is this where the clog is?

If this is where it is, then you can remove the P-trap on the left, and insert a snake into it.

 

[MKS]

No need to cut yet.
Disconnect p-trap. Put bucket under drain pipe.
Put some more water in sink and plunge.
Repeat.
You can take the drain off the bottom of the sink with p trap disconnected and take it outside and flush it.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

Oh!!
So is this where the clog is?

If this is where it is, then you can remove the P-trap on the left, and insert a snake into it.

If my educated guess is correct from dumping the boiling water down it then that is what I'm thinking/hoping. We only have a short snake for a toilet. Let me extend it on the outside of the pipes to see if it will reach, if so, I'll remove the trap and snake it again.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

No need to cut yet.
Put some more water in and plunge.
Repeat.
You can take the drain off the bottom of the sink with p trap disconnected and take it outside and flush it.

I have been plunging and water runs fine when I have the ptrap disconnected. It flows fast and there isn't anything in the ptrap some it is past that point.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

Oh!!
So is this where the clog is?

If this is where it is, then you can remove the P-trap on the left, and insert a snake into it.

I just tried that and it did nothing. I'll try again in the morning and also possibly try sticking a bladder in the horizontal section that runs to the red circle so I don't have to cut. Maybe that will help?

 

[MKS]

Is the p- trap clean?
If so with p-trap off use your snake to clean towards that red circle. If using the drill run it slow and careful.

 

[Forgivenbygracee]

Is the p- trap clean?
If so with p-trap off use your snake to clean towards that red circle. If using the drill run it slow and careful.

Yes ptrap is totally clean. And I snaked up toward the red circle with a hand auger. Which is all we have at the moment. I just got done plunging it like crazy as well.

 

[Flapper]

It might be that you got a false idea with the hot water because what may have happened is, on the horizontal run the water flows slowly and heats up the pipe, but where it goes vertical it falls down quickly and doesnt touch the sides much, so that may be why the horizonal pipe becomes warm but the pipe below the tee is not warm. I'm not sure about this but it might be possible.
So if you augered it and didnt find anything at that tee, then the clog may be deeper below the tee.

 

[Reach4]

I have done something a little like like this before.

Let the drain sit unused overnight to let the water drain out past the clog if the clog is not total.

I suspect the clog is under the floor where the vertical pipe transitions to horizontal. Here is what I would do:
Get 2 shielded couplings. Let dimension A be maybe 1/4 inch longer than a coupling. Let dimension B be the same length. Then saw out the section of pipe between the middle pink lines.

Do your rodding or drain bladder action down through the space opened by sawing out the section. Then put the two couplers over the drain pipe, and restore the cut out section. Move the couplings to center each on a saw cut. Tighten.

Maybe the better action would be to put a new section in that has a cleanout port. You could do this later if you liked. But my simplified way will give good quick access.

 

[MKS]

If you are clean from sink to red circle you probably need a longer snake.
Possibly the bladder.
Check that angled line that runs into the wall for a clean out possibly.

 

[Flapper]

View attachment 34535 I have done something a little like like this before.

Let the drain sit unused overnight to let the water drain out past the clog if the clog is not total.

I suspect the clog is under the floor where the vertical pipe transitions to horizontal. Here is what I would do:
Get 2 shielded couplings. Let dimension A be maybe 1/4 inch longer than a coupling. Let dimension B be the same length. Then saw out the section of pipe between the middle pink lines.

Do your rodding or drain bladder action down through the space opened by sawing out the section. Then put the two couplers over the drain pipe, and restore the cut out section. Move the couplings to center each on a saw cut. Tighten.

Maybe the better action would be to put a new section in that has a cleanout port. You could do this later if you liked. But my simplified way will give good quick access.

If you meant to post a picture, it didn't show up
Edit: somehow a link to it appeared in the quote. Here it is: