Pitless adapter, Is this salvageable?
- Thread starter Whatnot
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When you put this back you need it to last 20-30 years, and that one won't do it. I would replace the whole thing.
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Can you find a name or model number on it? I don't recognize it. Maybe some of the other installers will know what brand it is.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
Looks salvageable to me.....at least worth a try before digging. Wire brush it really well and put on some new o rings see what happens. Those things are pretty resilient....looks like a baker 4 x 2 with chech valve on the spool to me. Was it leaking before you pulled it?
For the new O-rings. If you can ID the unit, you could get those from the maker. If not, you can measure and order by size.
To help the ID, maybe take a picture of the part that sticks out of the ground, and another like you did except show the other side, if it looks different on the other side.
Look for a name cast into the spool (what you show) and the part that sticks up.
To help the ID, maybe take a picture of the part that sticks out of the ground, and another like you did except show the other side, if it looks different on the other side.
Look for a name cast into the spool (what you show) and the part that sticks up.
I pulled it because there was no water pressure. I just purchased the house and the water worked at first but then when I came back a week later, the pump was running and no water pressure.
It looks like the bottom o-ring was completely gone for a while but I don't see how it worked at all without it.
I wire brushed it for a while. Was almost 1/4" thick in spots. The door thing was stuck pretty good. Moves easier now but not closing itself. I think I can probably get it freed up with some penetrating oil.
Here are some more pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zn6FCCWYoXmNShs42
Here are some more pics. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Zn6FCCWYoXmNShs42
When I get back there, will take some pics of the part sticking out of the ground.
It is a galvanized pipe that I would guess is 6". I think the pipe wall thickness is 3/8" but I could be wrong. Looked thicker than 1/4".
Cap has 3 set screws that hold it on.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
Looks pretty good to me....those doors are are a check valve and should be spring loaded to shut when the pump cuta off....you can do away with them if they are sticking. I never liked them...same thing as n inline check valve. A good hydraulic repair shop or a place like Grainger should have o rings to fit...just take the part with you. I don't know what those numbers mean, but with baker monitor units the casing that you see is one pipe size larger than your well....if you see a 6.625" OD pipe (IPS) then you have a 5" well and it would be called 5" pitless unit. If you see 5" nominal pipe sticking up you have a 4" well and pitless unit....im sure it's one of those.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
It would not work without the bottom oring...they frequently come off with lifting a spool that has been in a long time.
Ok, will try finding o-rings.
Just below this unit, above the drop pipe was a tee with something that looked like a vacuum breaker. It was just a flap that water pressure would hold closed and allow air in. Is that part needed?
Just below this unit, above the drop pipe was a tee with something that looked like a vacuum breaker. It was just a flap that water pressure would hold closed and allow air in. Is that part needed?
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
Do you have a bladder type or HP tank? If HP, then what you describe is probably the airmaker.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
That's a bleeder to drain a section of drop pipe...so air can be added to a conventional air/water pressure tank. It's odd that it Was directly under the pitless (which had built in check). Was the check valve removed from.the pump? That's the only way I configure what you decribed would work. That device is usually 1 or 2 joints of pipe below a check valve with vacuum break attached. I don't like them but if the system had been working ok hard to advise not to put it all back how it was.....including removal of the pump check valve if that's how it was.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
Some installers will put two bleeders in the drop pipe separated by some distance. The bottom one bleeds out water and the top one lets in air.
VAWellDriller
Active Member
Yes....in that situation you still need a check at the top bleeder. I suspect in this case the pitless.serves as the check, the bleeder he described let's in the air and the water must drain back through the pump...unlesa there was another inline bleeder he didn't mention.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
We are getting the info in dribbles and drabs so anyone's guess. Could be the airmaker quit years ago and the previous owner replaced the waterlogging HP tank with a bladder type.
You first asked about the tank less than 3 hours ago in #13, so that is not really into dribble mode.
Regarding brushing, if a brass brush does the job, I would use that instead of a steel brush.
Something like CLR could be useful for getting rid of some remaining deposits.
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I am only going by memory on some of this so may have to correct after I get back there.
I have no idea if this system was working correctly in a long time.
Here is a list from bottom up.
Myers pump that had mud covering over half of the intake. I thought there was a check valve above it but could be wrong. I didn't look that close at it.
Then about 70' of 1" gray threaded pvc. Above that was the plastic tee with the air bleeder thing in it.
Above that was a short piece of steel pipe that I cut. (Part of it still in pics above)
From there what is underground is unknown. In the basement 1" galvanized pipe comes up through the floor and goes to a check valve. Above the check valve is a tee with the pressure switch and other fittings. Pressure tank is a fiberglass Wellmate with bladder. I did not see any air control stuff in the basement. My mom's house has that type system so I think I would have noticed it.
Did I miss anything important?
I have no idea if this system was working correctly in a long time.
Here is a list from bottom up.
Myers pump that had mud covering over half of the intake. I thought there was a check valve above it but could be wrong. I didn't look that close at it.
Then about 70' of 1" gray threaded pvc. Above that was the plastic tee with the air bleeder thing in it.
Above that was a short piece of steel pipe that I cut. (Part of it still in pics above)
From there what is underground is unknown. In the basement 1" galvanized pipe comes up through the floor and goes to a check valve. Above the check valve is a tee with the pressure switch and other fittings. Pressure tank is a fiberglass Wellmate with bladder. I did not see any air control stuff in the basement. My mom's house has that type system so I think I would have noticed it.
Did I miss anything important?
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