I didn't see this reply earlier. Thanks for the info.
Pitless adapter, Is this salvageable?
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As I think about it, looking at the NC15 dimensions 5.10 ± .037, the more I think that NC15 could be right. It would be in tension, but that would keep it from dislocating during
install or later removal. Then there is the fact that you know you have a Baker pitless, and that seems to make it very probable that is the right ring.
What do you read for piston diameter?
install or later removal. Then there is the fact that you know you have a Baker pitless, and that seems to make it very probable that is the right ring.
What do you read for piston diameter?
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Sounds like you are on the right path. It is possible that the old o-ring was lubricated with petroleum jelly. That can cause o-rings to swell up and otherwise deteriorate.
I don't know when the silicone grease became commonly available.
I just found this: https://www.bakerwatersystems.com/u...onitor PS units installation instructions.pdf
it says
9. Wipe the rubber "O" ring seals with a clean cloth and then
coat with a heavy layer of petroleum jelly (vaseline) for
proper seating of rings. Lower the entire assembly into
pitless unit case.
coat with a heavy layer of petroleum jelly (vaseline) for
proper seating of rings. Lower the entire assembly into
pitless unit case.
Don't follow the petroleum jelly part of the directions! I would get that Molykote 111 on order, if you have not done so.
I just went back over to the plumber and got the NC15 o-rings. Cost $15 each. The guy that actually installs them was there and said it is the right o-ring.
He said to use steel pipe and not plastic when putting it back in. After reading a lot of stuff here I thought poly pipe was the best thing to use and have a roll of 160 psi 1" on order. Will I be ok using that or should I consider using steel?
He said to use steel pipe and not plastic when putting it back in. After reading a lot of stuff here I thought poly pipe was the best thing to use and have a roll of 160 psi 1" on order. Will I be ok using that or should I consider using steel?
Should I try cleaning out the casing first or just put it in? I was thinking I could attach one of these to a shaft and clean it out. Is that a bad idea?
https://www.farmandfleet.com/produc...w-face-vortec-crimped-wire-bench-grinder.html
https://www.farmandfleet.com/produc...w-face-vortec-crimped-wire-bench-grinder.html
So both rings are the same size? I guess I was suspecting the top ring might be larger.
VAWellDriller said clean it in #29, so clean it. I think he probably meant go for the loose stuff rather than rust removal. I could be wrong.
I using a power wire brush, I don't think that "narrow face" is an advantage in this case. For the same size, I might slather a little extra grease on the bottom ring, figuring it would loose something on the way down.
I was thinking of maybe a scotch pad attached securely to a "2x2" piece of wood to use like a giant toilet brush. Attach a T handle or safety line.
Whatever you do, don't drop anything down the well. Tie a safety line to your tools. Tie the other end of the safety line to something that cannot fall down the well. Make sure the chuck and other connections are tight.
How about hauling out the pressure washer? That would certainly put stuff down the well. I think any cleaning will. So expect to run the pump full blast to the ditch for a good while. And then sanitize soon.
I have never tried this stuff.
VAWellDriller said clean it in #29, so clean it. I think he probably meant go for the loose stuff rather than rust removal. I could be wrong.
I using a power wire brush, I don't think that "narrow face" is an advantage in this case. For the same size, I might slather a little extra grease on the bottom ring, figuring it would loose something on the way down.
I was thinking of maybe a scotch pad attached securely to a "2x2" piece of wood to use like a giant toilet brush. Attach a T handle or safety line.
Whatever you do, don't drop anything down the well. Tie a safety line to your tools. Tie the other end of the safety line to something that cannot fall down the well. Make sure the chuck and other connections are tight.
How about hauling out the pressure washer? That would certainly put stuff down the well. I think any cleaning will. So expect to run the pump full blast to the ditch for a good while. And then sanitize soon.
I have never tried this stuff.
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Yes, both o-rings are the same size. The lip at the very top of the spool is larger. It is about 1/32 less than 6". I assume that is to protect the o-rings when pulling the spool.
