JWBlue
New Member
Plumber came to drain the hot water heater.
Now we barely get hot water.
Now we barely get hot water.
Hot water heater not working well after draining
- Thread starter JWBlue
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Is this electric or gas?
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JWBlue
New Member
Look at the dial for the temperature setting. He may have turned it down low during the flushing and then didn't rotate it back up again.
On this one "HOT" is 120 degrees, or close to that.
On this one "HOT" is 120 degrees, or close to that.
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JWBlue
New Member
I could swear it was on the "Low" setting before the plumber came but not sure that makes sense. Plumber said he didn't touch the dial which I do not know if is true or not. It was on "Low" when he left.
Turned it up to "A" this morning. Had no hot water for a morning and afternoon shower. Just turned it up to "B". According to manual A is
125°.
What is standard procedure for draining a hot water heater? Manual for hot what heater says to turn off power.
I asked the plumber this and he says it is not necessary.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Your gas water heater has " POWER" electricity going to it? It has no pilot? get a bit of basic info please if its a regular gas water heater it wont have power going to it. but a normal gas heater has a pilot maybe pilot is out .
JWBlue
New Member
It is gas.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
is pilot lit ? im guessing not Light pilot! I think it got turned off and wasent re lit
I did searching. http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Honeywell-gas-valve-error-codes.pdf says
It seemed to say that unit has an light that is supposed to glow in normal service, and to blink in failure modes.
There are similar-looking units with a piezo ignitor button instead of the electrical connector on the lower left where the electrical connector is in this photo. I suspect this has a power path that might be internal from the area of the 115 vac power vent blower atop the WH.
I did searching. This looks similar to http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Honeywell-gas-valve-error-codes.pdf which says "Power supply Dedicated 115VAC, 60 Hz, 15A" on page 6.
It seemed to say that unit has an light that is supposed to glow in normal service, and to blink in failure modes.
There are similar-looking units with a piezo ignitor button instead of the electrical connector on the lower left where the electrical connector is in this photo. I suspect this has a power path that might be internal from the area of the 115 vac power vent blower atop the WH.
I did searching. This looks similar to http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Honeywell-gas-valve-error-codes.pdf which says "Power supply Dedicated 115VAC, 60 Hz, 15A" on page 6.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I missed something? How did you guys figure out which water heater and controls he has? It seems Terry posted a picture of a water heater but no indication that its anything but a random gas water heater , causing me to be at a loss. Unless its an old gas water heater the status light should blink if its lit. But I think the homeowner has already called a plumber to fix it and dosent need help just too busy to let us know
JWBlue
New Member
We do not own the Honeywell.
We are getting hot water but it is slower to become hot. Does that mean it is not a pilot light issue?
Does increasing the temperature on the dial also shorten the time to get hot water?
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We should try guessing what you do own.
JWBlue
New Member
We should try guessing what you do own.
Rheem Model SG40T12AVG00
https://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=AP13204-4%20GE%20Residential%20GAS%20FVIR.pdf tells how to light the pilot light, if that ever becomes necessary.
However if you are getting some hot water, the pilot light is lit.
Make sure the valve feeding the cold into the WH is fully open.
Turn up the temperature dial if you still don't get hot-enough water.
However if you are getting some hot water, the pilot light is lit.
Make sure the valve feeding the cold into the WH is fully open.
Turn up the temperature dial if you still don't get hot-enough water.
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Honeywell is the manufacturer of the gas control valve, not the water heater. Many water heater brands utilize Honeywell controls.
The control valve shown in Terry's photo specifies 24 volts so that valve will be externally powered and likely interconnected to a forced draft fan through the wiring seen at the bottom of the control valve.
A non externally powered control valve will commonly utilize millivolts for power which will be supplied by a standing pilot light (always on) that will heat a thermocouple which will convert heat energy to electrical energy. Millivolt controls do not incorporate indicator lights.
The fact that your WH continues to heat water to any temperature confirms the burner is operating which further confirms a functioning igniter or pilot light.
You said in post #5 that the temperature setting was at 'Low' after the Plumber attended, which is likely the lowest setting possible. Since the actual hot water temperature was lower after the Plumber worked on the WH, he/she obviously had turned down the temperature setting even if not recalling doing so.
If you raised the temperature setting to 'B' as stated in post #5, then the water temperature should have been significantly hotter after the 40 gallons of water contained was permitted sufficient opportunity to increase in temperature to where the WH burner was shut off by the control valve.
The control valve shown in Terry's photo specifies 24 volts so that valve will be externally powered and likely interconnected to a forced draft fan through the wiring seen at the bottom of the control valve.
A non externally powered control valve will commonly utilize millivolts for power which will be supplied by a standing pilot light (always on) that will heat a thermocouple which will convert heat energy to electrical energy. Millivolt controls do not incorporate indicator lights.
The fact that your WH continues to heat water to any temperature confirms the burner is operating which further confirms a functioning igniter or pilot light.
You said in post #5 that the temperature setting was at 'Low' after the Plumber attended, which is likely the lowest setting possible. Since the actual hot water temperature was lower after the Plumber worked on the WH, he/she obviously had turned down the temperature setting even if not recalling doing so.
If you raised the temperature setting to 'B' as stated in post #5, then the water temperature should have been significantly hotter after the 40 gallons of water contained was permitted sufficient opportunity to increase in temperature to where the WH burner was shut off by the control valve.
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Jeff H Young
In the Trades
JW, I suggest you try to learn a little about your house the questions we have to ask is a bit much. try turning your water heater hotter ! read your owners manual!
Im guessing you already had a water heater issue and you had someone service it. because so few people have that done. and a very unknoledgeable person usualy dosent even know a water heater can be drained
Im guessing you already had a water heater issue and you had someone service it. because so few people have that done. and a very unknoledgeable person usualy dosent even know a water heater can be drained
Bannerman
Well-Known Member
Would your hot water system by chance happen to incorporate a recirculation pump?
If a recirculation pump is shut-off, hot water could be slower than usual to arrive at faucets even when the water quantity and temperature within the WH is more than sufficient.
JWBlue
New Member
I read the manual. I do not see that mentioned. Could it be called something else?
Below is the manual.
https://products.geappliances.com/M...DF&Name=AP13204-4 GE Residential GAS FVIR.pdf
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