Need Help Selecting a Softener & Iron Removal System. Fleck 2510 vs 5900 vs Water-Right Impression?

Discussion in 'Water Softener Forum, Questions and Answers' started by J.A.R.V.I.S., Aug 12, 2019.

  1. J.A.R.V.I.S.

    J.A.R.V.I.S. New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2019
    Location:
    Michigan
    I came across this forum while researching water treatment options, and it looks like a great resource for home issues. Bookmarked!

    I just moved into a new-t0-us house (2005) with well water that needs to be addressed. Currently it just has a basic sediment filter, and a Clearwave electronic conditioner. I had the water tested and for the most part it seems good, but it's hard (241.43 mg/L) and has high iron (0.90 mg/L). The water smells like rust and stains the showers, toilets, dishwasher, etc. so getting that taken care of quickly is important. I like the concept of air-injection iron removers, as no chemicals are needed, so that's what I'm leaning toward. I've done a lot of reading and Fleck and Clack valves seem to be the best, but which variant is best for me? The Fleck 5600 is cheap and readily available but I think that's an older design and I'd rather pay more for better quality/durability/efficiency.

    I've gotten recommendations from a few different places and here are my three considerations at the moment:

    1) DIY: Fleck 2510AIO Iron Filter w/Vortech tank and Katalox Light media, & Fleck 2510SXT 48,000 Grain Water Softener.

    2) DIY: Pro-OX 5900-BT-AIR Iron Filter, & 5900-BT softener. This is a Chandler valve. How does it compare to Fleck?

    3) Have the local well drilling company supply and install Water-Right Impression Plus Series softener and an Air Iron (IMFE) filter. I believe Water-Right uses Clack valves.

    Is one of these better than the others? Should I consider a different product? What size(s) would you recommend? The 5900-BT Control Valve allows the air pocket to be replenished each night, WITHOUT having the iron filter go through a complete backwash. Is this a big deal (does the air need to be replenished each night)? Can the 2510 AIO do this? Is the 2510AIO metered?

    Household info: 2 adults, 3 young kids, maybe one more at some point. 3 bedroom, 2 bath but we plan to remodel the bonus room into a couple more bedrooms and one more bathroom. So max would be 6 people, 3 bathrooms.

    I'm all about DIY and very handy (from cars to carpentry, electronics, etc.) but I've never done plumbing work so I'd rather hire it out. However, going that route is a lot more expensive than the DIY options. I'm just very paranoid about water problems in the basement so having the pros do it and be on call in case of problems is appealing. I could be swayed either way, though. Knowing that this is a DIY forum, I think I know which way you'll steer me haha

    I look forward to hearing your thoughts. Any help is greatly appreciated!


    Water Test Results:

    Aluminum 3.57 ug/L
    ________________________
    Antimony 0.00 ug/L
    ________________________
    Barium 407.11 ug/L
    ________________________
    Berylium 0.00 ug/L
    ________________________
    Bicarbonate 275.85 mg/L
    ________________________
    Cadmium (Cd) 0.01 ug/L
    ________________________
    Calcium 51.91 mg/L
    ________________________
    Carbonate NM
    ________________________
    Chloride 5.09 mg/L
    ________________________
    Chromium 3.83 ug/L
    ________________________
    Color 18.63 color SM2120C, 21Ed
    ________________________
    Color after Acidification 2.34 color SM2120C,21Ed
    ________________________
    Conductivity 1301.10 microS/cm
    ________________________
    Copper (Cu) 0.0000 mg/L
    ________________________
    Est TDS By Conductivity 796.10 mg/L
    ________________________
    Fluoride 0.61 mg/L
    ________________________
    Hardness (CaCO3) 241.43 mg/L
    ________________________
    Iron (Fe) 0.90 mg/L
    ________________________
    Lead (Pb) 0.01 ug/L
    ________________________
    Magnesium 27.10 mg/L
    ________________________
    Manganese (Mn) 0.01 mg/L
    ________________________
    Nitrate as N 0.13 mg/L
    ________________________
    Nitrite as N 0.00 mg/L
    ________________________
    pH 7.92
    ________________________
    Potassium 2.52 mg/L
    ________________________
    Selenium (Se) 1.37 ug/L
    ________________________
    Silica 15.44 mg/L
    ________________________
    Silver (Ag) 0.00 ug/L
    ________________________
    Sodium 173.56 mg/L
    ________________________
    Strontium (Sr) 0.81 mg/L
    ________________________
    Sulfate 11.78 mg/L
    ________________________
    Tannins 0.40 mg/L
    ________________________
    Thallium (Tl) 0.00 ug/L
    ________________________
    Total Arsenic 0.00 ug/L
    ________________________
    Turbidity 4.56 NTU
    ________________________
    Turbidity Filtered 1.65 NTU
    ________________________
    Zinc (Zn) 0.00 mg/L
    ________________________
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
  2. rdsnake

    rdsnake New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2016
    Location:
    Illinois
    My water is similar as yours. I called out about 3 different company and had a bad luck with all 3. No one wanted to do a water test, rather just sell me something.

    Finally said screw it and did it myself. If you can solder wire, you can sweat pipes. I have a Fleck 2510AIO with KL media. Nothing but great things with that unit! The Air bubble deal oxides the iron from the water. Works like a charm.

    Purchased the unit from here:
    https://www.midatlanticwater.net/
     
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  4. J.A.R.V.I.S.

    J.A.R.V.I.S. New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2019
    Location:
    Michigan
    Awesome! Yeah I can solder electronics in my sleep so I'm sure I'd be good to sweat some copper after watching a YouTube video or two. Is the 2510AIO metered (backflushes based on usage)? I couldn't find that out. How did you run the drain? That's one area I'm unsure how to go about. My well pressure tank, etc. is in a "closet" that has no floor drains. It's about ~15' from the closest floor drain (HVAC room) and the sump pit, which are both in different rooms/directions. The basement is partially finished so would taking the drain line up and over the wall then down into the sump pit be the best option, or floor drain?

    MAW is actually where I'd purchase option #1 from. I kept it anonymous in case store links aren't allowed here. I was considering their softener and iron remover package: https://www.midatlanticwater.net/sh...er-combo-systems/well-pro-iron-removal-system
    I like that it includes upgrades like the KL media and stainless bypass valve.

    Thanks for the info, and encouragement!
     
  5. ditttohead

    ditttohead Water systems designer, R&D

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2012
    Occupation:
    Water systems designer, R&D, Technical Director
    Location:
    Ontario California
    Your test shows tannins. Does your water show any colors that might indicate tannins?

    If you have a local company that will do it at a reasonable price, that is always the best option since if it doesn't work, you have simple recourse especially if they say it will work.

    The 2510 is a great AIO option, as is the clack version.

    Since your water has hardness, tannins, and iron maybe an Ecomix might be a good option. Not exactly an efficient system design but they have been very reliable and is simple.
    https://view.publitas.com/impact-water-products/2018-catalog-final/page/34-35
     
  6. rdsnake

    rdsnake New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2016
    Location:
    Illinois
    My sump pump is next to my water treatment system so it's short run to drain it and let the pump remove it from the house. Prob not good for the pump life but I have 2 sumps so I'm not worried. I wouldn't hesitate to run the drain 15'.

    Negative on the metered blackflushes. It cycles every 3 days no matter how much water you use. I believe you can move the Day Override up or down but I left it at 3 and haven't had an issue.
     
  7. J.A.R.V.I.S.

    J.A.R.V.I.S. New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2019
    Location:
    Michigan
    In small volumes, like a glass or large mixing bowl, it appears clear. However when the tub is filled it looks greenish-blue. The water test showed 0 copper (I was worried about corrosion originally), so what else would cause this color?



    I measured my well pump flow rate and got the following:
    Drawdown: 11.3 gallons
    Pump run time: 32 seconds
    So about 21 gpm
     
  8. rayjustray

    rayjustray New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2019
    Location:
    Maryland
    I've been reading up because I'm in the same situation, and I just had a chat with Pentair about their valves. He stated the 2510 is their most robust model, but unless the water has high iron content, the 5800/5600 series should be just fine, and the 5600 series can only backwash up to a 10" tank. Because I'm planning on 12" tanks, he suggested I go with at least the 5800, so I'm going to get the 5810SXT with the 1" connectors to ensure my tanks (neutralizer for 5.3 pH water and softener) get good flow.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2019
  9. Reach4

    Reach4 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2013
    Location:
    IL
    A 12 inch water softener only needs a 3.5 GPM backwash. A 14 inch softener needs 5 GPM. A 5600 can do that fine. However the 5810 has the advantage that it refills the brine tank with soft water. A 5600 can only handle about 5 to 7 gpm, it would not be suitable for a 12 inch backwashing filter.

    If you stand near the 5810 when it starts to regen, it will startle you. Mine is out of earshot in the middle of the night. It switches very quickly. My 5600SXT filter starts softly and turns off softly.

    Softeners have demand meters. Filters use timed regeneration. Most filters have a different piston that does not support sucking in a solution. Mine has the softener piston and the it injector to suck a chlorine solution in from a solution tank during regeneration. The AIO filters are a different thing again.
     
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