Looking for obscure adapter

So I have a 1.5” slip connection on one side and would love to connect it to a 2” female threaded. Space is super tight so ideally looking to do it in a single adapter but can use two provided they are low profile, any ideas?

 

What's in the second picture, that looks like an electrical LB?

I believe that a 1.5" SJ nut has threads compatible with 1.5" NPT threads. So what you need is a 1.5" x 2" reducing nipple. Maybe something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/1-1-MNPT-Reducing-Nipple-SCH/dp/B007IAMOB8

Cheers, Wayne

 

Maybe a 2" x 1-1/2" NPT Bushing with a MIP 1-1/2 trap adapter in it?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Merit-Brass-K414-3224-T304-2-x-1-1-2-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Bushing
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Elkhart-46142-1-1-2-Copper-DWV-Male-Trap-Adapter-M-x-Slip-Joint

 

Can I mix and match all these with ABS?

 

That looks promising but I think wrong material - won’t glue with abs/pvc

 

With threads, yes.

 

Sorry, both ends are threaded, why would you use any glue on this part?

Cheers, Wayne

 

I’m not thinking straight, lol. Is stainless ok in a dwv application or will it eventually rust through?

 

What is wrong with the threaded adapter Wayne first proposed? looks like a single fitting.

What is that gray fitting anyway? Some form of trap?

 

I am not a pro. I expect stainless is good for DWV.

The reducing nipple may be the better choice. Put washer and nut on that. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2698C/205154062


https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-2-x-1-12-mnpt-reducing-nipple-sch-80-rn200-150/i/G3452626/
https://www.sprayerdepot.com/products/2-x-1-1-2-poly-reducing-nipple

One concern is if the 1.5 inch slip joint pipe would fit into the schedule 80 1.5 side. Schedule 80 pvc pipe average ID is 1.500. Using a 1.25 inch trap would remove that concern.

 

Please provide an overview of what the job is.

Assume you are trying to connect the white tailpiece to the black ABS drain behind it with a trap?

 

i need a super low profile P-trap (every inch lowers the ceiling of the family room). I bought this one and am trying to connect it to a bathtub drain:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VV4PLF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The plumbing code requires the trap to have a minimum 2" seal depth. That's the height of water from the top of the lowest cross section to the trap weir, aka the bottom of the outlet of the trap.

Not sure what type of equipment that part is designed for, but if it doesn't have a 2" trap seal depth, you can't use it for a bathtub trap.

For a 1-1/2" pipe, a regular solvent weld trap comes within 1/2" of the minimum possible height that complies with the trap seal depth requirement. Maybe with an unusual cross section at the bottom of the trap you could squeeze another 1/2" out of it. So the most you are going to gain with something non-standard that still complies with the plumbing code is 1".

Cheers, Wayne

 

That trap is designed to be part of a fixture, not part of the house drain system. It and others like it are not designed to be snaked so they need to be accessible to be removed when a clog occurs.

How far are you from the wall? A bulkhead or tray ceiling might be needed. A creative 45º elbow on the end of the tailpiece could get it closer to the wall.

 

If the SJ nut is going to end up in a concealed location it would not meet the UPC and you should use a solvent weld trap rather than one with a union.

 

Looking up some weird shower for a customer, Hansgrohe makes the perfect trap for this.. probably not legal or findable in the US, but it exists.

 

Ha, great minds!

 

So are you going to leave an access panel in your ceiling?

Agree with Terry--you need to replace the san-tee and white 90 with a wye and a 45.

Cheers, Wayne

 

It looks to me like if the san tee was replaced with a wye that the trap could be piped directly into it without a 45 or 90.

Will a snake go through that trap?

I wouldn't want those sj connections in my ceiling.