PLEASE HELP DOUBLE KITCHEN SINK CLOGGED
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Forgivenbygracee
Member
I may just see if my dad can come down and spend the day with us. His sink is ALWAYS doing this but I feel awful asking him to come down. He is up north and works 6 days a week. But he has all the tools and it would save us a ton of money on a plumber. I think I'm going to head to bed for now and worry about it in the morning. 
Thanks for all of your help gentlemen.
Thanks for all of your help gentlemen.
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Flapper, Reach4 and yourself believe the clog is beyond the red circle.
So because you believe coffee grounds are involved i am trying to avoid cutting for this.
If by some luck there was a clean out on the opposite side of the wall where there is an angled pipe, from top of red circle, running through this would eliminate one, maybe two 90 degree turns for your snake or bladder.
None the less a longer snake running towards the red circle may reach your clog. I believe 135 degrees of turns requires a clean out because the snake will not want to make turns beyond that.
Hence Reach4 recommend cutting, cleaning adding clean out and using the coupling described. Seems very reasonable and the coupler is code approved as far as I understand and simple to use.
So because you believe coffee grounds are involved i am trying to avoid cutting for this.
If by some luck there was a clean out on the opposite side of the wall where there is an angled pipe, from top of red circle, running through this would eliminate one, maybe two 90 degree turns for your snake or bladder.
None the less a longer snake running towards the red circle may reach your clog. I believe 135 degrees of turns requires a clean out because the snake will not want to make turns beyond that.
Hence Reach4 recommend cutting, cleaning adding clean out and using the coupling described. Seems very reasonable and the coupler is code approved as far as I understand and simple to use.
Widgit Maker
Member
Rent the power snake. I have one of that type and it works well and is fairly easy to use. Ask for instructions or watch video. Remove the trap and the cable and head will easily pass thru the turns.
Your use of boiling water to locate the blockage was a great idea. However you forgot one thing. When the hot water hits the cold water it will cool immediately.
In other words the point below the 90 that you felt the difference in temperature was the level of the standing cold water in the pipes when you poured in the hot water. The actual blockage is further down the line. Blockages are almost always in horizontal sections of pipe.
From the looks of the piping I think your house is built on a concrete slab. The pipe coming out of the wall is the vent pipe. The drain piping is located where it is and not in the wall, to avoid having it go through the footer of the slab (weakens the footer).
That piping is ABS. Easily cut with just about anything from a bread knife, to stranded wire, to hacksaw, to handsaw, to power saws. I have even heard that you can cut it with dental floss.
If you cut the vertical section pipe you will have to repair with shielded rubber coupling because you won't be able to get the to sections far enough apart enough to use a glue up coupling.
However, the is no reason to cut anything, the snake will go through all the turns including the ell of the trap.
PS
The bladder thing won't work unless you cut into the drain pipe. The water will just go up the vent pipe. The piping under the floor probably runs to the closest bathroom area. How far is that?
Your use of boiling water to locate the blockage was a great idea. However you forgot one thing. When the hot water hits the cold water it will cool immediately.
In other words the point below the 90 that you felt the difference in temperature was the level of the standing cold water in the pipes when you poured in the hot water. The actual blockage is further down the line. Blockages are almost always in horizontal sections of pipe.
From the looks of the piping I think your house is built on a concrete slab. The pipe coming out of the wall is the vent pipe. The drain piping is located where it is and not in the wall, to avoid having it go through the footer of the slab (weakens the footer).
That piping is ABS. Easily cut with just about anything from a bread knife, to stranded wire, to hacksaw, to handsaw, to power saws. I have even heard that you can cut it with dental floss.
If you cut the vertical section pipe you will have to repair with shielded rubber coupling because you won't be able to get the to sections far enough apart enough to use a glue up coupling.
However, the is no reason to cut anything, the snake will go through all the turns including the ell of the trap.
PS
The bladder thing won't work unless you cut into the drain pipe. The water will just go up the vent pipe. The piping under the floor probably runs to the closest bathroom area. How far is that?
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Flapper
Member
I wouldn't rent the power snake, because for less than the price of renting that, you can buy a 25 foot manual snake that you keep as long as you want (because you own it). I don't see much improvement of a powered auger vs a hand auger; I think a hand auger is perfectly adequate. The powered auger costs ~$35 for four hours, while a manual auger costs $25 to own it. Now suppose you rent the auger and you don't unclog it within four hours; you pay more. Then what if it clogs again in the future; you'd have to rent an auger again, whereas if you bought the hand auger, you'd already have it.