To sanitize the well, does the spool have to be out? There isn't much space to get anything down there. I wouldn't think it would be good to get bleach or chlorine on outside of the spool.
To sanitize the well, does the spool have to be out? There isn't much space to get anything down there. I wouldn't think it would be good to get bleach or chlorine on outside of the spool.
In. The duration is limited, so there is not significant action against the pitless etc. You wash the casing and stuff with clean water.
I am presuming there is a passage that allows air and water go from above the spool to below. How large is that? I was thinking you could even consider putting the raw bleach through a tube through that hole. The recirculating water should be played against the sides of the casing, however to get that cleaned.
Is there any chance I could use Dow Corning DC4 instead of the Molykote 111. I already have that.
There are two holes through that are square and about 3/4" across. The wire needs to go through one of them.
I guess I will just get it put back in and make sure the underground pipe is not bad too before I try sanitizing it.
I guess I will just get it put back in and make sure the underground pipe is not bad too before I try sanitizing it.
I am not sure. Here is some stuff to read. https://www.fmv.se/FTP/M7789-000193/datablad/M0729-3010XX_DowCorning_4.pdf says
Grease like material containing an inert silica filler in combination with selected polydimethyl silicone fluids
and later it says
Dimethyl silicone compounds should not be applied to O rings or other components made of silicone rubber because they will destroy the silicone rubber.
These compounds will also slightly swell natural butyl rubbers.
So seemingly not wise based on that last sentence. However this next one seems to give a different picture:These compounds will also slightly swell natural butyl rubbers.
Per https://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/80-3256.pdf both are NSF 61 certified, for use in drinking water stuff. Seemingly divergent from the first link, for 4 it says
maintaining flexibility of natural and synthetic rubbers, vinyls, plastics, rubber and plastic O-rings.1
for 111 it says
rubber and plastic O-rings
So what do you think? I strongly doubt that the o-ring you got is made of silicone rubber. Butyl or natural rubber seems fairly likely. So both are probably OK. Let us know what you conclude.
msds
I compared the MDSs. I did not find totally easy comparisons, but here were a couple of what seem to be differences. I am not saying this tells me that one of these would be better for an O-ring.
111: odor: none
4: some odor
main ingredient:
111: Dimethyl siloxane, trimethylsiloxy-terminated https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polydimethylsiloxane
4: Dimethyl, methyl silicone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_resin
I compared the MDSs. I did not find totally easy comparisons, but here were a couple of what seem to be differences. I am not saying this tells me that one of these would be better for an O-ring.
111: odor: none
4: some odor
main ingredient:
111: Dimethyl siloxane, trimethylsiloxy-terminated https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polydimethylsiloxane
4: Dimethyl, methyl silicone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_resin
http://mykin.com/oring-groove-design says
The O-ring inner diameter (ID) should also stretch approximately 5% over your groove or gland.
That goes along with your measurements and reinforces the decision that the NC15 is the right ring.
The O-ring inner diameter (ID) should also stretch approximately 5% over your groove or gland.
That goes along with your measurements and reinforces the decision that the NC15 is the right ring.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
This spool is not fitted with a hold down device...which means only the weight of the pumping equipment makes the spool seat and seal. Given the light load and high static level, I would put steel pipe back to give you a little more weight. Unlike a slide type pitless, when this spool becomes pressurized it creates some upwards lift forces.
I would have thought with the pressure coming in between two o-rings that the pressure would equalize and it would not try to lift out? I was thinking it works the same way as a Baker In Well control with the bayonet attachment?
VAWellDriller
Active Member
Not familiar with the in well control with bayonet you speak of. What youre saying makes sense....I guess i never thought about it too much...just know ive had a little trouble with light pump assemblies in past. All tbe baker industrial series units include pretty heavy duty hold down features ...must be for a reason.
As long as those two o-rings are the same diameter, there should be equal force up and down. But it the lower o-ring didn't seal, I can see where it would lift up.
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