Wren
Member
I'm getting ready to install a new heat pump water heater in our basement and need to make a few modifications for the condensate drain, etc. I'm also planning on a complete repipe of the house in PEX A piping.
The plumbing is contained inside a plumbing wall. Because of some remodeling upstairs, I would like to add another wall beside it that would be load bearing. It's not practical to convert the plumbing wall to load bearing as it's been cut up quite a bit from the plumbing that was installed in the early '60's.
To get it outside the new wall, I'll need to move the washer standpipe about 7" as it never was in a washer box, just a recessed area inside the plumbing wall. If it can be moved over using a wye and elbows as in the mock up, that would be preferable, but if I have to replace the galvanized standpipe I suppose it could be done. I have some Kano Kroil, a torch, and a couple of large pipe wrenches.
I'm not certain if it would be better to change out just the trap arm, or change everything, standpipe, trap, and weir. What's the best approach?
From my understanding, as long as the standpipe is under 42" long, I can add a wye and have both the washer drain and condensate drain on the same standpipe. Currently the standpipe/trap weir is 1-1/2". I understand that the current IPC calls for a 2" standpipe, but upsizing the standpipe and/or trap and weir wouldn't be very practical (but not impossible) as all of those components are iron. The trap arm for is also 1-1/2" going into a 3" stack.
I mocked it up in the photo with 2" PVC, which from what I read be better than 1-1/2" pipe, but I've also read that a reduction in drain size isn't permitted. I could also make it work with 1-1/2" pipe. Either way, I could get the washer drain located where I want. I would use two separate small drain boxes for the drains. The mock up isn't exactly how it would be in terms of height, etc., but is a good representation.
I had considered adding one of those air gap funnels to a regular washer box, but I'm not certain the boxes are tall enough to get my drain hose in after adding the funnel. The double drain/box seemed like the best option for me. Either way, the top of the stand pipe needs to be moved about 7 inches horizontally.
My washer is an old-style toploader so I don't have a super fast pump like newer front load machines. I've never had the standpipe backup in 12 years of being in this house.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
M
The plumbing is contained inside a plumbing wall. Because of some remodeling upstairs, I would like to add another wall beside it that would be load bearing. It's not practical to convert the plumbing wall to load bearing as it's been cut up quite a bit from the plumbing that was installed in the early '60's.
To get it outside the new wall, I'll need to move the washer standpipe about 7" as it never was in a washer box, just a recessed area inside the plumbing wall. If it can be moved over using a wye and elbows as in the mock up, that would be preferable, but if I have to replace the galvanized standpipe I suppose it could be done. I have some Kano Kroil, a torch, and a couple of large pipe wrenches.
I'm not certain if it would be better to change out just the trap arm, or change everything, standpipe, trap, and weir. What's the best approach?
From my understanding, as long as the standpipe is under 42" long, I can add a wye and have both the washer drain and condensate drain on the same standpipe. Currently the standpipe/trap weir is 1-1/2". I understand that the current IPC calls for a 2" standpipe, but upsizing the standpipe and/or trap and weir wouldn't be very practical (but not impossible) as all of those components are iron. The trap arm for is also 1-1/2" going into a 3" stack.
I mocked it up in the photo with 2" PVC, which from what I read be better than 1-1/2" pipe, but I've also read that a reduction in drain size isn't permitted. I could also make it work with 1-1/2" pipe. Either way, I could get the washer drain located where I want. I would use two separate small drain boxes for the drains. The mock up isn't exactly how it would be in terms of height, etc., but is a good representation.
I had considered adding one of those air gap funnels to a regular washer box, but I'm not certain the boxes are tall enough to get my drain hose in after adding the funnel. The double drain/box seemed like the best option for me. Either way, the top of the stand pipe needs to be moved about 7 inches horizontally.
My washer is an old-style toploader so I don't have a super fast pump like newer front load machines. I've never had the standpipe backup in 12 years of being in this house.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
M