(also if you rent an auger you'd be using a filthy auger that some random guy used for his disgusting drain)
just my opinion.
(also if you rent an auger you'd be using a filthy auger that some random guy used for his disgusting drain)
just my opinion.
Plumber69
In the Trades
Get a plumber..... hand crank snakes rarely work
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Flapper
Member
How much better are powered snakes than hand snakes? I've haven't actually tried them so my opinion is just based on assumptions. I think I'd still want to try the hand snake, though.
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Forgivenbygracee
Member
We live in a mobile home so yes it is build on a slab. I have tried snaking it with a 25 foot snake. I am hitting the blockage but cannot get past it or cause it to move at all.....where do I go from here. Would it be more beneficial now for me to cut into the pipe and snake it better that way? Or just keep snaking?
Forgivenbygracee
Member
I have tried snaking it with a 25 foot snake. I am hitting the blockage but cannot get past it or cause it to move at all.....where do I go from here. Would it be more beneficial now for me to cut into the pipe and snake it better that way? Or just keep snaking?
Forgivenbygracee
Member
Ball park, what would it cost to have one come out and unclog it? I've hit the clog with my 25 foot hand snake, but can't get it to budge.
Forgivenbygracee
Member
OH also, how to I verify that I am actually going down the drain and not up into the vent with the snake? That is my one concern and I'm not sure how to check that
Widgit Maker
Member
OK, if you are in a mobile home you should have access to the piping underneath. Estimate the distance and look for the reason the snake will not go any further. It is doubtful that the blockage is preventing the snake from going any further but it might. All turns should be "Y" or 45's but maybe someone put in a tee that doesn't guide the snake thru the turn. If you see no reason for snake not being able to go through a turn, cut the pipe just ahead of where you think the blockage is. Before you cut, pick up a shielded coupling so you can put the pipe back together. Also pick up a 2" ABS coupling, primer and glue. You probably will have enough flex in the piping there to use the glue up coupling. Return what you do not use. Check pipe sizing, I am guessing 2", might be 1 1/2.
The snake can't go up the vent because of the sanitary tee. And if it did, at 25" it would be coming out the roof.
The snake can't go up the vent because of the sanitary tee. And if it did, at 25" it would be coming out the roof.
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Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
I would cut out a section on the vertical drain and install a wye there with a cleanout fitting. Every drain should have an accessible cleanout above the point which it goes through the floor. This will make the next clog that much easier to fix too.
Flapper
Member
At least your drain is not back-flowing into the dishwasher; when we had a huge clog similar to yours, dirty water was back-flowing into the dishwasher and onto/under the floor... it was horrible... all because some idiots didnt connect the dishwasher correctly.
Forgivenbygracee
Member
We don't have a dishwasher lol. Nor a disposal.
Forgivenbygracee
Member
So we went under the home and it looks like the put the insulation OVER the pipes for the kitchen sink and we can't get to them without tearing into that.
Forgivenbygracee
Member
So here is an updated. We have been snaking out the pipe for 2 days and can't get through the blockage OR we are hitting another joint but we can't tell because when we go under the home, they put the insulation OVER the pipes......And we can't get to it without taking that down. My husband is suspicious of a lime build up causing the backup so we are going to try CLR over night and see what happens. I tried Instant Power Drain Cleaner and that did nothing. I've flushed water down it many times to make sure that is all cleared out (like I said, it drains but just super super super slow....not enough for you to notice while watching it). Our landlord confirmed that is is our responsibility BUT he would love to come over and see if he can look into it or help us out. He's great.
I am currently rinsing out the dishes outside then washing them in the bathtub...lol I hope we get this figured out asap!!!
I am currently rinsing out the dishes outside then washing them in the bathtub...lol I hope we get this figured out asap!!!
Forgivenbygracee
Member
Also, where should I look for the cleanout at? I am going to try and find that and snake from that end but I have been unsuccessful in finding it
Cacher_Chick
Test, Don't Guess!
Yes, installing a cleanout there would only take someone with experience a few minutes if it is standard abs piping. Trailers do not always use schedule 40 pipe and fillings, which can make repairs more challenging.
If you have to work from under the trailer, you must be very careful about restoring the insulation, as it is whas is protecting all of your plumbing from freezing in the winter. One air leak could cost you a major headache when winter returns.
If you have to work from under the trailer, you must be very careful about restoring the insulation, as it is whas is protecting all of your plumbing from freezing in the winter. One air leak could cost you a major headache when winter returns.
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