Move sink drain into exterior wall?

Users who are viewing this thread

Nicho247

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Mt. Juliet, Tennessee
Hello All -

Homeowner/DIYer posting here.

I need guidance on if I can move this drain pipe for a kitchen sink and what my options are (in Tennessee). I'd like it go be hidden in the wall if possible.

It currently comes up through the floor as a 2" PVC pipe. My thought was in the crawlspace, reduce it from 2" to 1 1/2", come up with a 90 degree elbow (or some angle to navigate/clear the cinderblocks. Afterwards, come straight up through the wall/horizontal stud, through the outlet box, 90 degree elbow and then out into the kitchen. Is this possible? If not, what are your thoughts/alternatives? My main concern is (1) fulfilling code requirements with the hole in the stud, (2) is reducing to 1 1/2 " a big deal?, (3) is the outlet box a good idea/worth it (vs still coming up through wall w/o outlet).

View attachment 78830
 

WorthFlorida

The wife is still training me.
Messages
5,057
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
If you are worried about cutting the wall stud, stud shoes are made just for this problem. This site has most types made. https://www.fastenersplus.com/collections/stud-shoes

As breplum suggest, stay with 2" all the way. If you come up from the crawl space inside the cabinet, be careful that you do not create an S trap. You'll probably be more than 5 feet from the existing vent, an AAV can be used under the sink. Don't forget that 1/4" slope will be needed and a 2" PVC pipe needs to be supported every 4 feet horizontally. Tennessee is IPC code and Air Admittance Valves are allowed.


1667340401576.png
 

Nicho247

New Member
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Mt. Juliet, Tennessee
Always stick with 2". For getting over foundation, two 45s often work.
your attachment is not the right image
Hello Breplum - thank you for pointing out that the attachment is wrong. I don't know what that photo is. I didn't upload that nor own the photo. Strange. I have uploaded a new attachment and will check that it is what I am uploading.

What is your rationale/wisdom on why to stay with 2"? I don't disagree, just am unsure what is wrong with 1 1/2"? Is it that this may introduce slow drainage issues or something else?

If you are worried about cutting the wall stud, stud shoes are made just for this problem. This site has most types made. https://www.fastenersplus.com/collections/stud-shoes

As breplum suggest, stay with 2" all the way. If you come up from the crawl space inside the cabinet, be careful that you do not create an S trap. You'll probably be more than 5 feet from the existing vent, an AAV can be used under the sink. Don't forget that 1/4" slope will be needed and a 2" PVC pipe needs to be supported every 4 feet horizontally. Tennessee is IPC code and Air Admittance Valves are allowed.


View attachment 87656

Hello WorthFlorida - thank you for your guidance. Seems you concur with Breplum. Any further elaboration on the 2" vs 1 1/2"? Is this simplicity/standard in all homes?

Is a stud shoe necessary on a horizontal stud? All of the examples I have seen were on vertical studs. Never used one, but looks very simple & straight forward. Seems like a why not? Note, on the S trap, AAV, and slope. I am not planning on modifying the current slope and this is going up, so slope will be maintained/exceeded. After coming out of the wall, will do a standard P trap & AAV. An AAV was installed in the sink that I removed.

IMG_20221101_113030761redlines2_ImageSaizeReducer.jpg
 

WorthFlorida

The wife is still training me.
Messages
5,057
Reaction score
806
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
A horizontal beam (not stud) is a floor joist. The exterior wall studs sit on a "sill plate". It doesn't look like you can notch unto it since there is cement block.

A kitchen sink trap is 1.5", drain pipe can be 1.5 but there is no difference in cost and with a double bowl sink, or a single bowl 30" wide plus add a disposal, 2" is always preferred. You may need to add a clean out under the sink. It is usually above the trap drain.

As breplum also suggest, use two 45º to get above the the cement block. At the wall itself you will need a 90º elbow but be sure is it a "seep" elbow. If you are going with a granite or quartz, you can bump out the sink cabinet 2.5" to keep the pipe behind the cabinet. It can make the job look real good. If you are coming up inside the cabinet, place it near the corners to allow easier setup for the sink trap(s). It will also allow little or no interference for a pull down type faucet. They all use a weight on the hose and a center drain connection it is always in the way. There are dozens of configurations for kitchen sink traps especially with double bowl sinks. Search this topic to see what will fit best for your install.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index....backs-up-drains-very-slow.101091/#post-727441

Screen Shot 2022-11-02 at 11.41.25 AM.jpg


1667402536291.png
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks